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Got a new 2010 car with a clear-coat finish. I hear that wax is not as good to use anymore to protect today's cars.
Are acrylic paint conditioners better? I tried to research on the internet, but the same company name kept coming up, so I can't tell if all the "advice" is just advertising from that company.
Any REAL PEOPLE have experience with acrylic paint conditioners? What do you think of it, vs. old-fashoned wax? Which is better?
i have my new car all waxed and shiny and it looks fine. idk what "not as good" means, but i am happy with my bi yearly carnauba waxings and bi weekly treatments of Meguiars Ultimate Quick Detailer
keeps my ride in "better then showroom" condition. and my car is known for a somewhat lacking factory paint job. so its all good
anyone else use a "quick detailer?" which one? and what sort of wax?
Location: Still in Portland, Oregon, for some reason
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If you really want the good stuff you have to look on the Internet. OTC stuff is okay but it isn't the best out there.
I use a sealant instead of a wax because it's slicker, offers superior protection and lasts up to six months instead of the 30 to 45 days that most waxes last. I use this: Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger - 16 oz | Detailed Image and it is AWESOME. Smells like blueberries, slicker than snot and lasts a good long time. I recommend claying before applying any sort of protection.
Oh, and in response to the original post, there is nothing bad about using wax on a vehicle with clearcoat paint. Some detailers I know choose to put wax on top of sealant because they like the glow that wax provides. You can't do it the other way around, though.
You can have your car wraped in clear vinyl (clear bra). The shop that just did my tint does pretty much every area you can think of that will get dings and chips for @$600. I'm thinking of having just my front fender and front section of my hood done...pretty much the area that a car bra covers.
if you've got a brand new car you don't need any "conditioner" that may contain harsh abrasives. Just use a decent spray-on wax from your local auto parts store (Meguiar's, Eagle One, Mother's, etc) and save your money for professional detailing every 3 or 4 months. The pros use high-speed polishers to buff out minor marring & microscratches and create a higher gloss than you could ever achieve just by rubbing with your hands (sorry Mr. Miyagi!)
You can have your car wraped in clear vinyl (clear bra). The shop that just did my tint does pretty much every area you can think of that will get dings and chips for @$600. I'm thinking of having just my front fender and front section of my hood done...pretty much the area that a car bra covers.
How is this made and/or applied? Are there brand names? What is the approximate cost for just the front end bug catching area?
For price, you'll have to talk to your shop. The tint shop I used, does a ton of spots for @$600 and the whole front plus mirrors for @$300. I didn't get an estimate for just the front bumper and slightly further back yet. You can also order a kit specifically cut for your car (well, at least there was one for mine) and apply it yourself. Or order a roll of the stuff and cut it yourself. I am not sure how many different companies makes it, but I know 3M makes it and I'd go with 3M. Also, you can get this stuff in many colors, not just clear.
This person used "Venture Shield" and it's from a couple years ago. I read 3M stuff is clear, no tint to it and it does not yellow over time. I am most diffinently getting this. My old beater has so much paint chip damage from tiny rocks and embedded bugs hitting all that area. I don't like the obvious transition to no protection area, but no doubt it looks better then the old leather bras people use to have on their cars....unless you're stuck in the 80's.
That protects from chipping, but to protect from the elements I hear a sealant is better. I've been wondering this too.
At this point my car sits for 4-5 days in the parking lot at the airport, and I cover it. However I would like to get some good protectant that will resist UV and keep the clearcoat from peeling.
That protects from chipping, but to protect from the elements I hear a sealant is better. I've been wondering this too.
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You're right, guess I am off topic (edit: maybe not since they do have clear ceramic tint that protects from UV light, not sure if these do as well). Honestly, I'd go here
Autopia.org Car Detailing Forum :: #1 in Auto Detailing Discussion! and read thier boards. Lots of knowledge there for paint protection. For me, I use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze products and I think this was the order I use it in (I don't actually use all of them, the fine cut #2 is not used at all really and for my new car I probably won't use the 105 at all)
These were made to be used with machine buffers btw. I've only done it once on my old beater for practice and it came out very nice, although alot of work for correcting. I decided to use a synthetic sealant and then wax on top of that. It was based on reading Autopia's boards and I think the reasoning was synthethetic sealant for long lasting protection and wax on top for the more deep lustorous look.
Bird poo....the only clear failure I have on my old beater are little areas that I think were bird poo that I left on the car for weeks before cleaning. I now carry around a microfiber cloth and Megguiars quick detailer and after allowing the area to cool, I clean bird poo same hour/day. I also do a "postdrive" inspection for bird poo, tar...whatever that will lead to bigger problems if not dealt with early.
Got a new 2010 car with a clear-coat finish. I hear that wax is not as good to use anymore to protect today's cars.
Are acrylic paint conditioners better? I tried to research on the internet, but the same company name kept coming up, so I can't tell if all the "advice" is just advertising from that company.
Any REAL PEOPLE have experience with acrylic paint conditioners? What do you think of it, vs. old-fashoned wax? Which is better?
I am retired and have two cars that are immaculate and the Chrysler 300C is 5 1/2 years old and looks brand new and people think it is new. I also have a Black Genesis that stays clean with a wet look unless it gets rained on which is rare unless we are traveling. They are both garage queens. I spent a good amount of money detailing them and have used a wide range of products. Here are some thoughts and some are rules of thumb.
Know the product and if it is a cleaner also or contains abrasives never use it over another product as you will take the other product off
Sealants from Wolfgang, Klasse and Pinnacle last longer than their wax products and will give you 90% of the shine. They are more expensive but you get what you pay for.
Layer, layer, layer products. I normally do 4-5 layers with the last layer being wax or Mothers Top Coat. Use a cleaner sealant like Klasse All In One for your first layer and then use either Klasse Sealant or Wolfgang Super Gloss Sealant or both. You can debate which was to use and there are a number of good ones and different camps on them. There are multiple forums from different sites and read and read and ask and ask.
The color of your car will be a major factor in what you use. Black and red are where you get the real wet look and other dark colors stand out. Those colors will have you spending more time and money to bring out their potential. You can spend a lot of money if you want and if you live in the south east and have an Autobell car wash near by get their unlimited plan if you want your car looking sharp all the time.
As the previous poster mentioned Autopia is another great forum.
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