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Steering shaft passes so close to the plug it's hard to get just the socket on the plug. I thought I could get the socket on and use an open end wrench on the end of plug socket but with 3/4 in long threads the socket runs into the steering shaft before the plug is all the way out. Unless there is a short plug socket it appears you have to move the shaft or raise the engine. Anyone know?
I am guessing you must have the 4.3 liter V6? If so, I have been told you usually can remove the left front wheel and remove it from under the wheel well. I think I was told you could untorque it with a crows foot or open end and use a cut off piece of hose ran thru the wheel well mud flap, on the insulator, to thread it out and thread it back in. Could also try a long extension ran the same way.
As far as I know it's not needed to remove the steering shaft. I did once have a 97 S-10 with the 4.3, though I never had to change plugs (thank god, it looked like nightmare in the maze of wires and hoses) I did ask about it.
I am guessing you must have the 4.3 liter V6? If so, I have been told you usually can remove the left front wheel and remove it from under the wheel well. I think I was told you could untorque it with a crows foot or open end and use a cut off piece of hose ran thru the wheel well mud flap, on the insulator, to thread it out and thread it back in. Could also try a long extension ran the same way.
As far as I know it's not needed to remove the steering shaft. I did once have a 97 S-10 with the 4.3, though I never had to change plugs (thank god, it looked like nightmare in the maze of wires and hoses) I did ask about it.
You're right on the engine and I thank you for the suggestions. I've got $40-50,000 worth of tools and 50 years experience. We got the other 5 out thru the wheel well with a 3' extension. Someone told me this weekend I have to remove the bolt from the motor mount and jack up the engine to get to #5. I'll let my kid do it, it's his truck.
Last edited by studedude; 04-23-2008 at 01:29 PM..
Reason: add more info
You might check with a Snap-on dealer if you can find one, there may be a special tool. Although, if the designers intended you to jack up the motor, usually it's set up so you just pull one bolt, I would recommend putting a block of wood between a floor jack and the oil pan, it's not that hard.
If you can get your hands on a factory manual, it should say. There usually is a trick. Although on some GM V-6 installations (why is it usually the V-6?) sparkplug access is not very good, it's just a poor design. DN's suggestion of breaking it loose with a socket then using a short hose to spin it out/spin the new one in is a good one, IMHO.
Back in the day, on my '68 GTO, the 2 front passenger's side plugs under the A/C compressor were a bear to get at *unless* you took off the front wheel - then they were staring right at you above the upper A-arm.
You didn't ask, but allow me to be so bold as to suggest this may be a good application for NGK Iridium or similar very long-lasting plugs. I'd put some good anti-seize on them, particularly if you plan to leave them in a long time, even more so since you are in the Rust Belt.
I think this is another way for the dealer to get you to pay them thru the nose to complete a task they probably can do in 5 min because they have special sophisticated tools to get in there.
You might check with a Snap-on dealer if you can find one, there may be a special tool. Although, if the designers intended you to jack up the motor, usually it's set up so you just pull one bolt, I would recommend putting a block of wood between a floor jack and the oil pan, it's not that hard.
If you can get your hands on a factory manual, it should say. There usually is a trick. Although on some GM V-6 installations (why is it usually the V-6?) sparkplug access is not very good, it's just a poor design. DN's suggestion of breaking it loose with a socket then using a short hose to spin it out/spin the new one in is a good one, IMHO.
Back in the day, on my '68 GTO, the 2 front passenger's side plugs under the A/C compressor were a bear to get at *unless* you took off the front wheel - then they were staring right at you above the upper A-arm.
You didn't ask, but allow me to be so bold as to suggest this may be a good application for NGK Iridium or similar very long-lasting plugs. I'd put some good anti-seize on them, particularly if you plan to leave them in a long time, even more so since you are in the Rust Belt.
I know what your talking about with your GTO. My 66 & 67 V8 Chevy II's required getting to the plugs from the bottom with a 13/16 box wrench. Newer vehicles with plugs with tapered seats are set too far into the heads to get a box wrench on.
We installed 5 Bosch triple platinum and went to the track. Improved 1/4 mi time by almost .5 sec. Now if we can keep him from red lighting first round. Any suggestions? Maybe some downers
This post has been edited by AlphaMan: Yesterday, 09:04 PM
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I don't undo the motor mount bolt, but I put a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan and raise the engine a little. The rubber mount will allow the engine to raise up maybe 1/2 inch. I use a 5/8 snap on deep socket which is just the right length to allow a ratchet to fit in and loosen the spark plug. after loosening the plug, I remove the ratchet and socket and use a short length of 3/8 hose slid onto the spark plug to remove the plug. I use the same hose to start the new plug and hand tighten, then I tighten the plug with the socket and ratchet.... Or I go through the wheel well with a log extension if the truck is on the lift, where it is easy to raise up...
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I was considering buying another S-10 with a 4.3 but that makes me want to reconsider......
