
04-09-2009, 09:25 AM
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13,808 posts, read 25,944,879 times
Reputation: 14205
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Southern Gold is a local seed invented here.
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04-09-2009, 09:30 AM
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Location: Autumn Cove, Lake Wylie, SC
393 posts, read 1,138,321 times
Reputation: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gizmobizmo
Any thoughts on my plan so far? Advice? Mistakes I've made?
Any thoughts on the brands? Do I really need one designated for Deep Shade when it appears to be the same grass seed as the other one? Both Tall Fescue and 99.9% weed free.
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Your plan sounds fine. Keep the sod watered until it is rooted. Gently pull on the sod. If its does not pull up, its rooted. Start to water deep and infrequent.
I would aerate the entire yard in the fall and overseed. Then follow the schedule.
With seed, you get what you pay for. I like Rebel 100% fescue or Scotts. All you need is 100% tall fescue (not Kentucky-31 fescue) that's 99.9% weed free. Compare prices, you will see the cheaper stuff is usually a blend of fescue and ryegrass or Kentucky-31 and often not 99.9% weed free. Spluge if you must, you will see a difference.
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04-10-2009, 06:17 AM
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Location: Charlotte, NC
973 posts, read 3,194,093 times
Reputation: 1246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uber_bwnage
Your plan sounds fine. Keep the sod watered until it is rooted. Gently pull on the sod. If its does not pull up, its rooted. Start to water deep and infrequent.
I would aerate the entire yard in the fall and overseed. Then follow the schedule.
With seed, you get what you pay for. I like Rebel 100% fescue or Scotts. All you need is 100% tall fescue (not Kentucky-31 fescue) that's 99.9% weed free. Compare prices, you will see the cheaper stuff is usually a blend of fescue and ryegrass or Kentucky-31 and often not 99.9% weed free. Spluge if you must, you will see a difference.
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Thank you! 
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04-11-2009, 04:01 PM
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Location: Outside Charlotte
61 posts, read 107,543 times
Reputation: 68
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Ok, the million dollar question; how much does all the fertilizer, turfbuilder, and whatnot cost. I have about .33 of an acre, and TruGreen comes out and sprays seven times a year, I pay approx. $60 an application (aerating and seeding are extra). I'd love to stop paying them so much, but I just don't know if it would be cost effective, nor do I know if the results would be appreciably better by doing it myself.
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04-11-2009, 04:40 PM
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Location: Wouldn't you like to know?
9,116 posts, read 17,033,877 times
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uber, what's your opinion on whether to bag grass clippings or leave them on your lawn?
I always bag them, however every time I look at landscapers, they don't bag, and the lawn looks great...
Is the "thatch" that builds up an issue or not?
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04-11-2009, 09:48 PM
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277 posts, read 632,459 times
Reputation: 223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CouponJack
uber, what's your opinion on whether to bag grass clippings or leave them on your lawn?
I always bag them, however every time I look at landscapers, they don't bag, and the lawn looks great...
Is the "thatch" that builds up an issue or not?
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See publication for information on mowing.
http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publ...F/FSA-6023.pdf
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04-11-2009, 10:40 PM
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211 posts, read 678,245 times
Reputation: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89quattro
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Thanks, good bermudagrass info there...
So 89 quatto? 80, 90, 100?
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04-13-2009, 07:23 AM
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Location: Autumn Cove, Lake Wylie, SC
393 posts, read 1,138,321 times
Reputation: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CouponJack
uber, what's your opinion on whether to bag grass clippings or leave them on your lawn?
I always bag them, however every time I look at landscapers, they don't bag, and the lawn looks great...
Is the "thatch" that builds up an issue or not?
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Don't bag'em. Grass clippings are a free source of high-nitrogen that will make your grass greener.
Aerating cures any thatch buildup, so if you aerate annually in the fall, thatch will never be a problem.
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04-13-2009, 07:36 AM
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Location: Autumn Cove, Lake Wylie, SC
393 posts, read 1,138,321 times
Reputation: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiggin
Ok, the million dollar question; how much does all the fertilizer, turfbuilder, and whatnot cost. I have about .33 of an acre, and TruGreen comes out and sprays seven times a year, I pay approx. $60 an application (aerating and seeding are extra). I'd love to stop paying them so much, but I just don't know if it would be cost effective, nor do I know if the results would be appreciably better by doing it myself.
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My lot is a about the same size as yours. I buy a large bag (the one that covers 15,000 sq. ft.) of each type of fertilizer. That will get me two years per bag.
The average cost is about $20 per application of fertilizer (plus $20 one-time to buy a spreader if you don't have one). Seed is dependent on your need ($50 at the most once a year) and an aerator cost about $60 to rent for one day but you can split the use with a neighbor or two and each pay a piece. (I have 4 neighbors that I rent an aerator with so it cost us about $20 each a year to aerate our lawns).
I though about Trugreen myself, but the cost was much less for me to do it myself. The toughest part of DIY is the timing of when to apply the fertilizer. My advise would be mark on your calender when the Trugreen by comes. Then just copy the timing for your lawn, or just follow my guide in the first post.
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04-13-2009, 08:48 AM
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Location: NoDa
157 posts, read 768,989 times
Reputation: 155
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Uber,
Great post. Any chance you have pictures of your lawn? Would love to see what my lawn "could look like" if I follow your direction...
TIA
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