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So far I have owned two ebikes. I've ridden motorcycles, mopeds and scooters. I was wondering why do cables freeze up or rust on bicycles but not mopeds? Can you recommend an ebike that I can commute 100 miles per week, but would be stored outside that would work for me. My ebikes are a 2017 Raleigh Retroglide IE and a Blix Aveny. The first bike had caliper brakes, the second one cable disk brakes. I know I can get hydralic disk brakes. I need my ebike to be durable/dependable in temps down to freezine. I live in a three story building so I don't want to be moving the bicycle up and down the stairs a few times a week.
For my commuter, I'm leaning towards a Juiced Scorpion. Not sure. I've also had chains that need to be replaced with less than 1000 miles is this common for a seven speed bike? Can you recommend a better Casette, derailer and chain set up. I have a twist shifter that I love. What are your thoughts? I live in Denver. and commute 4-5 times per week about 24-25 miles round trip a day. Thank You.
Grease the cables if you're going to be leaving the bike out in the elements.
You should be able to get much more than 1000 miles on a chain if you keep it oiled and out of the weather. If you leave it in the rain, you'll probably get much less than 1000. I guess you'll have to go with motorcycle chain lube (much much thicker than for bicycles).
As to quality of chains, derailleurs, and cassettes, I'd just go mid range Shimano for the last two and SRAM for the first one. If you leave it out in the rain and let it get all rusty, it won't matter if you drop $3000 on a Campagnolo gruppo or use the Huret parts off a 1975 Schwinn Varsity.
I wouldn't introduce the complexity of hydraulic brakes on a bicycle, I'd grease the cables.
Frankly I'd be a lot more concerned about batteries and electric motors left out in the rain.
Grease the cables if you're going to be leaving the bike out in the elements.
You should be able to get much more than 1000 miles on a chain if you keep it oiled and out of the weather. If you leave it in the rain, you'll probably get much less than 1000. I guess you'll have to go with motorcycle chain lube (much much thicker than for bicycles).
As to quality of chains, derailleurs, and cassettes, I'd just go mid range Shimano for the last two and SRAM for the first one. If you leave it out in the rain and let it get all rusty, it won't matter if you drop $3000 on a Campagnolo gruppo or use the Huret parts off a 1975 Schwinn Varsity.
I wouldn't introduce the complexity of hydraulic brakes on a bicycle, I'd grease the cables.
Frankly I'd be a lot more concerned about batteries and electric motors left out in the rain.
I was told 1000 miles is par for the course. Not sure why better chains and casettes aren't available. I was thinking Hydralic brakes and wonder why they don't just use brake fluid instead of some oil. How is the effectiveness changed at or below freezing. Thank You for your input.
Hydraulic bike brakes are now the new norm, even on many of the lower cost models. The effectiveness and durability is much better better than mechanical discs sine the friction and elements ultimately cause issues with the cables.
Hydraulics use different types of oils, depending on the manufacturer and they are fine in cold weather, it’s a sealed system. If you have specific concerns regarding bike storage, Trek has many models where the battery is readily removable, tool free, so you can remove it and bring it indoors at night or any other time if that’s your choice.
I was told 1000 miles is par for the course. Not sure why better chains and casettes aren't available. I was thinking Hydralic brakes and wonder why they don't just use brake fluid instead of some oil. How is the effectiveness changed at or below freezing. Thank You for your input.
Well, "better chains" for what?
Modern bicycle chains for derailleur use are narrow and flexible so they'll shift easily and so they can fit more rear cogs in a given width.
If you want greater chain durability go to an internally-geared hub and a single speed chain which is wider and won't flex, so it's got more internal bearing area. You still have to keep it oiled (or use motorcycle chain lube which is more like a thin grease). Such a chain is neither "better" nor "worse" - it's better for long term exposed use, but much much worse for derailleur shifting.
Of course, with the modern master links on a narrow chain, it takes about 2 minutes to take off the old chain, 5 minutes to shorten a chain to the correct length (with your chain tool), and another 2 to put the new one on.
For maximum protection from the elements get a bike with a fully enclosed chain case like a Raleigh DL-1 (knockoffs of this bike are still made by the hundreds of thousands in India). If you get one with the rod brakes you won't even HAVE cables!
Again, if you don't want to maintain your ride for severe exposure by doing things like greasing brake cables and pivots, then hydraulic brakes would probably give better service for a little while - but they require service too and when they fail they're going to fail expensively unlike cable operated rim brakes where there's pretty much nothing can go wrong that can't be fixed with $30 worth of new cables, some steel wool to remove rust, and appropriate use of grease. Lots of mountain bikes have little rubber boots to cover where the cables exit the housings. I'd buy and install those if you don't have them, then pull those back and fill them up with grease periodically. Water's not going to get into the housing except at the ends.
Hydraulic bike brakes are now the new norm, even on many of the lower cost models. The effectiveness and durability is much better better than mechanical discs sine the friction and elements ultimately cause issues with the cables.
Hydraulics use different types of oils, depending on the manufacturer and they are fine in cold weather, it’s a sealed system. If you have specific concerns regarding bike storage, Trek has many models where the battery is readily removable, tool free, so you can remove it and bring it indoors at night or any other time if that’s your choice.
I really wish I had added hydraulic brakes when i ordered my bike. I am constantly having to adjust my brakes, I'm getting them switched this winter.
E-bikes cant be left out in the cold and damp. Why dont you consider some thing small and portable that you can take inside like a Swagtron EB-5 or EB-7?
I really wish I had added hydraulic brakes when i ordered my bike. I am constantly having to adjust my brakes, I'm getting them switched this winter.
I surprised? I have cable Tektro brakes on my CX bike and haven’t needed to touch them at all and the bike is 5 years old. Perhaps because I’m usually never riding areas with steep hills.
Most riders love hydraulic brakes for their stopping power but I find the mechanicals work just fine for my riding.
Sounds like the OP wants a bike that he/she can ride 125 miles per week, in snow/slush, that lasts forever, all while neglecting simple maintenance.
I thought only unicorns were in Boulder...
I do simple maintenance. Grease, lube, brake adjustments. I bring my battery inside if its below 50 F, bike stays outside because I don't want to lug it up three flights of stairs. This is my commute vehicle, if it snows, I bring the bike inside. If it rains, the bike stays outside. This is my second ebike and it's working great. The first one had caliper brakes, mid drive. We will see. I'm also exploring different routes that has higher snow melt rates.
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