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I have a 2000 Chevy tracker with about 160K miles on it. Runs great but recently I had a pretty bad overheat.
It looks like a lower pully failed...causing coolant to stop flowing through the engine. I did not completely overheat (head gasket is ok) but the radiator did crack. Here is the esitmate from the mechanic..
Radiator (incl labor) - 360
Pully/labor - 445 (part from dealer)
thermostat - 22
new water pump - 110
labor on water pump - 95
(the water pump is ok but is the original...I figured its good to replace and not have to go back in 6 months)
total is about $1050 incl labor. thanks for any input.
Just an FYI.. there is a huge difference in labor cost between the 1.6L and 2.0L engine when it comes to the water pump. Make sure you get quoted for the correct one. The labor time for the 2.0L is 1.5 unit versus the 1.6L which is 4.4 unit.
Just an FYI.. there is a huge difference in labor cost between the 1.6L and 2.0L engine when it comes to the water pump. Make sure you get quoted for the correct one. The labor time for the 2.0L is 1.5 unit versus the 1.6L which is 4.4 unit.
Good point. I have the smaller engine...but the guy is charging me 2 hrs labor because he had to get in there anyway.
Seems high to me but some of these late models are a bear to work on. A hint as to what region/state you are in would help put the cost in context - high cost of living areas mean high costs for any work done there too. In the Northeastern People's Republics some 10-15% of whatever you pay ends up going to Big Brother, one way or another, as well.
My only semi-useful comment would be to go on and replace at least the 2 big radiator hoses, this should not cost you anything for labor, since it's no more work to put the new ones on. Ditto any belts that come off - you may want to keep the old belt and put in the trunk, it's better than nothing, as a spare. Even if you can't do the belt yourself, you may be able to get someone to put it on rather than wait for parts (having said that, I wouldn't want to pay shop rate to install a used wear part unless the wait for a new part was not tolerable...)
Is it worth sinking a G in to a 10 yr. old vehicle with a less than stellar track record though?
That is a really good question - in the rust belt it would probably be marginal.
Really depends on the condition of the rest of the car, how well the car meets the current owner's needs, the willingness of someone else to buy it and fix it themselves.
Here in the high desert, my daily driver is 27 years old, the engine may not be original (although it's year-correct for the car) and has been "refreshed" (rings and bearings only replaced) about 150K miles ago. Runs like a champ though.
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