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No, you don't have to pump it down. It will help a little but won't affect the system appreciably. I had a car that leaked out in 2003 and I recharged it yearly until I finally fixed it in 2012. Every year it completely emptied. Guess what that car still has the original compressor on it (21 years old with 190k miles). System blew cold air measured around 40-42*F. Good enough.
Two cans of refrigerant are around $12, and 30 mins of your time. Replacing my evaporator was a full two day job, shop labor time is 12 hours alone. To pay someone which most people would it was about a $1k repair. Let's see, $12/yr or > $1000. Hmm easy choice. I pumped it down using an air vac, when I finally fixed it right not even an electric pump, still blows super cold air, in the mid 30's at highway speed. The dryer took care of what little moisture remained.
Dont get me wrong. It is great you can do it yourself.
However you are dead wrong.
The difference is a evaporator temp of 20 degrees F if evacuated or a evaporator temperature of 40 degrees F if not. If there is still refrigerant in the system evac is not necessary. If there isnt refrigerant in the system, then that means there is AIR in the system. You need to pump it all out.
Google partial pressures. One of those pesky laws of physics.
Which do you really think works better?
Its a very common mistake and problem in auto air.
My car leaks enough Freon to quit cooling right about once a month. A shop wanted $600 to repair it. I recharge once a month with a $4.88 can of Freon. Do the math.
OP here. I jumped the relay, and the compressor will come on. Tomorrow I think I will give it a shot and recharge the r-134a refrigerant.
Hopefully I can find one without any sealer in it. Any recommendations on which brand to buy??
WHOA! YOU MAY BE RUNNING A COMPRESSOR DRY!
If I understand right, you lied to the compressor about having enough freon. You told it there was enough, so it turned on. Are you sure you want to do that?
I'm glad that you compressor clutch is working and that the compressor is not locked up, and so forth, but I hope you are not driving around with your jumper in.
Turn the car off, let things settle down and then attach a gauge to the system. If there is freon in the system, then the pressure should read about the same as air temperature today. 80 - 90 pounds.
Do you have a gauge? Even just one low-side gauge will be enough for this test.
No, not running the compressor with the jumper in. Just did that for a couple of seconds to make sure that the compressor wasn't locked up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Listener2307
WHOA! YOU MAY BE RUNNING A COMPRESSOR DRY!
If I understand right, you lied to the compressor about having enough freon. You told it there was enough, so it turned on. Are you sure you want to do that?
I'm glad that you compressor clutch is working and that the compressor is not locked up, and so forth, but I hope you are not driving around with your jumper in.
Turn the car off, let things settle down and then attach a gauge to the system. If there is freon in the system, then the pressure should read about the same as air temperature today. 80 - 90 pounds.
Do you have a gauge? Even just one low-side gauge will be enough for this test.
If you have a can tap ($6) and a gauge set ($40-$50 or borrowed) you can buy the cheapest cans of 134a you can find, typically at Wal-Mart for around $7 or so I'd guess.
Otherwise you'll need a set that includes the can tap (or one already attached) with a hose to the LP hookup. I'd recommend one with a primitive gauge just so you can see what you're looking at.
Dont get me wrong. It is great you can do it yourself.
However you are dead wrong.
The difference is a evaporator temp of 20 degrees F if evacuated or a evaporator temperature of 40 degrees F if not. If there is still refrigerant in the system evac is not necessary. If there isnt refrigerant in the system, then that means there is AIR in the system. You need to pump it all out.
Google partial pressures. One of those pesky laws of physics.
Which do you really think works better?
Its a very common mistake and problem in auto air.
I'm not disputing what the 'correct' way to do it is. Yes, it's better to suck out the air. Is it absolutely needed? No. Mechanics like to pretend this is rocket science...news flash...it's not!
I'm not disputing what the 'correct' way to do it is. Yes, it's better to suck out the air. Is it absolutely needed? No. Mechanics like to pretend this is rocket science...news flash...it's not!
No but it is physics.
You seem like someone who likes to do this sort of thing. Do yourself a favor and learn how to do it correctly. You and whoever you do things for will appreciate it.
I have a gauge w/ tap that I have used in the past on another car. Advance Auto has the r134a, 12 oz cans without sealer for $9.99. Hopefully I can get around to doing it tomorrow. Thanks.
Perfecto. They usually have the 12 oz cans at wallmart for $5.00 or so.
Dont use the sealer yet.
It really easy to find leaks these days. They are usually in the tube connections. It is just a little usually 3/8" fuel line connector tool and some swearing to get them apart. 2nd source is the shaft seal on the compressor. But generally when the shaft seal is bad it is because there is little oil in the system. You will need to dissemble everything and drain what ever oil is in the compressor and put new oil in to do it right.
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