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So I understand that you negotiate the price of the car based on what the invoice is.. I talked to other people who have purchased cars in the past but I still don't understand... once you negotiate the price, is that it? Cause that's what they made it appear to be... Are there "other" fees? What about sales tax? I asked them and they said they got a loan before going to the dealership... negotiated on the price, put a down payment, and finance the rest (what the agreed on price was minus the down payment) with the loan and walked out... is that it? No sales tax? Or was that included in the invoice? I am using Edmunds TMV, I don't think that it accounts for sales tax... or does it?
If you are uncomfortable negotiating for the car and are also a Costco member, try their buying service.
FWIW, I pointed out several other options besides this particular vehicle new. Just sayin'.
If you have the jack to buy it and want it, OK, fine - but if you get it for $38K, let's say you do - you will still take a $3000 hit right on the chin when you drive it off the lot. That depreciation is even more inevitable than the taxes on the car.
You could buy a non-hybrid version of this car maybe 1 or 2 years old, there must be 100 of them closer to your home than this particular car, after a good detail job you would be hard-pressed to find a scratch or any dirt, the money you would save here would pay for the extra gas that the 'regular' truck would burn out to probably 20 years of ownership (assuming the price of gas does not go completely nuts - in that case you would probably park either truck anyway)
Not a Costco member, I can't understand paying an annual fee for simply buying in bulk, they aren't really cheaper than grocery stores... but I divulge...
Well, I compared a typical SUV with a mpg of 18 mpg and then compared it to the Mariner with a mpg of 30 mpg... the cost difference (after all options) was about $3-4k... Comparing current gas prices at $2.50 per gallon, it would take me about 33k miles before I broke even with a Mercury Mariner to a similar equipped SUV... that means after driving 33k miles, I am saving money with the Mercury Mariner... So in the short term, it seems I will be saving money... in the long term, so far by results, a lot of hybrid cars have lasted a long time and some over 200k miles... so it seems battery life won't be a major issue with the Mariner Hybrid...
While its true I could save loads of money such as a 2007 Mercury Mariner Hybrid would cost 20k (saving potentially 15k+ in money) but I have had bad experiences with used cars... unscrupulous dealers and private owners have sold me lemons in the past and I am not willing to go through that experience ever again... the only reliable cars I have had in the past were brand new ones so I am sticking with that...
The only alternative for myself would be "which" car to buy... I do like the Volkswagen Tiguan but its low mpg, small cargo space, and use of "premium" unleaded gas is a turnoff...
FWIW a properly designed engine that uses premium should give you a lower cost per mile - the price differential between premium and regular (around here) is $0.20, that's about 7% if I am doing the math in my head right. If you keep your foot out of the high-test using motor, you should get 10% or more better MPG.
I guess if you are determined to buy new, if the hybrid "only" costs you $3K more, and assuming it takes you from 18 to 80 MPG (big assumption), then it makes sense to get the hybrid.
Be aware of the "Hide Your Keys" ploy. If you are trading in a car, the salesman will ask to assess and drive your car while you are negotiating the price with a different person. What happens is the salesman never returns with your keys. If you try to walk out of the negotiation and ask for your keys, the dealership somehow can't "locate the salesman" who tested your car. They will tell you "He is helping someone else right now, I don't know where he is, let me page him" This is a stalling tactic and they will make you wait 30 minutes if not longer before they give you your keys.
Never let the salesman test your car without you in it so that you can get your keys after he is done. Or before you hand it to him, you can jokingly say "Now you aren't going to the hide those keys from me and you will bring it back right away" letting him know you are aware of such a ploy.
Be aware of the "Hide Your Keys" ploy. If you are trading in a car, the salesman will ask to assess and drive your car while you are negotiating the price with a different person. What happens is the salesman never returns with your keys. If you try to walk out of the negotiation and ask for your keys, the dealership somehow can't "locate the salesman" who tested your car. They will tell you "He is helping someone else right now, I don't know where he is, let me page him" This is a stalling tactic and they will make you wait 30 minutes if not longer before they give you your keys.
Never let the salesman test your car without you in it so that you can get your keys after he is done. Or before you hand it to him, you can jokingly say "Now you aren't going to the hide those keys from me and you will bring it back right away" letting him know you are aware of such a ploy.
Or, since people get so irritable about dealerships dragging their feet, let them appraise the car, and if they start pulling bull**** like that, pull out your cell phone and call the cops.
Honestly, I've NEVER left a dealership feeling as though I got a GREAT deal. There have been times I felt as though I got a fair deal, and other times where I felt absolutely violated, like a prison rape...walking out of there like "F*** what just happened?" "What did I do?!?"
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I see you're still the same fella I put on ignore. So back you go on ignore.
