Quote:
Originally Posted by kapikap
at 100,000 miles, you vehicle will be requiring high mileage maintenance. so expect water pump, timing belt, brakes, tires, shocks/struts, oxygen sensors, etc...your car will probably look outdated, and be well broken in. it does not mean time for a new car. keep details of service , if you can, as it will help with re sale.
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Not necessarily..... Timing belt, probably. Water pump... (only if you do the timing belt would you do this as preventative maintenance unless it springs a leak). The rest of the stuff should have already been changed if the OP is keeping up with maintenance. If not, then they would need to be changed at some point but that doesn't mean it will HAVE to be done at 100k. It just means you're closer to needing to do the work at 100k than when you were at 99k.
Quote:
Originally Posted by southernnaturelover
LOL, I was thinking the same thing, but include Korean vehicles in that too.
100k on my Toyotas I consider just broken in... 100k on a Ford or Kia, it's time to sell it!  |
OP,
Since stuff like the above usually gives people shivers let me share some experience with you. I keep a log book on my vehicles to know what all has been done to them. Here are "some" of my vehicle histories. There are way too many to post here.
Ford:
2000 F150 Lariat - Sold for more than I paid for it at 175k miles still running strong. Replaced coil packs once.
2003 F150 FX4 - Sold for more than I paid for it at 148k miles still running strong. Replaced an alternator once and one coil pack.
2004 F150 XLT - Sold for more than I paid for it at 105k miles to a coworker that had to have it. Never touched anything on it.
2005 Expedition - Traded in on a Toyota Venza for my wife at 155k miles still running strong (HUGE mistake). Replaced coil packs at 120k, and 1 injector at the same time.
2006 F150 Lariat - Traded in for a diesel at 160k miles still running strong. Replaced the coil packs at 130k miles.
1998 Mustang GT - Traded for a truck that would haul a car seat at 168k miles. No wrench turning at all except for aftermarket parts.
2003 Mustang GT - Sold for more than I paid for it at 95k miles. No wrench turning at all except for aftermarket parts.
2014 Expedition Limited (wife's car)- Currently has 79k miles on the odometer. Have not turned a wrench on it once other than normal maintenance (brakes, filters, fluid, tires).
GM:
1988 S10 - Sold at 215k miles. Never turned a wrench on it.
1991 Sonoma - Sold at over 200k miles. Fixed a loose steering column once and replaced a door handle.
2004 Avalanche Z66 - Traded in at 170k miles to get the wife a Camry. I had to fix lights in the instrument cluster once. No other work.
2000 Silverado 1500 - Sold at 150k miles. Never turned a wrench on it.
Dodge -
1997 Ram 1500 - replaced two radiators, 3 thermostats, transmission, dash, repaint. Traded it at 140k miles and took a loss.
2012 Ram 2500 diesel - This is my current truck. 78k miles as of this morning. Outside of normal maintenance and deleting the emissions system I have fixed a leaky back glass, fixed a door squeak, replaced front wheel bearings, tie rod ends, track bar (it's leveled so it threw off the alignment) and that has been it. The truck runs and operates flawlessly. But if it weren't a diesel I wouldn't own a Dodge.
Toyota -
1997 Tacoma - Bought from my father in law at 120k miles. Drove it to 180k miles before selling it for what I paid for it. No wrenches turned on it.
1999 Tacoma - Bought from a friend going bankrupt at 70k miles. Drove it to 100k miles before it dropped a cylinder. Was shocking to me.... but in fairness it had a turbo on it and the previous owner boosted the heck out of it on stock internals.
2008 Camry SE sport - Bought it for the wife at 138k miles. Drove it to 150k miles before it began consuming oil (2.4L). The car went through 1 quart of oil every 3k miles. Per Toyota, that was normal on that particular engine due to an oval shaped piston flaw. We traded it in shortly after.
2014 Toyota Venza. Bought brand new with 6 miles on it. At 10k miles, the panoramic roof literally exploded going around a curve. At 14k miles the windshield split right up the middle (Toyota dealer later explained that it was due to a lack of structure in the roof causing the chassis to flex). At 16k miles the driver seat back welds broke on the frame, dumping my wife while driving down the interstate. At 33k miles, we traded it in on the 2014 Expedition that she drives now.
Honda -
1988 Honda Prelude Si - Bought with 200k miles on it in excellent condition. Sold it at 310k miles. Put a timing belt on it once.
1998 Honda Accord SE - Bought with 70k miles and drove it until 130k miles before the transmission began slipping. Sold it and moved on.
The reality is that you shouldn't buy a vehicle based upon a brand or assume that every vehicle in a brand will be good or bad. You should do a couple of things up front.
1. Research the model you are interested in and look at reliability ratings and potential problems.
2. Have the vehicle you are interested in checked out, paying specific attention to any problem areas to ensure they have been addressed.
3. STAY ON TOP OF MAINTENANCE!! People think it's fine to slip past maintenance schedules because the vehicle still runs fine. Eventually that catches up. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Follow those guidelines and you will easily get well over 100k miles without a hiccup.
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