Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I own a 2006 Scion (Toyota) xB with 180k miles on it. It’s been great! Easy to maintain and not really any problems. Recently I had some issues with my car pulling to one side and my steering wheel a little more loose than desireable, so my mechanic friend did an alignment and rotated my tires. This alleviated the pulling tremendously, but since my tires were worn he suggested replacing so the problem would not come back.
So my car has been running perfectly fine without issue.
I schedule all 4 tires to be replaced at one of those big box tire shops one evening.
The next day I’ve got Christmas lights all over my dash. (VSC; TRACK OFF; ABS; BRAKE)
I took it back, they asked if I lost my gas cap..ha! which I did, the original was recently replaced because a code was saying there was fuel/vapor loss; the day after getting tires I must have left my gas cap on the hood like an idiot and drove off after filling up .
So I bought another gas cap.
Christmas lights STILL there and I’m getting a code about a wheel sensor along with 2 other codes.
Any ideas or suggestions? I’m hoping to get a better idea of what’s going on here before taking it back to he tire place. All I know is that I had ZERO Christmas lights before the tires.
Also my battery ways just replaced brand new 3-4 weeks ago, so I have no idea why I’m getting that code either.
The speed sensor is the critical error. The C0210 is causing the C1223 and is also the cause of your 'christmas tree'
The C1241.. I'd fix problem #1 and then see if that one comes back, even though it shows as a current code.. I'd have to do some research on that code. Based on reading it.. Voltage is too high or too low.. But.. If it was too low, I doubt it'd run right.. So.. Begging off that one for the moment.
The question is.. C0210.. Is that a bad sensor, or is it a bad tone ring? The sensor is mounted on the hub.. Replacing it is generally simple. You don't mention your location.. Obviously salty areas things can get tricky.. But.. If it's the sensor.. You're looking at $70 to $100 for the part, an hour of labor to replace, assuming no surprises.
If it's the tone ring, that's part of the hub, and you're replacing the hub. That.. $30 to $120 for the part.. It's probably still an hour of labor.. Perhaps 2.. Never done one myself. The tone ring, FYI, is basically a magnet on the hub that triggers the sensor as it passes it. (Or vice versa.. Never can remember this)
Here's the rub.. If it's the sensor.. Well, obviously, first thing to check.. Is it connected? Second thing to check.. Did your big box place screw it up? Unlikely they damaged the tone ring.. But would not be OVERLY difficult for them to screw up the sensor. Proving it is another story. The code would have pretty much been thrown immediately, so if this happened a day later. While it doesn't exonerate them.. There's zero chance of proving they did it and it makes it more unlikely that they did.
So.. There's what you're looking at. There's no good way to test a wheel speed sensor without a bidirectional scan tool. People will say you can measure the AC coming from it.. The change is so minuscule that I disagree with that. Only real test, hook up the scanner, drive down the road and monitor the signal. Or.. Hook up an oscilloscope, which I'm also sure you have a spare out in your garage, alongside the bidirectional scanner and next to your pile of gold.
Wheel speed sensors control ABS, Traction Control systems and Vehicle Stability Control.. Which is why that one 'sensor' failing caused your Christmas Tree effect. You lose all three systems when the vehicle can't tell how fast a wheel is turning.
I'll try to look up that code C1241.. If someone has Scion TSBs.. Perhaps they'll look for that one for you. I'm not confident enough at all to say anything about that.
C1241.. Power to the ABS system dropped below 10v while vehicle was at or above 2mph
That one.. Smells fishy to me. You don't have a 'battery' light on the dash that's on, do you? No hard starts? Sounding like your battery is dying?
I'd clear that code and wait and see on it.
FYI, a handy tip.. Vehicles don't have a battery light. That's the alternator light. That light comes on, you're not getting much further. Stop first chance you get. Had a woman ask me for a jump at the Waffle House a month or so ago.. I jumped her car, took the jumper cables off.. Car died. I knew immediately.. I asked if her "battery" light had been on.. Yep.. Told her she wasn't going anywhere. At least that car wasn't that night under its own power.
I would hypothesize that 2 of the codes are from the ABS-sensor........maybe dirt got on them or they were otherwise disturbed when they were working on the tires. The high-voltage code is probably historical, some sort of spike when the battery was disconnected.
I would clear the codes and make a good check of those sensors.
Labonte18 give great advice. I would check the battery with a multimeter to confirm the voltage. Your new battery must be supplying at least 10.8V or else your car probably wouldn't start at all. I'm wondering if you have electrical issues that might be giving you all these codes...not to worry too much because they all seem isolated to the ABS system.
I had an ABS wheel speed sensor give an intermittent signal for over 120K miles. It never bothered me because I don't have a traction control system that would ever intervene. My problem started after I installed a set of coilovers, but I could never seem to fix the issue. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor, compressed air, dielectric grease, but nothing seemed to help. Years later, I had the front spindles, hubs, control arms, ball joints, tie-rods, and brake system replaced when I did an upgrade and my ABS wheel speed sensor issue went away. I'll never know what the issue was, but a new tone ring for me fixed my problem.
I'd clear the code and see what comes back. If you're near Orange County, Ca I have Toyota Techstream that will do more than just diagnose Toyota/Scion/Lexus vehicles.
My battery is brand new, the original wasn’t dead, but was on its way to needing replaced anyway. The new one was hooked up 2-3 weeks ago.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Labonte18
C1241.. Power to the ABS system dropped below 10v while vehicle was at or above 2mph
That one.. Smells fishy to me. You don't have a 'battery' light on the dash that's on, do you? No hard starts? Sounding like your battery is dying?
I'd clear that code and wait and see on it.
FYI, a handy tip.. Vehicles don't have a battery light. That's the alternator light. That light comes on, you're not getting much further. Stop first chance you get. Had a woman ask me for a jump at the Waffle House a month or so ago.. I jumped her car, took the jumper cables off.. Car died. I knew immediately.. I asked if her "battery" light had been on.. Yep.. Told her she wasn't going anywhere. At least that car wasn't that night under its own power.
So I took it back to big box tire place and their Certified Toyota tech/mechanic looked at it and they said there is no problem with the breaks(ABS), however they did say the wheel sensor had gone bad and needed to be replaced with the barring. From my understanding this is all enclosed in one hub and the whole hub has to be replaced.
They said there was no damage or detachment to the wheel sensor, It was just old and needed replacement since my car is a 2006.
I’m really just dumbfounded that this would happen immediately after my tires were replaced and not any point the day of or day before tire replacement. It seems like a really huge unlikely coincidence that there would be no indication the day of and it just happened to suddenly indicate AFTER getting the tires replaced.
A week or two prior I had the tie rods on the front replaced and then a week following had tire rotation and alignment, yet nothing indicated on my dash at any point in time following that.
If it needs to be done it needs to be done..I just would like to understand if there is something that could have occurred during the tire replacement, not necessarily damaging, but something that could have moved around or triggered something that caused the car to ping replacement for the wheel sensor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwong7
Labonte18 give great advice. I would check the battery with a multimeter to confirm the voltage. Your new battery must be supplying at least 10.8V or else your car probably wouldn't start at all. I'm wondering if you have electrical issues that might be giving you all these codes...not to worry too much because they all seem isolated to the ABS system.
I had an ABS wheel speed sensor give an intermittent signal for over 120K miles. It never bothered me because I don't have a traction control system that would ever intervene. My problem started after I installed a set of coilovers, but I could never seem to fix the issue. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor, compressed air, dielectric grease, but nothing seemed to help. Years later, I had the front spindles, hubs, control arms, ball joints, tie-rods, and brake system replaced when I did an upgrade and my ABS wheel speed sensor issue went away. I'll never know what the issue was, but a new tone ring for me fixed my problem.
I'd clear the code and see what comes back. If you're near Orange County, Ca I have Toyota Techstream that will do more than just diagnose Toyota/Scion/Lexus vehicles.
So I took it back to big box tire place and their Certified Toyota tech/mechanic looked at it and they said there is no problem with the breaks(ABS), however they did say the wheel sensor had gone bad and needed to be replaced with the barring. From my understanding this is all enclosed in one hub and the whole hub has to be replaced.
They said there was no damage or detachment to the wheel sensor, It was just old and needed replacement since my car is a 2006.
I’m really just dumbfounded that this would happen immediately after my tires were replaced and not any point the day of or day before tire replacement. It seems like a really huge unlikely coincidence that there would be no indication the day of and it just happened to suddenly indicate AFTER getting the tires replaced.
A week or two prior I had the tie rods on the front replaced and then a week following had tire rotation and alignment, yet nothing indicated on my dash at any point in time following that.
If it needs to be done it needs to be done..I just would like to understand if there is something that could have occurred during the tire replacement, not necessarily damaging, but something that could have moved around or triggered something that caused the car to ping replacement for the wheel sensor.
They pulled this same thing on me a few years ago. Like you, I wondered why it would suddenly happen right after getting the brakes fixed. I paid for it, but never did think to ask here what people thought of a wheel sensor going bad right after a repair was made. The logical thought is the the mechanic screwed up something. However, I hope some with knowledge will respond to your situation and explain a plausible reason. Mine went bad within hours, but your was a week if I read you right.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
