Gunnison or Steamboat Springs?? (Denver, Colorado Springs: ski resort, rentals, condos)

[sheila_917]

I've had an offer to move to either of these locations. I've read everything on net possible, but would like some first hand info, advise from someone who's been there or is there. I realize you can't believe everything you read.
I work for the Fed Gov't, single, in my 50's, woman, coming from Palm Springs, CA. VERY anxious to get out of CA (it's getting worse by the day!). My dream location is to live in the mountains. Would be renting, annual income about 45K. Not looking for nightlife or busy enviroment, mainly outdoors activities. Which of these cities, areas would be affordable? I'm OK with driving some, but have never lived in the snow, so maybe that's a little too optomistic on my part!
Any or all ideas, thoughts or info would be appreciated. Thanks

[Mike from back east]

Sheila, either one will be a paradise for mountain lovers. Steamboat is in the northern part of the state and has some breathtaking scenery, lots of snow and some good year round mountain sports. Gunnison is great too, but can have some of the coldest temps in the state, even though in the southern part of the state. Steamboat seems more isolated. Cost of living "should" be cheaper in Gunnison; best way to check is look at housing costs on realtor.com or any of the rental sites.

Take either job; no matter which one you take, You're Gonna Love Colorado.

[jazzlover]

I know both well. I'd pick Gunnison in a heartbeat if you have a job offer there. Very hard to relocate there without a job in hand--decent jobs are very scarce. I disagree with Mike about climate. Yes, Gunnison gets brutally cold temperatures in the winter--when I lived there years ago, I saw -55° one January morning! So, yes, it's damned cold there in the winter. On the other hand, it's sunny even during those cold temperatures. Gunnison gets around 60" of snow in the winter--most of which will stay on the ground all winter. Steamboat gets much more snow--which also stays on the ground most all winter. Steamboat also gets cold in the winter--not as cold as Gunnison, but cold. The difference is that Steamboat has a lot more cloudy weather in winter than Gunnison in winter--which, to me, actually makes it feel colder than Gunnison. Summers in both are cool, pleasant, but short. Either place can having freezing nights any day of the summer on occasion.

Both towns used to be culturally similar--ranching communities in rural Colorado. Gunnison still has some of that feel. Steamboat has become a complete yuppified, condo and second-home-infested ski resort with all the bull**** that brings. Gunnison has some of that vibe with Crested Butte 28 miles up the road, but still is more of an authentic western Colorado town. Western State College in Gunnison does bring some culture to the community.

If you don't care about night life, etc., Gunnison is definitely preferable to Steamboat--much quieter. Affordable housing will be tough in either, but Gunnison is probably doable on $45K--in Steamboat, you'd probably be affording a 1BR condo, unless you're willing to live out of town 15-25 miles in Yampa or Hayden. I've lived in Gunnison, and I have friends who have lived or lived in either, and a couple of friends who have lived in both. No doubt which one I'd pick.

PS--Either one will be a complete climate shock to someone from Palm Springs. Both have a climate nearly polar opposite from there.

[sheila_917]

Thanks to both of you. I've lived in So California most of my life, never in snow or cold, want to live in the mountains so badly, am willing to prepare myself for snow/cold! Steamboat Springs sounds much like Palm Springs in the 2nd home, yuppie atmosphere.. sick,sick, sick of it... I call it the land of the plastic people. Sounds like Gunnison is just what I'm looking for. Glad to hear there's sun, that's a major plus! One more question if you don't mind. Being that I've only driven in snow once in my life, from your experiences, think I should stay close to town? Do you get "smart" quick about driving in it? And should I assume I'll need to get a 4X?
Thanks again!

[jazzlover]

Originally Posted by sheila_917

Thanks to both of you. I've lived in So California most of my life, never in snow or cold, want to live in the mountains so badly, am willing to prepare myself for snow/cold! Steamboat Springs sounds much like Palm Springs in the 2nd home, yuppie atmosphere.. sick,sick, sick of it... I call it the land of the plastic people. Sounds like Gunnison is just what I'm looking for. Glad to hear there's sun, that's a major plus! One more question if you don't mind. Being that I've only driven in snow once in my life, from your experiences, think I should stay close to town? Do you get "smart" quick about driving in it? And should I assume I'll need to get a 4X?
Thanks again!

Living right in town would be my recommendation--especially if you are renting where your car has to sit outside. In Gunnison, a vehicle parked outside will need a block heater. Even with that, it will take quite awhile to warm up to operating temperature when it's 20 or 30 below outside. Lots easier just to bundle up and walk if that's an option. There are really no "bad" neighborhoods in Gunnison, so in-town is nice. Will you get winter-driving smart "quick?" Well, either you learn to drive on ice and snow, or you will be going nowhere most of the winter. In Gunnison, most of the sidestreets will be ice and snow-covered a good chunk of the winter. Is an AWD or 4WD necessary? Probably not necessary, but nice to have. A lot of Subarus, Escapes, etc. up there for AWD's; if going into the backcountry for recreation is on your menu, then a full-fledged backroad-capable 4x4 is nice.

Again, just be prepared for the cold winter. I have good friends who have lived in Gunnison for over 30 years now. There are relocating to a warmer area of Colorado. They didn't mind HOW cold it got, but got tired of winter that basically goes from early November until late April. I didn't mind that when I lived up there--but that was when I was young. Now that I'm past that half-century mark, it's not nearly so inviting. Still love the country around Gunnison, though--I'll always have a warm spot in my heart for it.

If you don't like plastic people, Steamboat is not for you. There's plenty of those types up the road from Gunnison in Crested Butte, too--but Gunnison is not completly infested with them, at least not yet.

[wanneroo]

Haha! you picked two of the coldest places on the western slope to live.

Steamboat I think for what you are looking for isn't it. I lived there for a while and hated it compared to Eagle County or Summit county or even Aspen. The cost of living will be higher in Steamboat and unless you are really into skiing(like a couple times a week) I wouldn't bother. Probably on the money you are talking the rentals in your price range will be pretty crappy units or condos that have high turnover of ski bums. In order to get a decent place that doesn't look like a prostitutes flop house you'll have to spend at least $1500 a month on rent in steamboat.

Gunnison would probably be better for your tastes and Crested Butte is nearby. If you want something warmer you may want to look at Glenwood Springs, Grand Junction or maybe Montrose(haven't been in a while). I think Buena Vista is also an alternative to Gunnison.

In terms of jobs, getting a good job on the western slope takes a bit of effort because most of the locals have the good connections for those jobs. Unless you can support yourself for a while without a job, I would have a job offer first. Depending on where you live there are seasonal jobs available so there will probably be something to do in terms of work, but maybe not what you are looking for.

Driving in snow good snow tires is more important than 4 wheel drive. If you live in town as long as you have good snow tires getting around will probably not be a huge chore most days. Also if you need to know how to drive you can go the winter driving school in steamboat for a day.

[CosmicWizard]

sheila_917 wrote:

I've lived in So California most of my life, never in snow or cold, want to live in the mountains so badly, am willing to prepare myself for snow/cold!

There is no way ( that I know of ) to prepare for the cold after living in a warm climate most of your life. The contrast is almost unimaginable. It will be a shock. BUT, you have the capacity to adjust. Wether or not you make the adjustmnent depends on you. I lived in SoCal for just 4 years, then moved to Sedona, AZ. Even the relatively mild ( compared to Gunnison ) Sedona winter knocked me for a loop, even though I had previously spent winters in Alaska and British Columbia, Canada. Again, there is just no way to prepare for the below zero cold. It will definitely take some getting use to, and it will be shocking when you first encounter those cold temperatures.

I agree with jazzlover in regard to the issue of cloudy skies vs sunny skies. I'm the same way, a cold sunny day feels warmer to me than a cloudy day with a 20 higher temperature. Additionally, the wind makes an even bigger difference. A cold, still, day feels warmer to me than a windy day with temperatures 20 degrees higher. I know very little about Gunnison, so I'm unable to provide information regarding the wind. If that is a concern for you, and I think it should be, Jazzlover can give you the lowdown. Best wishes with your relocation.

[sheila_917]

Thanks to everyone for your input, it's appreciated. I have to sign a year's contract with my employer (US Gov't), my mother forgot to mention my blood is not necessarily English, Irish and Scotch, it Mainly Gypsy!! LOL I am so looking forward (and I've pretty much decided on Gunnison) to this "Adventure"... I just believe life should be an adventure and you have to take some chances to experience it all!! Just because I've never lived in the cold, doesn't mean I won't love it - at least be able to find the adventure of it!! Maybe naive of me, but I'm going to do it.
I do have one question and I can't seem to find the answer on the net, not for Gunnison anyway. What should I figure in my budget for utilities? I'll probably rent an apt but I'm hoping for a small, small house of some sort. That maybe wishful thinking, but it'll be whatever it is. Oh, and jazzlover, is there a wind issue in Gunnison?
Thanks again!

[vegaspilgrim]

Are those your only two "offers" or they just two of a long list of "offers" that you think you are interested in? I would not move to either one-- going from one extreme to the other is just plain not good. 120+ degree summers to 30 below winters. There are plenty of places in Colorado with a more mild 4 season climate that could get you out of the extreme heat of Palm Springs and still give you more than plenty of cold and snow that aren't as extremely cold as living in mountain valley towns. For example (not necessarily these cities, but places with similar climates), Denver, Colorado Springs, Pueblo, Fort Collins (or anywhere on the Front Range), Grand Junction. Or even Utah, the northern half of New Mexico or Northern Arizona. How do you know extreme cold is what you want when you've never even experienced mild cold before? I would go back to the drawing board if I were you.

[sheila_917]

My other offers were: Aspen and Vail in CO.. Alaska: Bethel, Nome and Kotzebue...I've seen photos of these place in AK and thanks, but no thanks. Aspen and Vail = too expensive for what the Gov't pays and tired of the tourist/yuppie community. Of couse, these a "hard to place" places thus, the offer. I could go back to the drawing board and see what else is out there. I was born in NM, lived in AZ and no thanks, for various reasons. My dream has always been to live in the mountains - perferably in a small town, realizing there's pluses and minuses. I appreciate your concern and thoughts and will do some more honest thinking on it, as well as go visit and talk to people before I sign anything. Thanks again!