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Pads and rotors can take a lot more punishment than some have noted. I've been to the 12 hours race at Sebring many times. When the sun goes down, you can see the rotors glowing cherry red. Cars are raced at full speed with severe braking at turns and there's never brake failure for 12 hours. Same thing at the Daytona 24
What kind of vehicle is it? Parking brakes have nothing to do with the front or rear brakes in most vehicles. Instead, it is a mechanical system in most cases, with separate drums and shoes. Your rear brakes should not have been affected. If this becomes a problem, a lot of vehicles now have an electric parking brake that automatically releases when the vehicle is placed in gear. Something to consider when you purchase your next vehicle.
So what do you think? Was the shop just looking to sell us new pads and rotors? Or was replacing the pads and rotors the right thing to do considering the safety factor?
So you just dropped car off and stated "Fix it" ?
You stay with car and actually LOOK at the brakes. Then determine if they should be replaced.
And you don't state how worn the brakes were BEFORE this happened.
You might have needed a brake job anyway.
If I was the mechanic and listened to this story - I would have replaced the brakes. If disk brakes the rotors would be warped anyway.
But as one suggested above, usually (not always) there is a single cable going to one of the back brakes as that is the emergency brake. Some cars had cable split and go to both brakes in rear. Some newer cars all is electric or electronic. Not sure how that works.
Should have taken the young person to shop with you and BOTH look at the brakes/damage. How is the young person ever gonna learn?
I was under the impression the parking brake doesnt activate the brakes on all 4 wheels but just the rear wheels or in the case of Subarus just the front wheels so under ops situation i'd be suspect if the mechanic told me i needed pads and rotors on all 4 wheels.
i'd get a second opinion on any work needing to be done.
Also modern brake pads have built in wear indicators meaning they will start to make noises before they actually disintegrate,if they arent making any noises i'[d just leave em alone.
Out of curiosity how many miles do you estimate are on your current brakes?
When was the last time the car was inspected, pad wear would of been checked at this time. The Parking / Hand brake, has 2 functions. For parking, (this has its own set of pads and they aren't as robust as your main pads) and for a mechanical means to stop the vehicle when the hydraulic system fails. I have worked on the hand brake systems before. Keep it adjusted properly. Very easy to do, inside the vehicle. Simple cable with an adjusting nut to take up play at the handle.
Yes, they need replaced. The heat burned up the pads and probably warped the rotors.
It always surprises me that people take their cars to a mechanic to find out what is wrong, and then turn to people on the internet to question if they are being ripped off or not.
When was the last time the car was inspected, pad wear would of been checked at this time. The Parking / Hand brake, has 2 functions. For parking, (this has its own set of pads and they aren't as robust as your main pads) and for a mechanical means to stop the vehicle when the hydraulic system fails. I have worked on the hand brake systems before. Keep it adjusted properly. Very easy to do, inside the vehicle. Simple cable with an adjusting nut to take up play at the handle.
You do know that is not correct on all cars.
This is why you don't come to the internet for auto repair advice.
Pads and rotors can take a lot more punishment than some have noted. I've been to the 12 hours race at Sebring many times. When the sun goes down, you can see the rotors glowing cherry red. Cars are raced at full speed with severe braking at turns and there's never brake failure for 12 hours. Same thing at the Daytona 24
Were those pads and rotors purchased at your local Pep Boys or car dealer? They are designed for that punishment, standard automotive brakes are not.
depends on the car, not all will apply the brake at half pull, the clearance would be so small to not touch, I would say no, half pull would have no damage, its either on or off. but that just my opinion with my car, I have let mine not fully disengages for hundred of miles with no damage and had not needed brakes for years after
Yes you read that right. The brake was halfway set while my daughter drove it around for about 30-45 minutes until the brakes in the back failed. She was able to stop the car and after letting it sit for awhile was able to drive it to the shop and have it checked out. The shop said that the pads and rotors were shot and had to be replaced. My daughter said she did not hear any noises from the brakes while applying them after becoming aware of the brake problem.
So what do you think? Was the shop just looking to sell us new pads and rotors? Or was replacing the pads and rotors the right thing to do considering the safety factor?
I would think this would be noticeable while driving, unless she was driving a larger V8. I also think if they got hot enough to warp the drums, they would have clearly made a noise. If your daughter is generally aware and a decent driver, than they might be lying. However, just like ukrkoz said, it is hard to tell from here. If your brakes were in need of replacement, maybe she just finished them off. If they were ok, this is a lie. I have driven for weeks before using my E-brakes when my hydraulics were out and my rear brakes were just fine.
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Originally Posted by ukrkoz
Haven't we done it...I'd give some credit to shop on that. It's plausible. There is no way to tell from HERE without seeing that car.
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Originally Posted by ukrkoz
What they REALLY need to do is to replace ENTIRE brake fluid. Thing is, as I know what I am talking about, brake fluid boils and deteriorates rather quickly in situation like this. I am surprised she did not see any smoke from the rear but.... So anyway, that brake fluid is simply not safe to drive around with. Sorry. Has to be done. Complete flush.
I could be wrong, but isn't the EMC brakes activated by a cable? I thought that in the event of a malfunction in the hydraulics, the cable was to mechanically activate the rears. If you are referring to the rear slaves over heating, this is the first time I have heard of this. I wouldn't think those would get hot enough sense they were separate and in essence 'air cooled'. If I'm wrong on that, then couldn't you just replace the slaves and pump new fluid through the systems and bleed the 'bad' out?
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