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Old 04-07-2021, 09:18 AM
 
457 posts, read 216,242 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turf3 View Post
OK finally we get the story.
The story was posted numerous times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turf3 View Post
Original cover doesn't have a drain plug, you can't get the one in the cast housing out, so you want a sheet metal cover with drain plug, which is not original to the car.
That is correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turf3 View Post
Revert to what I said. You need a drain plug assembly that has an outer shell that goes through a hole in the cover, which can be sealed to the cover with JB Weld, other epoxy products, or brazing. Pipe threads are NOT going to seal in a 0.020" thick cover. Then the actual removable plug seals to the outer shell with pipe threads (or, possibly, a gasket) so it's readily removable.

Or, you could drill another hole in the cast housing, tap it with a pipe tap, and then carefully wash out all the chips.
You are suggesting a drain plug without threads to insert into the cover opening? There are some drain plugs with and some without.
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Old 04-07-2021, 04:33 PM
 
Location: Texas
821 posts, read 461,111 times
Reputation: 2099
Yes you can put a small amount of silicone on the smaller plug with pipe threads. Will work the same as thread locker compounds like loc-tite. I just put that option out there in case you didn't have thread locker. Or you can peen a couple of threads.
Any method of providing interference to the threads so the plug doesn't back out will work. Probably even finger nail polish or the like will work. As long as you don't fully coat the threads or use like "Red" loc-tite the plug with come out easily in the future with a wrench but won't be able to vibrate out during operation. If you use red loc-tite, epoxy, J-B Weld etc. you're going to probably have to heat the plug with a torch to be able to unscrew it. This is the little pipe plug I'm talking about.
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:38 AM
 
11,230 posts, read 9,246,568 times
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You're not going to be able to tap pipe threads into a piece of sheet metal and get it to seal.

You have to have a two part assembly, one part being an exterior shell that mounts (non removably) to the sheet metal part and is permanently sealed to it; this other part being a plug that threads removably into the shell. You only want to use teflon tape on the removable plug's tapered pipe threads, or alternately it may have straight threads and a gasket in which case of course you don't use any sealant at all.
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Old 04-08-2021, 09:34 AM
 
457 posts, read 216,242 times
Reputation: 448
Thanks guys.

I guess there is no simple fix with the current setup.

It's either buy a new cover/gasket, drill another hole, and see if I can find some type of drain plug assembly that will work as well as seal the exterior plug (thanks Turf and Amil).

Or just dish out the cash and buy the after market cover with the fill plug already there. Not sure why they are so damn expensive but it is what it is.

Either way, it's getting done this weekend. Tired of dragging this out lol.
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Old 04-08-2021, 10:04 AM
 
11,230 posts, read 9,246,568 times
Reputation: 32251
I don't think you need to buy a second replacement cover.

Take out whatever you've got in the cover now.

Go to a good hardware store and buy a "reducer bushing" with 1/4 NPT female threads on the inside, and whatever size threads on the OD will interfere with the hole you've got. Also a 1/4 NPT pipe plug.

Clean everything with acetone, glop JB Weld all over the male threads of the OD of the bushing, thread it into the sheet metal. Wipe off excess and then form a good solid bead of JBW on the inside to make a good solid oil tight seal.

Wait for JBW to cure COMPLETELY (24 hrs) then screw the 1/4 NPT pipe plug into the ID of the bushing, using teflon tape to seal it.

Now you'll have a removable plug that is also oil tight.
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Old 04-08-2021, 10:18 AM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan
30,707 posts, read 79,590,461 times
Reputation: 39445
I run into the same types of things a lot. It is a PIA to jack up a car in a gravel driveway, and a bigger PIA to lay under a car in gravel, even with a pad, some part of you will stick over or roll off it. Every nut o bolt or socket hits the gravel and instantly disappears. Then there is hunting for tools, running into the house to re-watch the video on how to do the whatever,

I have bad knees, a back issue and now apparently an old rotator cuff injury making a grand reappearance, so it all hurts like hell as well. Then we have the fact that I have maybe four to eight hours on a weekend that I can spend working on a car, but I am guaranteed to get interrupted a dozen or more times.

Now I limit my DIY things to just a few types of work. Really easy quickie work like light headlights, fuses, easy to access electrical parts, or blinkers (and blinker fluids); brakes (very easy and extremely costly at a shop), things I can do standing up or inside the cockpit without laying upside-down on the floor,

I do not do oil changes anymore. For the $10 savings on labor, going to the store to get materials, finding th necessary tools, and most critically disposing of the old oil (I forget for weeks or months and then usually end up spilling in whatever I use to transport it, plus spill some pouring it into the container. Then you have the hassle of Jacking and laying in a gravel driveway, plus cleaning everything up. All said and done it is a couple of hours of time. Or, I can spend $10 more and take it to a good drive though place that I found and be out of there in less then ten minutes.

I do shocks, but not struts unitless they are Unistrut. I do my own suspension parts because we have to replace those so often in Michigan the labor cost would kill us. But then I take it in for alignment.

I rarely do tune ups anymore either. too often the plugs are inaccessible and it becomes a two or three weekend job. On my truck you have to remeove some major part (brake booster I think), my sones car you have to rmeove a manifld to get to the rear plugs,
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Old 04-08-2021, 10:44 AM
 
457 posts, read 216,242 times
Reputation: 448
Quote:
Originally Posted by turf3 View Post
I don't think you need to buy a second replacement cover.

Take out whatever you've got in the cover now.

Go to a good hardware store and buy a "reducer bushing" with 1/4 NPT female threads on the inside, and whatever size threads on the OD will interfere with the hole you've got. Also a 1/4 NPT pipe plug.

Clean everything with acetone, glop JB Weld all over the male threads of the OD of the bushing, thread it into the sheet metal. Wipe off excess and then form a good solid bead of JBW on the inside to make a good solid oil tight seal.

Wait for JBW to cure COMPLETELY (24 hrs) then screw the 1/4 NPT pipe plug into the ID of the bushing, using teflon tape to seal it.

Now you'll have a removable plug that is also oil tight.
Thanks for the detailed steps. I think I will give it a shot and see what happens.
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Old 04-08-2021, 10:47 AM
 
457 posts, read 216,242 times
Reputation: 448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldjensens View Post
I run into the same types of things a lot. It is a PIA to jack up a car in a gravel driveway, and a bigger PIA to lay under a car in gravel, even with a pad, some part of you will stick over or roll off it. Every nut o bolt or socket hits the gravel and instantly disappears. Then there is hunting for tools, running into the house to re-watch the video on how to do the whatever,

I have bad knees, a back issue and now apparently an old rotator cuff injury making a grand reappearance, so it all hurts like hell as well.
Same here! (at least with rotator cuff and knees) My old rotator cuff injury has resurfaced since messing with this and my knees have been bothering me as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldjensens View Post
Then we have the fact that I have maybe four to eight hours on a weekend that I can spend working on a car, but I am guaranteed to get interrupted a dozen or more times.

Now I limit my DIY things to just a few types of work. Really easy quickie work like light headlights, fuses, easy to access electrical parts, or blinkers (and blinker fluids); brakes (very easy and extremely costly at a shop), things I can do standing up or inside the cockpit without laying upside-down on the floor,

I do not do oil changes anymore. For the $10 savings on labor, going to the store to get materials, finding th necessary tools, and most critically disposing of the old oil (I forget for weeks or months and then usually end up spilling in whatever I use to transport it, plus spill some pouring it into the container. Then you have the hassle of Jacking and laying in a gravel driveway, plus cleaning everything up. All said and done it is a couple of hours of time. Or, I can spend $10 more and take it to a good drive though place that I found and be out of there in less then ten minutes.

I do shocks, but not struts unitless they are Unistrut. I do my own suspension parts because we have to replace those so often in Michigan the labor cost would kill us. But then I take it in for alignment.

I rarely do tune ups anymore either. too often the plugs are inaccessible and it becomes a two or three weekend job. On my truck you have to remeove some major part (brake booster I think), my sones car you have to rmeove a manifld to get to the rear plugs,
This all makes sense. I never bother with oil changes but I think I will have similar guidelines after this ordeal.
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Old 04-09-2021, 07:50 AM
 
457 posts, read 216,242 times
Reputation: 448
Quote:
Originally Posted by turf3 View Post
I don't think you need to buy a second replacement cover.

Take out whatever you've got in the cover now.

Go to a good hardware store and buy a "reducer bushing" with 1/4 NPT female threads on the inside, and whatever size threads on the OD will interfere with the hole you've got. Also a 1/4 NPT pipe plug.

Clean everything with acetone, glop JB Weld all over the male threads of the OD of the bushing, thread it into the sheet metal. Wipe off excess and then form a good solid bead of JBW on the inside to make a good solid oil tight seal.

Wait for JBW to cure COMPLETELY (24 hrs) then screw the 1/4 NPT pipe plug into the ID of the bushing, using teflon tape to seal it.

Now you'll have a removable plug that is also oil tight.
I was looking for the reducer bushing as well as the pipe plug, but these parts are very similar to what I am already using:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...150/11992200-P



The smaller bolt screws into the larger bolt, which is attached to the cover.

Couldn't I just remove this bolt, re-attach, and go through the same process? Or am I missing something?
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Old 04-09-2021, 08:53 AM
 
11,230 posts, read 9,246,568 times
Reputation: 32251
If what you already have is more or less what's picture, then do as you said - take the part on the left out (there's very little chance of getting a good seal on a non flat piece of thin sheet metal with a fiber gasket and coarse threads), clean everything to within an inch of its life, then reinstall it using JB Weld or equivalent to make a solid seal and give the joint mechanical stability. The fiber gasket will be soaked with oil so toss it. Epoxy won't adhere to anything that's oily.

Then you can install the pipe plug shown on the right, with teflon tape around the threads, and you'll have an oil tight seal.
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