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Using public/private key encryption there is no reason this should be an issue. The problem which has been illustrated so many times with so many devices is the rush to get this tech to market.
Battery operated grinder....zink! They also have sawzall blades for metal like that. Hardened steel is also more susceptible to cracking, you freeze it with a can of air or something else that gets really cold and then hit it with a hammer.
It's a deterrent where thief will move onto easier target but at the end of the day locks keep honest people honest.
I actually tried a Makita grinder on mine. It made a lot of sparks and didn't do much, not enough to damage it's integrity. Not to mention most thieves don't carry power tools.
I actually tried a Makita grinder on mine. It made a lot of sparks and didn't do much, not enough to damage it's integrity. Not to mention most thieves don't carry power tools.
"Honey, it sounds like someone's running the garbage disposal."
My Challenger has proximity and a fob with buttons, but when I leave it, I press the little button on the door handle to lock it for just this reason. When I go back to it, my hand under the door handle unlocks it, the fob stays in my pocket all the time.
Fob proximity is just as easy to hack, unless it is the old IR based ones Benz used to use, but since you fob stays in your pocket, it is also RF based. No problem to pickup the fob-CIM handshake from a good distance with a Software Defined Radio.
I agree with the dislike of the electronic fobs over mechanical keys. My fob broke. A replacement fob is $178 form the dealer and another $58 to program it. Set of two with tax, roughly $400.
I did find some online for $79, however after ordering them I realized the dealer may try to charge me $59 each to program them when they said they would only charge for programming once with dealer fobs. If, so, I still save money, just not very much.
I would take a $1 key anyday, even if it means forgoing the wonder of remote start and a warm car.
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