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Honda recommends changing the belt every ten years. It's more of an aging problem than wear. I am past due for a second change. That's because when I inspected my first belt it was still in perfect condition. A broken timing belt can potentially result in catastrophic engine failure however. So it becomes a bit of a game of Russian roulette to stretch it out too far. I am currently at 123,000 miles, and have been intending to change that belt again when I get to 130,000. I have a friend who has an Accord just like mine with over 200,000 miles, and she has never changed the timing belt.
I changed my timing belt on my 2004 Honda Civic (original owner) when it hit 103,274 miles. I did it in March of 2013 and bought the car at the end of August 2004, so about 8 and 3/4 years old at the time. I probably could have waited a little longer, but there was some "minor" cracking on the belt.
I also changed the water pump at the time as well and it cost $500 total, parts and labor (this was in North Carolina). I'm at about 162,000 miles now and hope to make it to 200,000 and beyond, and will probably end up changing the belt and water pump again when I get to that point.
I changed my timing belt on my 2004 Honda Civic (original owner) when it hit 103,274 miles. I did it in March of 2013 and bought the car at the end of August 2004, so about 8 and 3/4 years old at the time. I probably could have waited a little longer, but there was some "minor" cracking on the belt.
I also changed the water pump at the time as well and it cost $500 total, parts and labor (this was in North Carolina). I'm at about 162,000 miles now and hope to make it to 200,000 and beyond, and will probably end up changing the belt and water pump again when I get to that point.
Thanks, it's good to have a ballpark figure to go on as far as cost. I should probably start a "car fund" specifically to save for that kind of stuff no matter what kind of car I get. They ain't cheap, especially since I won't be doing any work myself. I'll just have to try to find a good trust worthy mechanic somewhere. I'm also in NC.
Thanks, it's good to have a ballpark figure to go on as far as cost. I should probably start a "car fund" specifically to save for that kind of stuff no matter what kind of car I get. They ain't cheap, especially since I won't be doing any work myself. I'll just have to try to find a good trust worthy mechanic somewhere. I'm also in NC.
The labor is the big cost, the timing belt and water pump were $180, the labor was $320, since they have to release the tension off the old timing belt to put the new belt on and make sure everything is properly aligned.
As for your question on belt and chain, basically the belt is rubber and the chain is metal. Honda went from a timing belt to a timing chain in 2006 for the Civic. Both can fail, but the belt (rubber) is probably more likely to wear and fail (the nature of rubber vs. metal), if you don't replace it when it's recommended.
This is wonderful info J, thank you very much. I'm saving what you guys tell me for future reference. Now something that I've wondered forever. What is the difference between a timing chain, and a timing belt? I guess I could look it up online, but since I have you cornered I'll ask now . Much appreciated. This is probably my last question.
A timing chain is made of metal links. A timing belt is a toothed belt made of rubber, with other compounds like Kevlar for added strength and longevity. Belts do not stretch, so they allow for more accurate control of the camshaft and valves. Belts should be quieter, though timing chains are also quiet when new.
I had a timing chain break on a 1984 Saab 900T about 25 years ago. I'd been warned by a mechanic that the tensioner was worn, but I was about to move to another state so put it off and then forgot about it. The failure actually did a lot of damage so I ended up with a completely new cylinder head.
I also had a timing belt fail on another vehicle about ten years ago, though it was not the belt itself but the failure of a non-standard roller-idler installed at a new-car dealership. The bearings in the part locked up, the idler quit turning, and the belt itself ripped to shreds in about half a second.
My personal preference is for a timing belt, with OE-quality parts installed by a competent mechanic. I do not let anyone from any dealership work under the hood of my cars. I do not trust them and I cannot afford them.
The labor is the big cost, the timing belt and water pump were $180, the labor was $320, since they have to release the tension off the old timing belt to put the new belt on and make sure everything is properly aligned.
As for your question on belt and chain, basically the belt is rubber and the chain is metal. Honda went from a timing belt to a timing chain in 2006 for the Civic. Both can fail, but the belt (rubber) is probably more likely to wear and fail (the nature of rubber vs. metal), if you don't replace it when it's recommended.
Oh, I get it, that makes sense. Thanks for the simple explanation. Now I feel enlightened .
A timing chain is made of metal links. A timing belt is a toothed belt made of rubber, with other compounds like Kevlar for added strength and longevity. Belts do not stretch, so they allow for more accurate control of the camshaft and valves. Belts should be quieter, though timing chains are also quiet when new.
I had a timing chain break on a 1984 Saab 900T about 25 years ago. I'd been warned by a mechanic that the tensioner was worn, but I was about to move to another state so put it off and then forgot about it. The failure actually did a lot of damage so I ended up with a completely new cylinder head.
I also had a timing belt fail on another vehicle about ten years ago, though it was not the belt itself but the failure of a non-standard roller-idler installed at a new-car dealership. The bearings in the part locked up, the idler quit turning, and the belt itself ripped to shreds in about half a second.
My personal preference is for a timing belt, with OE-quality parts installed by a competent mechanic. I do not let anyone from any dealership work under the hood of my cars. I do not trust them and I cannot afford them.
Sorry to hear of the failures . But I'm glad I'm not the only one who this has happened to. I felt pretty stupid both times, drat. The Honda went out on the freeway while I was in the fast lane going to work, and it lost power. I had to try, and make it to the right side of the road without getting killed. That was scary! And my AAA had lapsed so I had to borrow money from my daughter to get it in effect again to get the car towed. What a mess! I hate them. That's why I break out into hives at the thought of timing chains/belts.
For a few of those examples, get the manual transmission which was generally fine. Enjoy the extra discount via the extra depreciation from the bad rep with the automatic of the same car.
Where are you going to find one of those? Manuals are about as rare as running boards or rumble seats lately. ( except for sports cars, of course)
Last edited by pvande55; 12-03-2017 at 07:52 PM..
Reason: Clarification
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. Much appreciated. This is probably my last question.
.
. But I'm glad I'm not the only one who this has happened to. I felt pretty stupid both times, drat. The Honda went out on the freeway while I was in the fast lane going to work, and it lost power. I had to try, and make it to the right side of the road without getting killed. That was scary! And my AAA had lapsed so I had to borrow money from my daughter to get it in effect again to get the car towed. What a mess! I hate them. That's why I break out into hives at the thought of timing chains/belts.
