Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
If you ever drive a water-cooled car that has water *and* oil temp gauges, you will see that the water temp is pretty much up to spec within 2 miles, while the oil takes more like 5 to 7 miles.
Not in winter. A cold V8 engine takes at least 10 miles of driving to get the water temp gage at the normal operating temp.
Once it's near or below zero, it's not just fog that's the issue. Moisture from your breath will literally freeze on the inside of the windshield, and the best-functioning defroster in the world can't do anything about it until it starts blowing warm air. When it's that cold out, it is necessary to at least get enough heat in the cabin to prevent interior window freezing from happening, unless you want to drive around with an opaque windshield (not recommended).
True. I think some of this conversation has to do with "how cold is cold" as well. It was 4 when I left my house this morning, but I had ran the car for about 10-15 minutes while I cleared all of the snow and ice off. If there is no snow and ice I have never had a problem, even on single digit days (its rarely ever below zero here), getting in the car and just driving it. By the time I have been in the car anywhere near long enough to have the moisture from my breath freezing on the windshield, it is starting to blow warmer air.
Anyway, as for the subject on hand, here in Minnesota it's a big issue - unlike CA's Central Coast. On some mornings (those which are literally -20° F or colder - NOT windchill) I actually let it warm up for half and hour or so - and it still drives crappy. As a result my gas mileage goes way down in the winter.
If you use synthetic motor oil, long warm ups are not necessary.
If you use synthetic motor oil, long warm ups are not necessary.
This has nothing to do with the situation described in the post you quoted.
Or anything else, for that matter. In cold weather you should use a low-viscosity or dual-viscosity motor oil. Running straight 50 weight in the upper Midwest in the winter is a bad idea regardless of whether it's synthetic or dino oil.
This has nothing to do with the situation described in the post you quoted.
Or anything else, for that matter. In cold weather you should use a low-viscosity or dual-viscosity motor oil. Running straight 50 weight in the upper Midwest in the winter is a bad idea regardless of whether it's synthetic or dino oil.
Where, pray tell, are you getting straight 50 weight oil?
On my vehicles, in temperatures lower than 45 or so I just pump the foot feed once which snaps the choke shut and sets the fast idle and only let it idle long enough to come off fast idle then start driving.
On my vehicles, in temperatures lower than 45 or so I just pump the foot feed once which snaps the choke shut and sets the fast idle and only let it idle long enough to come off fast idle then start driving.
Am I right in assuming you're talking about a vehicle with a carburetor, rather than a fuel injected vehicle?
As mentioned above, oil is the main factor to consider. Friction wear on cyl. walls and bearings. Most car companies have tried to remedy this by changing the oil viscosity. Ever notice how a newer car revs a little up on start up then idles back down. That is to get that new thinner oil pumped.
I used to think this was true too, but I think you will find that the high idle in older cars was related to keeping the car from dying when first started. On a new car, it is done to heat up the primary catalytic converter so that the engine pollutes less earlier.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
