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Old 06-23-2016, 06:38 PM
 
Location: San Diego
50,298 posts, read 47,056,299 times
Reputation: 34080

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Besides extra for an oil change my oil burner costs less than my Xterra based on price of fuel alone. It also gets the best mileage at 20 mpg.
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Old 06-24-2016, 06:47 AM
 
Location: Pikesville, MD
2,983 posts, read 3,093,054 times
Reputation: 4552
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AngryTaxPayer View Post
Besides extra for an oil change my oil burner costs less than my Xterra based on price of fuel alone. It also gets the best mileage at 20 mpg.

My turbo diesel at it's best got 14 mpg. My Suburban at it's best gets 14 mpg. Any diesel that gets better fuel mileage also costs a ton more (or is a beat up, bare bones work truck). I had to deal with PMD issues, lift pump issues, injection issues and more on a diesel that only had 150k on it. And as I said, it didn't have the power and torque of my 8.1 liter gasser.


The later Duramaxes and 6.7 Fords are better, but you're going to pay for it. And Cummins are great, but they are in Dodges and in the price range I'm talking about are beat or falling apart around the engine. If I could get a Cummins engine with an Allison transmission in a Ford chassis, I'd be set. But I'm not going to build that.
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Old 06-24-2016, 06:57 AM
 
Location: San Diego
50,298 posts, read 47,056,299 times
Reputation: 34080
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiffer E38 View Post
My turbo diesel at it's best got 14 mpg. My Suburban at it's best gets 14 mpg. Any diesel that gets better fuel mileage also costs a ton more (or is a beat up, bare bones work truck). I had to deal with PMD issues, lift pump issues, injection issues and more on a diesel that only had 150k on it. And as I said, it didn't have the power and torque of my 8.1 liter gasser.


The later Duramaxes and 6.7 Fords are better, but you're going to pay for it. And Cummins are great, but they are in Dodges and in the price range I'm talking about are beat or falling apart around the engine. If I could get a Cummins engine with an Allison transmission in a Ford chassis, I'd be set. But I'm not going to build that.
I've got the 7.3 and my truck is pretty cherry with all the update kits. I paid 16K for it in 2007 with 100k on it. I see well taken care of 7.3s plenty still for sale. I know of 2 right off the top of my head under 20K.

The mid year Ford motors had a lot of problems.I'd never buy a new truck no matter the make and I'll probably never sell my 2002. Why would I. 20 mpg and will tow anything legal to be on the road. Original injectors, pumps etc.
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:35 AM
 
Location: Huntsville
6,009 posts, read 6,668,923 times
Reputation: 7042
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiffer E38 View Post
My turbo diesel at it's best got 14 mpg. My Suburban at it's best gets 14 mpg. Any diesel that gets better fuel mileage also costs a ton more (or is a beat up, bare bones work truck). I had to deal with PMD issues, lift pump issues, injection issues and more on a diesel that only had 150k on it. And as I said, it didn't have the power and torque of my 8.1 liter gasser.


The later Duramaxes and 6.7 Fords are better, but you're going to pay for it. And Cummins are great, but they are in Dodges and in the price range I'm talking about are beat or falling apart around the engine. If I could get a Cummins engine with an Allison transmission in a Ford chassis, I'd be set. But I'm not going to build that.


Unless you had an old diesel, I can't really see how the gas burner can out pull it. It certainly won't out pull any diesels I've owned. The 8.1 is a solid platform, but won't have the longevity of a diesel. I do wish I could buy a Ford with a Cummins/Allison combo. For about $12k one could swap it all in, but I'm not going that route either. My 6.4 wasn't beat up at all and consistently got 21.4 mpg with the EGR delete and a good tune. It even got that when it blew the second set of head gaskets (thanks to a dealer who didn't think it was necessary to deck the heads when replacing them the first time.) I've never had an injector, lift pump, or PMD issue on any of my diesels. But, I am very strict on maintenance and keeping additives in the fuel to keep the lubricity up and keep the fuel clean.


I switched to a Cummins because I didn't want to deal with potential engine issues. Granted, the Ram isn't as nice as the Ford was but it gets the job done and is much nicer than I expected it to be. Personally I prefer powertrain reliability over creature comforts. Despite that, the Ram is a much more comfortable truck than I anticipated.


8.1 Vortec specs - 330hp/450 lb-ft torque


7.3 Powerstroke specs - 210 hp/425 lb-ft torque
6.0 Powerstroke specs - 325 hp/560 lb-ft torque
6.4 Powerstroke specs - 350 hp/650 lb-ft torque
6.7 Powerstroke specs - 440 hp/860 lb-ft torque




6.6 Duramax LB7 (01-04) specs - 300 hp/520 lb-ft torque
6.6 Duramax LLY (04-06) specs - 310 hp/605 lb-ft torque
6.6 Duramax LBZ (06-07) specs - 360hp/650 lb-ft torque
6.6 Duramax LMM(07.5-10) specs - 365hp/660 lb-ft torque


5.9 Cummins 12valve(89-95) specs - 160hp/400 lb-ft torque
5.9 Cummins 12 valve (96-98) specs - 215hp/440 lb-ft torque
5.9 Cummins 24 valve (98-03) specs - 235hp/460 lb-ft torque
5.9 Cummins 24 valve (04-07) specs - 325hp/610 lb-ft torque
6.7 Cummins (07.5-10) specs - 350hp/650 lb-ft torque
6.7 Cummins (11-15) specs - 350hp/850 lb-ft torque






As for not riding your family around in a work truck... that's a personal preference. As a pulling truck, you can find a work truck that is basically an XLT or SLT for a decent price with good miles. The only things it won't come with are leather or navigation. Depending on one's budget, that might be all they can afford and then it comes down to a decision to buy a gas burner for less with more creature comforts, or buy a diesel for longevity that may not quite have everything you want at the time. But all of that can be added for far cheaper than buying a loaded version.
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:38 AM
 
Location: San Diego
50,298 posts, read 47,056,299 times
Reputation: 34080
Quote:
Originally Posted by mortpes View Post
Use commercial anti sway hitch expensive but you can do more with less vehicle.
It should be a fine to tow without them. That's just crazy not too have them.
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:42 AM
 
Location: San Diego
50,298 posts, read 47,056,299 times
Reputation: 34080
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nlambert View Post
Unless you had an old diesel, I can't really see how the gas burner can out pull it. It certainly won't out pull any diesels I've owned. The 8.1 is a solid platform, but won't have the longevity of a diesel. I do wish I could buy a Ford with a Cummins/Allison combo. For about $12k one could swap it all in, but I'm not going that route either. My 6.4 wasn't beat up at all and consistently got 21.4 mpg with the EGR delete and a good tune. It even got that when it blew the second set of head gaskets (thanks to a dealer who didn't think it was necessary to deck the heads when replacing them the first time.) I've never had an injector, lift pump, or PMD issue on any of my diesels. But, I am very strict on maintenance and keeping additives in the fuel to keep the lubricity up and keep the fuel clean.


I switched to a Cummins because I didn't want to deal with potential engine issues. Granted, the Ram isn't as nice as the Ford was but it gets the job done and is much nicer than I expected it to be. Personally I prefer powertrain reliability over creature comforts. Despite that, the Ram is a much more comfortable truck than I anticipated.


8.1 Vortec specs - 330hp/450 lb-ft torque


7.3 Powerstroke specs - 210 hp/425 lb-ft torque
6.0 Powerstroke specs - 325 hp/560 lb-ft torque
6.4 Powerstroke specs - 350 hp/650 lb-ft torque
6.7 Powerstroke specs - 440 hp/860 lb-ft torque




6.6 Duramax LB7 (01-04) specs - 300 hp/520 lb-ft torque
6.6 Duramax LLY (04-06) specs - 310 hp/605 lb-ft torque
6.6 Duramax LBZ (06-07) specs - 360hp/650 lb-ft torque
6.6 Duramax LMM(07.5-10) specs - 365hp/660 lb-ft torque


5.9 Cummins 12valve(89-95) specs - 160hp/400 lb-ft torque
5.9 Cummins 12 valve (96-98) specs - 215hp/440 lb-ft torque
5.9 Cummins 24 valve (98-03) specs - 235hp/460 lb-ft torque
5.9 Cummins 24 valve (04-07) specs - 325hp/610 lb-ft torque
6.7 Cummins (07.5-10) specs - 350hp/650 lb-ft torque
6.7 Cummins (11-15) specs - 350hp/850 lb-ft torque






As for not riding your family around in a work truck... that's a personal preference. As a pulling truck, you can find a work truck that is basically an XLT or SLT for a decent price with good miles. The only things it won't come with are leather or navigation. Depending on one's budget, that might be all they can afford and then it comes down to a decision to buy a gas burner for less with more creature comforts, or buy a diesel for longevity that may not quite have everything you want at the time. But all of that can be added for far cheaper than buying a loaded version.
You can program any of those oil burners to insane torque.
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:58 AM
 
Location: Huntsville
6,009 posts, read 6,668,923 times
Reputation: 7042
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AngryTaxPayer View Post
You can program any of those oil burners to insane torque.


Yep. My 6.4 Powerstroke was deleted and tuned. It made 620 HP/1103 lb-ft of torque. I got 21.4 mpg mixed driving with a 40 gallon fuel cell in the bed. Loaded with a trailer and 3k lbs of weight I routinely got 17.5-18mpg.
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:11 AM
 
Location: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
11,155 posts, read 29,323,086 times
Reputation: 5480
One thing i would take the GM/Chevy Big Block 8.1L V-8 over Fords Triton 6.8L V-10 but Ford resolve that by adding/offering the 6.2L SOHC Boss V-8 in later generation(s) replacing the Triton 5.4L V-8 and Triton V-10 Gassers in their Super Duty truck lineup
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:16 PM
 
1,279 posts, read 1,836,727 times
Reputation: 1710
Such a variety of answers, yet the one thing I see is that nothing below a 3/4 ton truck is consistent with most posts? Also, keep in mind I may not be traveling the globe with this setup. Primarily I'm looking at setting it up on some land and having the option to travel with it. If traveling I suspect a heavier duty rig is called for? Also, I mentioned UP to 30' trailer. Most I've looked at were 25' so I added some buffer.
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Old 06-30-2016, 01:27 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
17,216 posts, read 57,085,908 times
Reputation: 18579
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tac-Sea View Post
Such a variety of answers, yet the one thing I see is that nothing below a 3/4 ton truck is consistent with most posts? Also, keep in mind I may not be traveling the globe with this setup. Primarily I'm looking at setting it up on some land and having the option to travel with it. If traveling I suspect a heavier duty rig is called for? Also, I mentioned UP to 30' trailer. Most I've looked at were 25' so I added some buffer.
Well, if you buy a rig that is a bit overkill, you will be fine. If you buy a rig that is barely able to do the job, you will have a bad towing experience. Most of us local guys are aware that with you being in Seattle, you will probably be heading into the mountains at least part of the time. Having a very adequate tow vehicle will make your trips more enjoyable. You won't miss the couple grand more you spend for such.

The length of the trailer is not as important as it's weight.

3/4 ton and up trucks have floating axles like an 18-wheeler's tractor. 1/2 ton trucks have what is essentially a car rear axle. That's not to say that a well outfitted 1/2 ton can't do some towing and hauling, but a stripper one is pretty limited.
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