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Old 10-31-2017, 12:56 PM
 
17,302 posts, read 22,030,713 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimtheGuy View Post
I purchased my 2011 RAM 1500 crew cab 4x4 Big Horn in November of 2011 for $33k + ttl (MSRP was $43k). After 6 years and 80,000 miles it is still worth at least $20k.
.
Not a chance......Rams are cheap for a reason, after 6 yrs/80K miles there is no way you are getting 20K!

I bought a new one last year, hated it and traded it. I got 22K for a 10K mile/6 month old truck! I paid 28K and the MSRP was 36,xxx
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-Ram-15...JZ3xPx&vxp=mtr
Truck was this model with the 3.6 liter motor.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:19 PM
 
2,376 posts, read 2,930,862 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nlambert View Post

1/2 ton = light duty
3/4 ton = medium duty
1 ton+ = heavy duty


Kind of semantics on your part, but that is how they are listed.

Not in my world and according to most truck manufacturers, state DOT's and body upfitters.

Light Duty Trucks
Class 1 – This class of truck has a GVWR of 0 to 6,000 pounds (0 to 2,722kg).
Class 2 – This class of truck has a GVWR of 6,001 to 10,000 pounds (2,722 to 4,536 kg).
Class 3 – This class of truck has a GVWR of 10,001 to 14,000 pounds (4,536 to 6,350 kg).

Medium Duty Trucks
Class 4 – This class of truck has a GVWR of 14,001 to 16,000 pounds (6,351 to 7,257 kg).
Class 5 – This class of truck has a GVWR of 16,001 to 19,500 pounds (7,258 to 8,845 kg).
Class 6 – This class of truck has a GVWR of 19,501 to 26,000 pounds (8,846 to 11,793 kg).

Heavy Duty Trucks
Class 7 – This class of truck has a GVWR of 26,001 to 33,000 pounds (11,794 to 14,969 kg).
Class 8 – This class of truck has a GVWR of greater than 33,001 pounds (14,969 kg).

You small truck guys are real cute talking about 1/2 tons and 1 tons. That is peanuts to real truck people.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:24 PM
 
5,341 posts, read 14,138,219 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nlambert View Post
Autotrader and use zip code 35811. They'll pop up towards the top.




And again, you're looking at wants instead of actual real world figures. Wants may play into it somewhat, but at the end of the day the dollar tells all.
i am not looking at real world figures??? i am the one listing actual numbers and links. you on the other hand have no evidence what so ever.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:35 PM
 
5,341 posts, read 14,138,219 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by City Guy997S View Post
Not a chance......Rams are cheap for a reason, after 6 yrs/80K miles there is no way you are getting 20K!

I bought a new one last year, hated it and traded it. I got 22K for a 10K mile/6 month old truck! I paid 28K and the MSRP was 36,xxx
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-Ram-15...JZ3xPx&vxp=mtr
Truck was this model with the 3.6 liter motor.
again.....apples and oranges. you had a base model, quad cab, 2x2, 6 cyl. and traded it in to a dealer after 6 months. you clearly have no idea what you are talking about.

my truck would have a MSRP of about $48k today

New 2017 Ram 1500 Big Horn For Sale | Hastings MN

and that is for a 2017 compared to the MSRP of $36k for the 2018 p.o.s you list. not surprised you hated it.
who would by a RAM with a 6cyl when you can opt for the awesome 5.7 HEMI? what did you trade it in on, a honda civic??
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:42 PM
 
2,376 posts, read 2,930,862 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nlambert View Post
Let's use actual vehicles in the market to compare. Coming up with numbers off the top of your head is too easy to manipulate. What's to say the cost of the used vehicle was $20,000? It could have been $15k or less which will substantially reduce the cost long term.


Also, you cannot assume that every used vehicle will see an increase in maintenance cost on a linear scale. That just isn't true in any form. There are milestones where maintenance costs may be higher in one year and others where those costs may be minimal.
I understand it's not linear but each vehicle is different, and at the end of the day all that matters in my calcs is what the accumulated cost is over that 5/7 year period so each individual year is not that significant.

$30K new and $20K retention value two years later is a pretty realistic scenario to me. I have a few experiences with this kind of thing lately that makes me confident in those basic assumptions.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:46 PM
 
5,341 posts, read 14,138,219 times
Reputation: 4699
Quote:
Originally Posted by City Guy997S View Post
Not a chance......Rams are cheap for a reason, after 6 yrs/80K miles there is no way you are getting 20K!

I bought a new one last year, hated it and traded it. I got 22K for a 10K mile/6 month old truck! I paid 28K and the MSRP was 36,xxx
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-Ram-15...JZ3xPx&vxp=mtr
Truck was this model with the 3.6 liter motor.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/w...362766280.html
$19,500 with more miles and fewer options than mine (no navigation, no alpine audio, etc.)

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/c...352732894.html
$21k

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/d...353582957.html
$21k (no nav, no alpine, etc)

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/d...344007044.html
$19k 2009 116k miles (no nav, no alpine, no console shifter, etc. etc.)

They are high demand/hard to find up here in MN.
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Old 10-31-2017, 03:00 PM
 
Location: moved
13,649 posts, read 9,708,585 times
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My approach has been to buy cars no younger than 15 years old, no less than 100K miles. I prefer sports-oriented cars that were driven hard, not necessarily maintained well, sold by owners who’ve lost their affection for the car, and are ready to move on. While prospects are never certain, it’s been my experience that there’s a sweet-spot in vehicles age and wear, where it’s already near the bottom of its depreciation-curve, but still has several 10s of thousands of miles remaining before major maladies obtrude. The idea is to buy something that has deteriorated somewhat, but not too much… and to resell (or scrap) once the serious problems start mounting. Of course, this entails putting up with a few inoperable components, maybe some rust, rattles and shakes, diminished power and so forth. But if one is lucky, the only cost of ownership is liability-coverage, registration/taxes, gasoline, and wear-items such as motor oil and brake pads. The car is then sold for nearly that for which one has paid for it.
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Old 10-31-2017, 03:57 PM
 
5,730 posts, read 10,125,362 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimtheGuy View Post
Most of us don't keep a car for just 2 years. A 5 year analysis would probably be more realistic.
Where are your estimates for the maintenance and repairs on the 2016??
Until fairly recently (once my net worth was high enough) I drove cars that would have 3-4 previous owners.


....you'd be supprised how FEW maintance issues/costs there are with a vehicle that's taken care of.

-best thing you can do (dirt cheap junkers) is a "family car"
Mom gets it new, then dad drives it a few years, then a kid or younger cousin....
Sure the younger ones might wear out the breaks or sonething, but it'll still get maintance.

Very little maintance costs more than a single car payment, and those are rarely more than 1 per year (and this with vehicles WELL OVER 150K)

Another thing I'd like to do is to buy something with say.... a failing transmition. (Bought my 4 runner that way)
Get it discounted for the cost of the transmition, have a new one put in (that's beyond my meager skills) and then you KNOW you have a good one (for the same price as a chance.)

I've only been stranded 1x, and I knew it was going to happen on the trip..... but the payout (job) was worth it.
I was having my next car gone over at the mecanic, so I caught a ride to a car rental place and called and told them to hurry up with the jeep!
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Old 10-31-2017, 04:09 PM
 
5,730 posts, read 10,125,362 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamweasel View Post
That may be true in YOUR cases. That's why there is no "right" answer to this debate as everyone's situation is different on what they buy, how long they will keep a car, etc. That being said, since I like numbers let me throw a scenario out there that I just cobbled together. Ironically, enough, it was close to a dead heat on whether new or used is better.

I'm going to run a scenario of someone who buys a common midsize sedan. Here are the assumptions:

1) Average 15K miles per year driving
2) Given that, lets say you have the choice of buying a new car and keeping it 7 years, or buying a slightly used one (say, two years old) with 30K miles on it and keeping it for 5 more years. (This unloads the car right after 100K miles which is common.)
3) Over a 35 year period, this means you'll either buy 5 new cars over that time or 7 used cars.
4) Cost of new car = $30,000, resale value of $7,500 after year 7.
5) Cost of used car at year 2 with 30K miles on it = $20,000, resale value of $7,500 after owning it 5-years. (Which is year 7 of the car's life and matches the $7,500 resale on the new car in #4.)
6) Fuel mileage on new car is 27MPG, used car is 25MPG given new cars usually get a bump in fuel efficiency each year.
7) Maintenance costs are $100 in year 1, $200 in year 2, and raising by $100 each year after that.
8) Non-warranty repairs are zero in years 1 and 2, then $500 in year 3, $750 in year 4, and raising by $250 each year after that.
9) Assume no inflation for this exercise and all-else is equal

So using these numbers it yields a total cost of $210K ($6,000 per year) over that 35-year span for the new car buyer and $203K ($5,800 per year) for the used car buyer.

Pretty close....feel free to pick apart any assumptions. This is just one of a millions different scenarios one may find on the whole new vs used debate.


How about:

"Every single completely fictional and baseless number and action is specifically designed to give the answer you want rather than letting reality determine....

I have owned quite a few vehicles with OVER 100K on them and your maintance costs alone are hugely overstated!
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Old 10-31-2017, 04:18 PM
 
5,730 posts, read 10,125,362 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimtheGuy View Post
Now this I will agree with. However many of us aren't just looking for the proverbial "something to get me from point A to point B". The other end of the spectrum is if you buy certain vehicles new, they hold much more value than other models.
As I said, I'm not a car guy. A buddy is however.



He's got one mustang he bought new.

He's got close to 30 cars from the 70's, 80's, and 90's that even I will admit are "cool" (and I'm a "point a to point B" guy when it comes to 4 wheels..... now back when I could ride MOTORCYCLES it was different, but you'd be AMAZED at the amount of bike you can buy (used) for a few grand)

And every single one of them was under $10k

Many under $5

So, fir the SAVINGS of my truck I could have 2 "cool cars"

....and then there's used luxury cars.
Maintance will kill you (that's why they are so cheap)

But baring "I have to impress someone" you can get all kinds of heated seats and other luxuries WAY WAY under the cost of new!


Those looking to "hold their value" are those looking to sell soon so they can buy something ELSE to "impress with"

My little truck looks great (looks new) and elicits comments about how nice it is by people who know they aren't made anymore.
By the time it's not my daily driver it'll be a farm truck, and I anticipate by the time THAT'S done....

Well let's just say that my tow rig is a 2000 suburban with ~125k on it and I expect to have THAT 10 more years!
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