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My fiance's 2013 Civic needs new brake pads, they're down to about 1MM. With quotes at $170/axle, I'm looking really hard at doing it myself. Having youtubed and googled it a fair bit, I think I am comfortable with it, especially since the rotors are good. I do have two questions.
Some of the kits look like they come with the retaining pins and brackets as well as the pads. Are these needed? Or can I reuse the pins that are on there? Or do they get brittle?
Do I need a shim or something to put on the face of the C Clamp when I compress the piston?
Ceramic vs. Semi-Metallic vs. Organic...Ceramic is the OEM part I believe, and isn't cheap. Semi-metallic is cheaper. Organic is the cheapest yet, but I'm told that shoots off a lot of dust and doesn't last.
Any pearls of wisdom you can provide I do appreciate.
It's not a bad idea to put something over the clamp especially if the clamp end isn't smooth. Being a 2013 the old part will most likely be reusable but new parts make doing it easier next time.
Use an old pad between the clamp and the piston. It will keep you from damaging the piston face and/or pushing it back in too far. Also, take the cap off the brake master reservoir when pushing it back. Much easier. You can almost do it by hand on some vehicles.
Be generous with the anti-squeal goo. I almost always use more than they provide, so i bought a little jar of it at the parts store.
I've replaced brake pads, and brake disks, and it was a pretty simple job.
However, both times there were 'tricks' that made it much easier. Surf Youtube for DIY videos and see if there are any there.
It is an easy job, just be careful and follow each step completely and exactly. Most of the time, I just replace the rotors. Having them turned is usually no possible these days and rarely cost effective. They come new, so close to their tolerance limits, they are not made to be turned, but sometimes you get lucky and have minimal wear. At least around us, many auto parts places no longer turn rotors.
Any of my kids who want to learn car repair, this is where I start because it is easy and satisfying. I have done hundreds of brake jobs over the last 38 years. Each car is different, but I can pretty much do them blindfolded now. Just do not forget to re-tighten the wheel lugs which seems to be the most common mistake by shade tree or professional mechanics.
While you have the car apart, repack the bearings with grease if they are not sealed. also lube any suspension parts that have grease points (most are sealed/disposable these days).
Ceramic pads cost ore, last longer, the create less black dust to coat your wheels, but wear the rotors more. However as mentioned, with any pads you are likely to replace the rotors at each brake change. However the last one on my truck, they were in great shape and did not need turning or replacement. Now, they have warped so they will be replaced next time I do pads.
the anti squeal grease sometimes works, sometimes not. Sometimes it does not last long. Once in a while it will work and last a long time. However I rarely bother with it and rarely have squeaks. Just be careful you do not get any grease on the pads or rotors. If you do, clean it as best you can, then do a dozen or so test stops before you go out driving around. Any residual grease will eventually burn off, but the brakes will not work completely well until then.
More important for safety and squealing - clean the rotors thoroughly before installing them. Brake cleaner works.
A side note, do not get brake fluid on anything. Not on your hands (or in your eyes) and not on your car paint. It is extremely caustic and will damage your skin and remove paint from the metal. You can also die pretty readily if you ingest it in significant quantities. You should not need to mess with brake fluid.
Pushing the cylinders in you can use anything under the C clamp. I used to use a 1x3, because I usually forgot to save an old brake shoe and did not want to dig it out of the trash. Now I have a tool made just for that purpose. You can get the tool free from most auto parts stores. Basically they sell you a used tool and you return it when done for your money back. They are hoping you will like it so much (like I did) you will just keep it. You will not want to keep it unless you have a lot of cars to service (like 7).
I agree with everything stated by all the above posters.
One word of caution, S-L-O-W-L-Y crank the C-clamp when compressing the brake piston to accommodate the increased thickness when installing the new pads. If you run it in too fast it may overflow the fluid from the master. On my trucks, there is plenty of room in the master reservoir and I've never had an issue with overflow. I have had the problem on a Honda Accord, a Volvo and a Chevrolet. Just be gentle, slow and observant as you crank it in.
1. do semi mets, not ceramics. Honda and Toyota rotors make rubbing noise with ceramics.
2. clean rotors with brake cleaning fluid before reinstall
3. reuse spring clips. Take careful look at how they are installed, they simply snap onto caliper bracket. remove one at a time, clean thoroughly, maybe even with a soft metal brush, then apply good coat of brake grease.
4. pop the caliper guides out of their channels, clean, lubricate generously.
5. lubricate every contact area where brake pads contact any metal; I normally lubricate back of the rear pad, where it will touch piston.
6. final result should be like this: with everything installed properly, caliper should slide easily back for on guides about 3 - 4mm.
7. been a while since I did Honda. You may need back up wrench when undoing the caliper bolts
8. take old coat hanger and band it into a hook shape. Suspend caliper off the strut spring with it.
When you get hang of it, it's about 20 min a side.
I usually buy rotors and pads. Turning rotors takes time and unless you hard on brakes and heated them up or warped them you'll be ok just resting the ones on there. I usually get clearance emails and I bought a set on clearance for every car I gave. Eventually I'm gonna do brakes anyway. Look online. Most of the stuff sold at the regular auto store is cheaper online than the store. Last brake job I did on my wife's car was front and backs and I think it cost me 140 for pads and rotors. It took me about a hour to do both axles.
Get brake cleaner and clean and lightly grease the slide pins. If the kit comes with new pins use them.
Well, if you are to buy rotors along - it may be quite an adventure to remove them off hubs. Esp on Honda or Toyota.
But if you did - make SURE you do bedding right away. It's a MUST.
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