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The easiest way to run 12's; a 428 or 455 Pontiac, in a LeMans or Tempest (the Firebirds have just gotten too high price wise) Use the Melling SPC-8 cam (replacement for the factory Ram Air IV cam), use a 3.23 or 3.42 rear gear, th400 trans, 275/60/15's on the rear. You can use a factory pre egr 4 bbl intake, 77-78 400 QJet from a T/A, and 4 tube Heddman headers with a 2 1/2" exhaust system. The 455 will shift at 5100rpm, so stock bottomend is ok. The 428 wants to be shifted at 5600 rpm first to second, 5300 rpm second to drive. Use 6X (1975 up) 350 or 400 heads with the larger exhaust valves put in(1.77" vs. stock 1.66"), and use the stock 428 heads with the 2.11"/1.77" valves. You need a cheap 3000 convertor with the 428, and a 2400 rated convertor with the 455. Set timing at 35 degrees total for the 428, 32 total for the 455. Very simple to build, and less money than the getto large dia. wheels these kids buy for their civics and corollas.
I have a black Lincoln LS with black interior, with the 285hp V8. Not much you can do to it without spending lots of $$ or potentially screwing it up.
I was considering installing "performance exhaust" (i.e. flowmasters or something) or tinting the windows, but I don't really want to spend the money. It is expensive enough fixing the little B.S. things that break, window regulators, traction control sensors, etc.
If there were a way to significantly increase fuel efficiency, I might consider that. Do those "Performance Chips", high-flow exhaust, or improved air intake systems improve gas mileage?
Since I got my new Camry I have been thinking of adding some mods to it. My toy was an 02 Civic Si hatchback which went from a daily driver to a heavily modified little hot rod.
Since the Camry is seen mostly as a family car, I was thinking about upgrading to HID headlights & foglights, set of TRD lowering springs, 18 inch wheels. Intake/exhaust and engine mods (turbo) are optional but I'm willing to go ahead with it.
If you guys had the means, would modify/upgrade your ride?
I would not modify a daily driver. (ie a car who's only job is to make it back and fort between home and work or the grocery store.) To me it's pointless. It's a depreciating asset that I really only care to keep up the maintenance on. Eventually I'm going to have to sell it or trade it for something else anyway so why bother messing around with modifications that a lot of buyers steer clear of.
However I would modify a weekend fun toy that stays under cover in the garage on the work days.
I'll make a correction on my earlier post, I don't modify our vehicles other than maybe wheels and such but I do modify my motorcycles slightly, pipe and jet kit plus suspension work.
I've resisted the urge to modify my Formula and my wife's GTP. This is very hard because I'm a hot rodder to the core! For one thing,my wife has a very heavy foot even though she only weighs 100 pounds! Both cars are decently quick so I've left both of them alone.
Now as for my '64 C10,there's not an original drivetrain part on it!
If you guys had the means, would modify/upgrade your ride?
For resale purposes, selling a modified car is a bit like selling a home with a swimming pool. You will definitely lessen the number of potential buyers in any resale market by doing extensive modification. However, if you will enjoy the vehicle much more, resale may not be a concern. I have a GMC Sierra truck whose front end, suspension, tires and wheels, and engine have been extensively modified.
I will just add that for me when buying a new used vehicle, the first thing I look at is whether or not the car or truck has been kept relatively stock. Extensive modification usually sends me and my money running, especially if mods have been performed on the electronics.
The easiest way to run 12's; a 428 or 455 Pontiac, in a LeMans or Tempest (the Firebirds have just gotten too high price wise) Use the Melling SPC-8 cam (replacement for the factory Ram Air IV cam), use a 3.23 or 3.42 rear gear, th400 trans, 275/60/15's on the rear. You can use a factory pre egr 4 bbl intake, 77-78 400 QJet from a T/A, and 4 tube Heddman headers with a 2 1/2" exhaust system. The 455 will shift at 5100rpm, so stock bottomend is ok. The 428 wants to be shifted at 5600 rpm first to second, 5300 rpm second to drive. Use 6X (1975 up) 350 or 400 heads with the larger exhaust valves put in(1.77" vs. stock 1.66"), and use the stock 428 heads with the 2.11"/1.77" valves. You need a cheap 3000 convertor with the 428, and a 2400 rated convertor with the 455. Set timing at 35 degrees total for the 428, 32 total for the 455. Very simple to build, and less money than the getto large dia. wheels these kids buy for their civics and corollas.
Thats "easy"?
Easier still is to find a used Civic h/b, yank the motor and put in the Prelude's H22, then buy a turbo kit for it. Get some proper tires and VOILA! Cheap 12 sec speed, wrapped in a total sleeper package.
Easier still is to find a used Civic h/b, yank the motor and put in the Prelude's H22, then buy a turbo kit for it. Get some proper tires and VOILA! Cheap 12 sec speed, wrapped in a total sleeper package.
Well 12GO wrote alot but basically he is just saying buy a 70's big block car and change the cam and heads and maybe the rear gear change. You can do that with a small block car as well - cam, exhaust, and head change. All for less than $2,000 for both our options, most of that is the heads. Parts are cheap for chevy small blocks, and anyone with mid-level car skills can do it.
You're option say change entire engine, and in most cases you would need a professional to do it like a shop or something.
But along with that, you are still stuck with the limitations of front wheel drive, and, must would not like to admit, but a 12 second 4 cylinder will not be as reliable and long lived as a 12 second four bolt iron block 8 cylinder engine, because you will be stressing an engine far greater than what it was meant for, nor will it be as fun with the lack of torque. You get tired of revving a car to 8,000 RPM to get any horsepower out of it.
Really, you can also just strap on a $500 nitrous kit to any 4 cylinder and get a 12 second car. They last maybe 6 or 7 runs. Can't even tell you how many kids I've heard that blow up there rides doing that.
You get people that have put alot of money in making a reliable and really cool looking 12 second civic that you see at the shows and sometimes the strip. For the money they put in those cars they could have bought a couple 11 second 2009 model Z06 corvettes in an unmodified off the showroom floor state. But I understand the hobby and the interest and challenge in making a small economy car fast and appluad it, but it's not for everyone.
Since I got my new Camry I have been thinking of adding some mods to it. My toy was an 02 Civic Si hatchback which went from a daily driver to a heavily modified little hot rod.
Since the Camry is seen mostly as a family car, I was thinking about upgrading to HID headlights & foglights, set of TRD lowering springs, 18 inch wheels. Intake/exhaust and engine mods (turbo) are optional but I'm willing to go ahead with it.
If you guys had the means, would modify/upgrade your ride?
Not with most of the mods you mention.
Better lights, yes. Better tires, yes. Better anti-roll bars, yes. Better shocks/struts such as Konis or Bilsteins, yes.
I personally see no need or advantage in reduced height springs, 18" wheels IMO are not only absurd but decrease stability particularly at highway speeds, and reduce MPG due to the fat patch you have to push down the road. Not to mention 18" tires are far more expensive than 15s or 16s.
If I wanted a turbo'd motor I'd buy one the factory designed, put together, and warrantied.
I have been around many forums where many folks, some with a great deal of knowledge and ability, did many mods. Often, not always, they ran into serious reliability problems.
The first requirement for my car is to start every time I turn the key, and to take me to my destination every time I put it in gear. Anything that compromises those capabilities, not to mention the warranty, is to me an unacceptable compromise of its primary mission.
My tires are slightly skinnier and taller than stock, so instead of 6.3" of ground clearance, I have about 6.7". That came in really handy during the two weeks of record snowfall we had, and I doubt I'd have gone very far with a 4.8" ground clearance running 205.45.18s.
Different priorities for different folks. Knock yourself out if that's what floats your boat.
OP it depends if you plan on keeping the car. If your keeping it til the wheels fall off then mod. If your planning to sell it...its better to leave it stock or small mods so it won't lower value. The Camry is an economical car anyways so performance mods will reduce efficiency.
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