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Just drive the car. The compression isn't so low that you'll even notice a loss of performance. If the compression were 60 160 160 160 then you'd have a real problem. You'll probably get at least another 100,000 miles out of it.
I just checked the exact mileage of the car and it says it's 211,523. Would you still say it will last at least another 100,000 miles?
Who is they? Rid of them.
Read your own post, does it make sense?
compression low (140, 160, 160, 160).
Minimum is 145PSI.
You have ONE cylinder with lower compression and THREE with spec one. My inlaw Corolla was driving fine with compression tested at half the spec, just taking oil.
Even that compression you can restore pretty easily without doing anything major.
Please, do yourself a favor - don't let anyone use your ignorance and pasture on it for profit.
Go to any parts store, ask for mobile mechanic recommendation and try that. Usually, good people and not expensive. MAF sensor light may be caused by simple reasons, you just need someone with brains instead of greed to figure it out.
So I should get the engine fixed or replaced with a used one? About much would that costs for both situations parts and labor?
I just checked the exact mileage of the car and it says it's 211,523. Would you still say it will last at least another 100,000 miles?
The bigger question is do you live in a state when emissions testing is required? If yes then you either need to get it fixed or get yourself another vehicle. If no, then keep on driving until it really starts acting up. You never mentioned what vehicle and year it is?
The bigger question is do you live in a state when emissions testing is required? If yes then you either need to get it fixed or get yourself another vehicle. If no, then keep on driving until it really starts acting up. You never mentioned what vehicle and year it is?
Toyota Corolla 2008 CE. I live in GA. I never heard of someone have to do a test just to continue driving a car. I just checked online and it says this state does require this kind of test but I been living here for 15 years and never did it or heard of it. I plan to get it fixed or replaced with a used one. How do they choose the people that are required to do this test in this state?
So this light can be on all the time and I can still drive it? What should be the minimum of more miles I can still drive the car? I will be using it for about 60 miles a day.
I drove a car with a check engine light on for several years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritzui
How long does it have to be for the car to get on fire? Can the first number get low without affecting the other numbers? If it can last that long than that can last almost 5 more years if I drive it 60 miles a day. And how often should I be getting it tested? This means I would be paying 100 dollars every time I do this.
Compression issues will not cause a fire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritzui
Toyota Corolla 2008 CE. I live in GA. I never heard of someone have to do a test just to continue driving a car. I just checked online and it says this state does require this kind of test but I been living here for 15 years and never did it or heard of it. I plan to get it fixed or replaced with a used one. How do they choose the people that are required to do this test in this state?
Toyota Corolla 2008 CE. I live in GA. I never heard of someone have to do a test just to continue driving a car. I just checked online and it says this state does require this kind of test but I been living here for 15 years and never did it or heard of it. I plan to get it fixed or replaced with a used one. How do they choose the people that are required to do this test in this state?
Georgia only requires it in the metro atlanta area not state wide. The counties are Cherokee, Clayton, Cobb, Coweta, DeKalb, Douglas, Fayette, Forsyth, Fulton, Gwinnett, Henry, Paulding and Rockdale County. If that is not one of your counties you are safe; or move to South Carolina they have none.
Is there anyway that this engine won't last that long? Someone said it should last up to 300,000 so that would mean if I use 60 miles every day 7 days a week that it should last at least 4 more years? Anyway it might not even last 6 more months, meaning that the below minimum number which is now 140 somehow gets really low very fast without me even using 10,000 more miles? I have over 88,000 miles left until it reaches 300,000.
He did more than replace the sensor 2 times. He checked the cable and tested the wires. He checked and tested every single thing that could be causing it. I am not going to pay for a diagnostic. It's already done. I am not even working. I will pay more only if I have to.
Checking the cable and replacing sensors doesn’t mean he fixed anything. He could be replacing perfectly good sensors and not fixing the root cause of the issue. It could be diagnosed incorrectly which is what it sounds like to me. Air or vaccum leaks can cause the MAF sensor to send a code. Basically the MAF sensor “counts” the air that’s going into the engine and sends the info to your computer where the computer adjusts the amount of fuel and spark timing etc from that info and various other sensors. Unless the mechanic put the car under a diagnostic computer he’s just guessing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritzui
They told me the engine has to be replaced. Inspection found engine compression low (140, 160, 160, 160). Minimum is 145PSI. Max Diviation is 15PSI/Engine Low compression causing poor combustion and system too lean issues/fuel trims running +20-40%. The Computer Engine Control was fine they said.
Sorry but bs. Dealer is simply trying to sell you a engine. For all you know you have a stuck piston ring on one cylinder. Pour a teaspoon of marvel mystery oil in that cylinder through the spark plug hole and let it sit a bit then take a compression reading. If it goes up you may have a worn ring. Check it later and see if it went up. You could just of freed up that ring too.
Checking the cable and replacing sensors doesn’t mean he fixed anything. He could be replacing perfectly good sensors and not fixing the root cause of the issue. It could be diagnosed incorrectly which is what it sounds like to me. Air or vaccum leaks can cause the MAF sensor to send a code. Basically the MAF sensor “counts” the air that’s going into the engine and sends the info to your computer where the computer adjusts the amount of fuel and spark timing etc from that info and various other sensors. Unless the mechanic put the car under a diagnostic computer he’s just guessing.
Sorry but bs. Dealer is simply trying to sell you a engine. For all you know you have a stuck piston ring on one cylinder. Pour a teaspoon of marvel mystery oil in that cylinder through the spark plug hole and let it sit a bit then take a compression reading. If it goes up you may have a worn ring. Check it later and see if it went up. You could just of freed up that ring too.
I don't know anything about cars so I guess I will just get the testing done every 3 months or so.
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