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You need to change the rear axle fluid and soon or expect failure. That additive you put in there was not the right thing to do. Now you have all of the crap that was laying in the bottom of the axle floating around in suspension grinding whats left of your axle to fine pieces. You need to change to a high moly gear oil. I'd HIGHLY recommend Swepco 203 Gear Lube. It's not going to break the bank and is high in what your high mileage rear axle needs. You can buy it locally or internet sales. Swepco is recommended by the Military and Mercedes Benz now recommends their gear oils and motor oils.
You need to change the rear axle fluid and soon or expect failure. That additive you put in there was not the right thing to do. Now you have all of the crap that was laying in the bottom of the axle floating around in suspension grinding whats left of your axle to fine pieces. You need to change to a high moly gear oil. I'd HIGHLY recommend Swepco 203 Gear Lube. It's not going to break the bank and is high in what your high mileage rear axle needs. You can buy it locally or internet sales. Swepco is recommended by the Military and Mercedes Benz now recommends their gear oils and motor oils.
The additive definitely helps.........but that very old diff-fluid and the above post is scaring me. I better get on it before my rear-end disintegrates!
For an old worn out car like that a magic potion is the only practical answer. Sometimes the potions work, sometimes they speed the end either way they are the only practical answer. I had a potion solve transmission shudder for about a year. the truck would have bene off the road in a week without the potion. They are never a long term solution and many of them do not actually do anything at all, but some of them can get a few more months out of an already dead car or truck
What symptoms do you have? I have had to have two rear ends rebuilt, the first was a Borg Warner 9-bolt in my Firebird that would whine under load with my foot on the gas, but would quieten when I let off. It needed new pinion gears, and I had to order those parts all the way from Australia.
The second one was a GM 10-bolt in a 95 Camaro. It was the opposite, it was fine with my foot on the gas, but made an awful sound when I let off to coast. That one ended up being the carrier bearing.
What symptoms do you have? I have had to have two rear ends rebuilt, the first was a Borg Warner 9-bolt in my Firebird that would whine under load with my foot on the gas, but would quieten when I let off. It needed new pinion gears, and I had to order those parts all the way from Australia.
The second one was a GM 10-bolt in a 95 Camaro. It was the opposite, it was fine with my foot on the gas, but made an awful sound when I let off to coast. That one ended up being the carrier bearing.
Yeah, whine and some clunk. I checked the driveshaft and do not think it is coming from there. Also, the noise went down substantially when I put the additive into the diff........the fluid in the diff looks quite old and worn.
Ok, I have that rear differential-whine that is common when the gearing back there gets worn. I checked the oil and, yikes, it is probably original.....lost viscosity and very old. So, like a dummy, I put some additive in and yes, it did quiet it down substantially.
After thinking about it, I know I need to pump-out at least a quart of that very old stuff and add some new, synthetic oil. The recommendation for my rig is 80/90w.....but I am considering 75/140w with another bottle of additive. My thinking is the read-end is worn (I am also getting some differential-clunk) and the extra viscosity and additive would do it a lot of good. Also, I am not going to be driving much in very cold locations, so hopefully the added viscosity will not matter in that area?
Is it a big problem to use 75/140w as opposed to 80/90w.......any advice is welcomed!
Thanks,
Tickyul.
Whatever grade of oil you put in the differential will not perform mechanical repairs.
Get under there and check the driveshaft. Twist it and see if there is any slack. Then shake it.
Any slack other than the pinion lash you have a bad joint. I had Dodge Ram that all of the sudden started squealing. Ended up it was a bad u joint.
Simply adding LS additive doesn’t fix anything. If it’s a bad pinion bearing it may seize up causing even more issues
If push comes to shove, you might be better off finding a good used diff from a yard, rather than rebuild the one you have. You could check the brake shoes (I am assuming drum brakes on the rear of this truck, am I wrong?) and replace them, and probably the slave cylinders as well, then either head for a shop with the ready rear axle in the bed of your truck.
I agree with Electrician, normally the clunking is loose u-joints in the drive shaft. May not be in your case, but, in my experience it's usually worn u-joints.
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