Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Are both the Pilot and the DWS good in snow and ice? Michelin and Continental are both top choices in my book. I have an "all weather" General tire right now that I have to take off in winter and put on the stock wheels w/Firestone Firehawk tires because that "all weather" General tire is literally hazardous to my health. How it got rated AW is beyond me, it is awful in snow.
It was built to be all weather, that's why. Some of these tire types make no sense, or might as well be the same thing
All weather
All season
All Terrain
Mud & Snow
Wet/dry
I like a dedicated tire, not one that kinda does multipurpose and fails at it, at the same time.
3 years is pretty good for such a high performing tire. But not 15k. All tires are a trade off of traction/noise/wear.
Uneven wear is more of an alignment/inflation problem.
I'd like to add rolling resistance to the trade off. Especially in Europe they are pushing towards low rolling resistance tires to reduce fuel consumption.
Different tires require different air pressures and you have to keep them to the proper psi depending on air temp. You don't just set them to a psi one day and they are good year round. I have found that I have to run 3 or so higher psi in some brand/models of tires than I have to in others and I add air to keep the psi up as the temps get cooler and let air out as it gets warmer going into summer.
The tread life depends on a lot of factors but if both edges are wearing quicker than the center, you are most likely running tool low of air pressure and need to go up 2 to 3 psi but it could be worn suspension components such as ball joints too. It depends on the performance level of the car and how aggressive you drive it too of course. I have had tires last over 50,000 miles on my truck but only 5,000 on the vette. lol
I have DWS now and they've been great - personally don't know how long they'll last. But I will say I came from some Toyo Proxes STII for my SUV and while they had a tremendous tread life, they began to exhibit dry-rot after 5 years which was another reason to have to replace them, so tread-life isn't the only factor.
What kind of car is this? If you are wearing the inner edges, then there might be some suspension issues that need tackling. Usually it's from excessive toe. Sidewall bubbles are sometimes manufacturing defects, but can also occur from sidewall damage from hitting a pothole VERY hard, especially with short profile sidewalls. Are both edges worn (sign of underinflated tires) or just one side (sign of toe out of spec)? I've seen cases where control arm bushings fail causing the two tires to point in slightly. Alignment shop never catches this and adjusts alignment to spec, but the worn bushings cause it to drift.
My point is, with abnormal wear going on with your tires, I'd suspect tire pressure or alignment issues due to possible worn suspension components.
I have a 2011 Mazda 3 HB. The tires are 2015/50/17.
My bf looked at my tires and said it looks like underinflation . I hope not because they're somewhat low-profile and I can easily tell when they are low (and usually they're about 1-2 psi low), so I'm always checking it. However, that doesn't mean that I wasn't lax on it for a few months not thinking about it, unable to get air in them, etc.
Portland should be called Pothole, so it could be that too. I'm not sure if both edges are worn, I'll have to look at it. And since I need new tires, I may as well ask them to check my alignment and look at the control arm bushings.
The BFGoodrich g-Force COMP-2 A/S has slightly higher treadwear ratings and is a bit cheaper. But the Contis are already rated "superior" for the category so don't expect a dramatic difference. Consumer Survey Results By Category
FWIW, I have a set of these and I'm very satisfied with the handling and the price. I bought them based on Tire Rack's review and other buyers' experiences.
I'd like to add rolling resistance to the trade off. Especially in Europe they are pushing towards low rolling resistance tires to reduce fuel consumption.
That's just part of the traction equation. A foolish move to give up traction/stability/safety in order to squeeze out another 0.1mpg. As the edmunds article on them says "If your vehicle came from the factory with low-rolling-resistance tires, simply insist on original-equipment tires as replacements."
30k on my sets of dws06 on average but driven somewhat hard. Dw are not the same as dws though FYI. High performance summer tires I believe.
Check your alignment and tire pressure. That's likely the real problem. Is it a honda/acura? They tend to leave the rear toe in too aggressive for handling and it wears out tires too quick.
30k on my sets of dws06 on average but driven somewhat hard. Dw are not the same as dws though FYI. High performance summer tires I believe.
Check your alignment and tire pressure. That's likely the real problem. Is it a honda/acura? They tend to leave the rear toe in too aggressive for handling and it wears out tires too quick.
I'm thinking it must be that too. I know my tire pressure fluctuates a lot and tends to lose air a lot (it did with my stock tires too). And although I check it, maybe with the cold/heat etc, I have to be more diligent about it. Oh, and I have a Mazda 3 HB.
I have a 2011 Mazda 3 HB. The tires are 2015/50/17.
My bf looked at my tires and said it looks like underinflation . I hope not because they're somewhat low-profile and I can easily tell when they are low (and usually they're about 1-2 psi low), so I'm always checking it. However, that doesn't mean that I wasn't lax on it for a few months not thinking about it, unable to get air in them, etc.
Whats the recommended pressure on the door sticker?
Usually that sticker applies to factory tires, but when you change brands, you need to pay attention and make small adjustments based on how stiff/soft a tire is.
I used to paint a white line on my tires, and then go for a drive. After a few miles, I'd pull over and see how the paint was wearing. More in the center, I'd drop the air pressure and redo the paint and go for a drive (after it dried), less in the center, I'd add air. A little bit of work yes, but it translated to 70K miles out of 2 sets of DWS tires. I ran mine 3 psi more than the factory recommended.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
. I hope not because they're somewhat low-profile and I can easily tell when they are low (and usually they're about 1-2 psi low), so I'm always checking it. However, that doesn't mean that I wasn't lax on it for a few months not thinking about it, unable to get air in them, etc. 
