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I'm planning in installing a receiver hitch on my SUV. I'm trying to decide whether to install a Class 2 with a 1-1/4" receiver, or Class 3 with a 2" receiver.
My main purpose is for a bike rack, and the rack I currently have is 1-1/4". I've got a 2017 Mazda CX-5, rated to tow up to 2000 pounds (but this question could apply to many SUVs). So it sounds like I'd be fine with the Class 2. But is there any reason I should get the Class 3 for future-proofing?
Class 2 can tow up to 3,500 lbs., which covers my vehicle towing capacity.
Class 3 can tow up to 8,000 lbs.
But there is also Tongue Weight Capacity (TWC), which is the direct vertical weight on the hitch, vs how much I'm towing. This seems more applicable for a bike rack.
Class 2 has TWC = 200-350 lbs.
Class 3 has TWC = 350-500 lbs.
So, if I have my bike rack + 3 bikes on it, I'm still most likely not over 200 lbs. So the Class 2 could be fine.
But again, is there a reason I'd be better off with a Class 3 receiver and a 2" hitch? (If I go that route, I'd already need to buy a converter for my 1-1/4" bike rack, which may not be a big deal.)
I'm planning in installing a receiver hitch on my SUV. I'm trying to decide whether to install a Class 2 with a 1-1/4" receiver, or Class 3 with a 2" receiver.
My main purpose is for a bike rack, and the rack I currently have is 1-1/4". I've got a 2017 Mazda CX-5, rated to tow up to 2000 pounds (but this question could apply to many SUVs). So it sounds like I'd be fine with the Class 2. But is there any reason I should get the Class 3 for future-proofing?
Class 2 can tow up to 3,500 lbs., which covers my vehicle towing capacity.
Class 3 can tow up to 8,000 lbs.
But there is also Tongue Weight Capacity (TWC), which is the direct vertical weight on the hitch, vs how much I'm towing. This seems more applicable for a bike rack.
Class 2 has TWC = 200-350 lbs.
Class 3 has TWC = 350-500 lbs.
So, if I have my bike rack + 3 bikes on it, I'm still most likely not over 200 lbs. So the Class 2 could be fine.
But again, is there a reason I'd be better off with a Class 3 receiver and a 2" hitch? (If I go that route, I'd already need to buy a converter for my 1-1/4" bike rack, which may not be a big deal.)
Since your Mazda is a CUV not a Suv witch is a unibody not a body on frame, you only need a class ll because you’re never going to tow anything over 2,000 lbs. you realize that the 2,000 lb towing capacity is dry weight. Dry Weight. Dry Weight is the actual weight of a vehicle or trailer containing standard equipment without fuel, fluids, cargo, passengers, or optional equipment. So fo you to get a class lll is overkill. Vehicles with a unibody instead of a body-on-frame should never use a WD hitch.
Awesome, I appreciate the info everyone! I found a great hitch installer locally, and they recommended going larger also. Why not have the capacity, right?
(Unfortunately, after checking, the 2" is out of stock everywhere but they have the 1-1/4". Ugh! So I'll call around to try to get the 2", but may end up having to go smaller if I can't get it before my trip.)
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