Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
When I was a kid, my father build us a tent trailer for family camping trips and he used the axles from a '63 or '64 Ford Falcon. Apparently, they were more sensitive to most cars when it came to the bearings and if the were too tight or not greased properly, they literally weld themselves to the axle.
Please keep in mind that this is the memory from when I was about 8 years old followed by memories of an 11 year old who watched his dad, sitting beside the road, in south Florida on a summer day, with a hammer and a chisel trying to get the bearings off of the axle when we were headed to the Keys. I think I added a few new words to my vocabulary. I could be wrong! lol
When I was a kid, my father build us a tent trailer for family camping trips and he used the axles from a '63 or '64 Ford Falcon. Apparently, they were more sensitive to most cars when it came to the bearings and if the were too tight or not greased properly, they literally weld themselves to the axle.
Please keep in mind that this is the memory from when I was about 8 years old followed by memories of an 11 year old who watched his dad, sitting beside the road, in south Florida on a summer day, with a hammer and a chisel trying to get the bearings off of the axle when we were headed to the Keys. I think I added a few new words to my vocabulary. I could be wrong! lol
falcon axles are no more prone to bearings buring out than any other axle out there. however i do plan to upgrade to an 8" rear end because of a lack of parts availability for the original axle.
I'm already there and spent less than 10% of the budget:
1 1988 BMW M3 the "Good, Fast" car (spent 10K, now worth over 40)
2 1982 Scirocco (substituting "high MPG cheap commuter) (bought for 1K, probably worth 3 now, due to some appreciation but mostly to mechanical and electrical upgrades)
3 1992 Subie Legacy AWD (regular car to haul along the wife) (spent 1.5K, still worth more but not sure how much)
4 1975 Ford F-350 (single rear tire) (spent 2.5K, now worth more maybe 4K)
Probably the Subie has the worst financial outlook, the other 3 are at least somewhat collectable, although the M3 has appreciated far more than I ever expected.
If I can still spend on up to $300K, I would add a Hemi Superbird and maybe an 80's air cooled 911 to the garage. Luxo-barges just don't do anything for me. New production does not do anything for me. Buddy just bought a new Subie, it has a "feature" (bug) where a camera looks at the driver and beeps if it thinks you look away from the road. An electronic back seat driver no less. No thanks.
1. 2018 Mercedes-Benz AMG E63 S as built $122,295
2. 2019 Porsche 911 Targa 4S as built $144,430
3. 2019 BMW X1 xDrive28i M Sport as built $49,020
4. 2018 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Regular Cab Work Truck as built $43,120
Now THAT is a good list, from my POV. Repped.
I'm too lazy to go to configurators and figure this out exactly, but looking in my own garage and extrapolating just a bit...
1. 2015 Porsche GTS C4: bought CPO about $124K. Self-evident use (or lack-of) as a fun car. Already own this and see no reason to change/upgrade anything until further notice. I like the 4's vs. 2's here in the PacNW.
2. 2019: Toyota Land Cruiser, various options: about $95K. Perhaps the best vehicle for sale today, will last until Hell freezes over, then we'll drive it on the ice in 4wd Low Range!
3. 2020: BMW 1250GS: major update to an iconic classic. When Porsche is paid off, and Ducati sold, about $25K.
4. A used, or salvage, P100D Tesla S: < $50K for project. Would love to have inexpensive bodywork done to restore for the street. Race-wrap for about $5K. Remove about 80% of the dead weight. Install custom ROM(s) to go beyond Ludicrous Mode....people have created these...and have a rip-roaring good time with an electric street rod that makes 750hp or so.
Guys who race these Teslas, and yes there are of-late class(es) to do this, state that heat management is the big problem. That's what battery cars are all about, stopping them from burning down at any given minute due to the nature of the batteries.
Sports car - 2019 Corvette ZR1 ($118,900)
Tourer - 2018 Tesla Model S P100D ($135,000)
Family car - 2019 Honda Accord Touring 2.0T (about $37,000)
Old truck - 1996 Ford F-150 (about $5,000)
• “Big tourer” and “about town” car largely overlap, unless the latter requires high gas-mileage. For both, I’d choose a 2000-2006 Lexus LS 430.
• That opens two sports car options: a fun/cheap one, possibly for autocross; and a serious/high-performance one. For the former, I’d choose a 1990-1997 Miata, and for the latter, a C6 Z06 Corvette.
• Finally, the truck. I agree with the OP, on an early 1970s Ford or Chevy.
This collection can be acquired for under $100K, leaving >$200K to invest. If the full $300K must be spent, I’d retain the above collection, but add:
• A second Miata, with V8 (LS3) swap.
• An early 1970s BMW 2002, also with a swap of some sorts.
• An early 1970s Datsun Z, with a tube-chassis and big block Chevy engine, set up for drag racing.
• 993-series (1995-1996) Porsche 911 Carrera RS
• Lotus Elite (1957-1963)
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
