How can I tell if CV joints are worn? (brake, tire, replace)

[Visvaldis]

How can I tell if CV joints are worn?
I have a 1998 Ford Escort, 5 speed. I try to do as much work on it myself as possible. Sometimes I hear a slight clunking sound when backing up, and one tire feels as though it ran over a small object when none is there. When driving forward at a low speed (30mph) I turn the steering wheel quickly left and right. The car should lurch from side to side. It does, but not as hard as I think it should (Is this maybe a rack & pinion problem?). I have checked to see if the bolts connecting the motor and tans-axle are tight. Is there a way I can check if the CV joints are worn without taking the wheel apart? BTW, I don’t have the clicking sound when turning to indicate worn tie rods.
Any suggestions? I appreciate all advice. Thanks.

[marknir]

The noise that you hear is most likley a worn CV joint

[Omaha Rocks]

Originally Posted by Visvaldis

How can I tell if CV joints are worn?
I have a 1998 Ford Escort, 5 speed. I try to do as much work on it myself as possible. Sometimes I hear a slight clunking sound when backing up, and one tire feels as though it ran over a small object when none is there. When driving forward at a low speed (30mph) I turn the steering wheel quickly left and right. The car should lurch from side to side. It does, but not as hard as I think it should (Is this maybe a rack & pinion problem?). I have checked to see if the bolts connecting the motor and tans-axle are tight. Is there a way I can check if the CV joints are worn without taking the wheel apart? BTW, I don’t have the clicking sound when turning to indicate worn tie rods.
Any suggestions? I appreciate all advice. Thanks.

Look under the front of your car (you may need to jack it up). Find the front axles, and the black plastic/rubber boots on them. Those are the CV Joint Covers. If either of them is cracked and leaking grease, that's your problem.

From there it's really a process of elimination - looking at the specific parts to see if they're worn.

[M3 Mitch]

As a practical matter you generally get an exchange axle when the outer boot fails. Occasionally the inner boot fails first, but very rarely.

As a dedicated DIY guy, you probably have a manual with all the torque specs, I'd just point out that you generally should loosen the "big" axle nut before jacking the car, but don't loosen it completely, just maybe 1/4 turn, don't put the car's weight back on the wheel bearing without putting the axle in and at least partially tightening the nut, now is the time to take a hard look at the tie rod and the ball joint on this side of the car, you will have them most of the way to dismounting so if they are going to need replacement now would be a good time.

Brake pads too, although they are very easy to change.....but I'd have a set on hand unless you have already verified yours are fine (remember the inner one usually wears more...)

Also take a look at the output shaft seal for this side, you will have a good chance to replace it if it's leaking. Some people want to pre-emptively change seals like this when they are accessible. Generally I leave well enough alone *if* there is no sign of leakage. But I can see the opposing point of view's merits.

[frankgn87]

clicking on turns and clunking tells you the cv joints are worn.