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I like the Polk Audio 505 PSW for $180.00 delivered myself, so much so that I have one for upstairs and one for downstairs.
If you think a $180 subwoofer is good....wait till you get a taste of a $1,000+ subwoofer. I use to think, there is no way I'm going to pay a $1,000 for a subwoofer. I was sooooooooooo wrong.
I have two systems in my home that provide 5.1 audio for entertainment while watching the tv and two two channel systems in the basement just for rocking out.
Upstairs I have a Marantz nr1403 because it has 3d pass-through, which the wife wanted, and preamp outs for the towers. I use a pair of Kenwood L-07ms to power that, a Meadowlark center channel MTM speaker, a pair of Meadowlark MTMs in parallel with some Klipsch speakers for towers or fronts, some polk audios for rears (want to replace with meadowlarks soon), and the 505 su woofer. To me, this system rocks pretty much. I have to turn up to 50 to 70 for max output, that point where louder is unnecessary, or you'll damage speakers or eardrums.
In the basement, I have my two-way system and my 5.1 system sharing my pair of Keenwood L-09Ms via my Kenwood L-07 preamp.
Solid state Two-way system is a Marantz 2275 rcvr used as a processor and tuner, but I use the preamp outs to drive the 09s, which drive a pair of Marantz 7 Imperials in parallel with a pair of Wharfedale 160s. I can turn this system up to two (from 0 to 10 on the dial). This system needs no subwoofers. Its all there and is the best sound I've heard to date.
Then, my solid state 5.1 system there uses a Marantz 5501 with preamp going to the 09s, towers are a pair of 4-way Pioneer hpm-100s, a focal driven center channel, a pair of Infinity RF6Bs for rears, and the other Polk Audio 505 sub.
My two-way tube amp system is my latest addition. Pair of Dynaco Mark IIIs, 60 wpc, a PS Audio 6.1 preamp, a marantz tape deck, and two old Fisher three-ways in parallel are what I drive with those, and that system also needs no subwoofer.
you basically need about 2W for subs, and 3W for the mains/surrounds per cubic foot in your viewing room for home theater, assuming an average efficiency around 90-92. This will get you close to 125 dB (around where movie theaters play), regardless of manufacturer, rolloff, extension, etc.
you basically need about 2W for subs, and 3W for the mains/surrounds per cubic foot in your viewing room for home theater, assuming an average efficiency around 90-92. This will get you close to 125 dB (around where movie theaters play), regardless of manufacturer, rolloff, extension, etc.
2000 and 3000 watts?
I see some damaged speakers in your future..
Home theater "reference levels" require 105dB peaks from the main channels. Depending on the efficiency of the speaker in question that can take anywhere from say 50 watts to 250 watts. The room size also plays a role of course.
Home theater "reference levels" require 105dB peaks from the main channels. Depending on the efficiency of the speaker in question that can take anywhere from say 50 watts to 250 watts. The room size also plays a role of course.
Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
It would help if you reread my comment.
I said 2 and 3 W per cubic foot. Which would mean well more than 2000 and 3000 watts unless you are in a 12x10x8 room.
I also said nothing about "reference", I said to make it a similar experience to most movie theaters, where sound is typically played well above reference nowadays.
An atmos setup with 11.4 it is not going to "blow out" good speakers in the wattage range mentioned.
And as someone who (apparently) works for a speaker company that sells 1700W (and higher?) powered subs, you should realize that...?
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