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In my "Toy Hauler" thread I detail plans to AirBnB an 18' trailer in my RV parking space. I'm researching how to install permanent hookups for water, sewer, and power, and would like to get feedback from those who have done it. Keep in mind, this RV is going to be used by guests who I expect to not know/not follow/not care about the quirks of RV living. So I'm going to have to try to idiot-proof as much as possible, and plan to do cleanup/repairs often.
Power:
Seems pretty straightforward. I'm looking at 90's to early 2000's era 18-20' trailers, which will likely need 30A service. I plan to run (actually have an electrician run) a loop from my homes breaker box to an external outlet near the RV. The loop has to cross the house (box is on the opposite side from RV parking) so it'll probably go up through the attic before coming down to the outlet. It doesn't seem to make much difference if I put the outlet on the external wall of the house, or on a dedicated post--besides having to run underground conduit to the post (not a small expense).
I plan to use the RV's plug to pull power into the vehicle. This would be a permanent situation which I would inspect after every guest (at least weekly) for signs of wear/abuse/animal damage/etc. My biggest concern is fire in the flexible cord between the outlet and the RV. I'll probably replace the RV's cord initially (since it'll be about 10-15 years old when I acquire it). I don't want to hard-wire the RV to the loop, because I do intend to move it once or twice a year. However, that cord is going to be drawing power pretty constantly during the high season, when I'll likely have guests nearly every night, who will probably run the AC, oven, microwave, and six hairdryers all at once.
Thoughts?
Sewer:
This one is the toughie. Initially, I'm planning on plumbing (actually hiring a plumber) to build a dedicated 3" PVC dump line to my sewer cleanout. It's about 15' away from the RV, so I'll either need 4ish feet of fall, or a macerator or some form of booster pump. I was going to keep the marine/RV toilet and dump my black/grey water tanks like you would at an RV site. I've learned that you can't keep the black water dump lines open with an RV toilet.
This setup would be fine if it was just me or family using the RV, however, I expect my guests to completely abuse the plumbing. I'm sure I'll get all sorts of non-organic crap in the black water tank, which I will probably have to extract by hand, when it doesn't make it down the drain. I expect I'll have to rinse/spray/inspect the black water tank after every guest. Ugh. Well, that's what cleaning fees (and deposits) are for. Hopefully I can learn to see dollar signs with every ****-soaked tampon. This is also why I'm hoping to avoid a booster pump, because I'm afraid it'll get fouled with whatever crazy crap my guests flush. Any experience with macerators or sewage pumps? Can they obliterate condoms and tampons, or am I going to have a huge mess and a burned-up pump on a regular basis?
I could install a residential toilet and remove the black water tank, entirely. However that's not a project I want to take on, initially, and it may not be possible if I don't have enough fall to my cleanout, anyway. Also, it doesn't really solve any problems, except that of smelly RV toilets.
Suggestions?
Water:
This I just can't find much info on, so I hope it's as simple as it seems. I've got a hose bib 15' away, and seems like I can just run a potable water hose from that to my city water intake on the trailer. I'll probably put a pressure regulator on it as well, depending on the age/specs of the RV. The water is the same quality as what's in my house (softened and filtered). I could run 1" pvc for most of the 15', but I can't really see a reason to do so. Yeah, the hose will fail sooner than the PVC, but I'll be inspecting it at least weekly, so when it starts to deteriorate, I'll order another. Also, I'd need a short length of hose anyway, so why bother?
Gas:
Realized I forgot gas. Well, sort of. I want to forego gas. More than likely the trailer I purchase will initially have a gas range, water heater, and fridge, or some combination of the three. I intend to pull out any gas appliace and convert to all-electric. I just don't want guests dealing with gas. I don't want to deal with gas. I don't mind refilling removable propane tanks, but leaks and low-pressure scenarios--even with my diligent inspection checklist--haunt my dreams. Love to hear thoughts on this too.
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
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If this thing is going to be 'semi permanent', I would plumb in REAL household water fixtures and toilets that bypass the holding tanks. Much cheaper, easier to maintain and repair. and will last a LOT longer. (and hold up better to renter abuse)
GAS;... consider electric induction cooking (low current requirement and safe (not hot / fire danger)) and a wall mount 'mini split' for AC + heat (low power use, low cost).
You will likely need 50A if people are going to be living in it. Overnight Renters are know to use LOTS of power (they are not paying for it, or... feel they are paying DEARLY)
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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Make sure that's allowed by your HOA/city/county before you start spending all that money. I'm probably going to do the 30 amp plug on the side of the garage where our 25' is parked, for guests like the grandkids. We have no restrictions on parking it there but no one is allowed to "live" in a travel trailer or rent it out except for people towing it.
Make sure that's allowed by your HOA/city/county before you start spending all that money. I'm probably going to do the 30 amp plug on the side of the garage where our 25' is parked, for guests like the grandkids. We have no restrictions on parking it there but no one is allowed to "live" in a travel trailer or rent it out except for people towing it.
I don't have an HOA (yay!).
City codes allow the hook-ups for power and sewer as well as guest stays of restricted duration, which I can comply with and still make decent money.
I'm on the fence between the RV and converting part of my (already-small) house into a separate VRBO/AirBnB. Doing internal home renovations are about on the same order of expense and difficulty as building external hook-ups (and finding/buying/towing/rehabbing an older TT) I think.
RV Positives:
++ Guests stay out of the house and there's less noise/disruption from them (air gap between their dwelling and where I reside, instead of shared walls).
+ I get a TT.
+ I get more space and a nice outdoor area when I'm not renting it out. The older RV's I'm looking at are very pretty and really fit the outdoor space I'm building.
+ It's probably a little cheaper than renovating.
RV Negatives:
- I can't make as much money (charge less, less occupancy, potentially smaller willing customer base).
- There's more hassles from people who don't know how to RV (like me).
- I can't offer off-street parking (I could if I didn't put a TT in the space).
- There's more "gray" area when it comes to code enforcement.
- I don't RV yet, so I'm sure there's some gotchas coming.
In the end, it's probably going to come down to how much I like the TT's I tour, coupled with the quotes for the plumbing, wiring, and internal work. If one or the other is much more expensive and involved, then I'll pick the easier option. Unless I fall in love with one of the TT's and HAVE to have it.
Pulling a 30A 220V Can be costly just for the Wire. (And the longer the run The bigger the wire needs to be).
... I also agree with StealthRabbit that you will probably need more power then the 30A The AC itself will pull close that much of one side of the 220V line.
a 40-50A/220V is probably what you should be looking at.
And if you get a EV car in the future you can also use that outlet to charge it. (Well plug the charger into).
Pulling a 30A 220V Can be costly just for the Wire. (And the longer the run The bigger the wire needs to be).
... I also agree with StealthRabbit that you will probably need more power then the 30A The AC itself will pull close that much of one side of the 220V line.
a 40-50A/220V is probably what you should be looking at.
And if you get a EV car in the future you can also use that outlet to charge it. (Well plug the charger into).
Thanks for the advice. I want to run other stuff from an outlet on that side of the house (mostly lights) but I guess I'll need to run an additional standard 20A 120V loop for that.
Well, maybe I'll get lucky and I'll find a great trailer that runs on 120V shore power. That's not going to be the deciding factor, though.
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