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Location: Democratic Peoples Republic of Redneckistan
11,078 posts, read 15,078,355 times
Reputation: 3937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch
The 400 or even 600 grit sandpaper is very fine, Eagle I think you are thinking of sandpaper that you would use on wood, which is about 5X coarser than what I am suggesting. Do what Muleskinner suggests, with the 5-gallon bucket and one drop of dish soap (Dawn is very good for this) and you will have to work carefully, you can do this with your hand but a sanding block would be better. Look out for any crease lines like usually go down the middle of the hood, it's very easy to cut through to bare metal.
I am thinking you have no auto body work experience at all, you can save yourself some grief by getting an instructional DVD from Larry Lyles outfit (Google him).
If you cut through to bare metal you can mask off around the hood and go with the black primer, it would probably look better than what you have.
If you painted it with Rust-Oleum, I am 99% certain you won't be getting that off with anything chemical short of paint thinner...
Keep in mind that your original paint is very likely lacquer. So you run the risk of the thinner eating into the original paint as well if you go this route. Then again, lacquer thinner is mostly acetone, so if you already tried that and it didn't work, it probably still won't work.
You are most likely going to have to take Skinner and Mitch's advice, and sand it down. There is another alternative, though. Your blotchiness is probably due to inadequate coverage. You could get a *decent* paint job of it if you go ahead and buy several more cans of the same paint and put on several coats, making sure that you overlap each stroke by at least 50%. Your trigger finger is going to be very sore when you are done. Make sure you clean off the WD-40 first. THOROUGHLY.
Rustoleum is oil based paint. So anything you try to do now will have to involve oil based product.
Orbital sander with 160 grit emery cloth. Rinse it well in the sun with your garden hose, and let dry well. Get a can of Acetone and saturate a cotton t shirt well with it, and start wiping it down, but wear nitrile gloves, as this solvent is harsh, and will dry quickly. Keep doing so until you hood wipes clean. Prime well in a clean room with Rustoleum flat gray industrial enamel. Recoat within an hour 2 more times. Let dry for a day, then lightly buff with 200 grit emery. This will remove what ever trash was dried onto it over this time. You now will be able to apply your top coats of rattle can paint, preferably the same Rustoleum industrial enamel. I used high gloss, and Sherwin Williams auto clear coat rattle. Be sure your area is preferably in negative preasure and clean. This will give you an ultimate over the counter paint job on your hood if done correctly.
Yesterday i spray painted the hood of my 85 olds. I used a can of regular spray paint & it looks worse then it did before. Its all blotchy & looks like i used a can of spray paint.
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
44,570 posts, read 81,147,605 times
Reputation: 57788
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnamed
The forum itself prompts you to do that rather than create a new thread.
But yeah +1 on plastidip as an easy to apply alternative that is out there now.
I used it recently on my plastic chrome grill, and it looks great, has survived the cold down to 17F and no sign of bug or pebble chips so far. The best thing about it is not being glossy, any future problems can be easily touched up without showing.
The forum itself prompts you to do that rather than create a new thread.
Sure, if you're looking to solve a similar problem, not one from long ago. And yes, I do realize I've added to the activity of this thread which will probably keep it going a while longer.
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