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Reading the city-data forums over the last year has been eye opening, a lot of helpful people all around to help my wife and I decide on where we would move to when we decided to bail out of Northern Illinois (Hated most things about the state). In making the choices on where to live we read these forums night and day, traveled to various locations and eventually came down to 4 major cities to choose to live (Tampa Bay, Atlanta, San Diego, Dallas). Thats right, we did not let jobs dictate where to move, instead we choose where we wanted to be and then found jobs to replace our Illinois jobs. We figured we were young enough that if we made a mistake we could still recover from it without ruining our lives.
I won't lie, San Diego was our first choice and love, but we could never justify the QoL cost their, at least not at our age and income levels (we are both 29).
Dallas was the one that surprised us when visiting. Instead of the semi-desert concrete sprawling desert that is portrayed by most people who have never been here, we were delighted to find an easy to drive, lots to do, affordable, great economic zone of activity.
So for anyone considering the move to Dallas I figured I'd write up our findings over the last year. What we've loved, what we've disliked, and our overall feeling on the area:
The Things We LOVE:
All the nice suburbs like Frisco - We love it, its beautiful. From the amazing mall, to the fun Ikea to shop in, to the Trails where we bought our home near, to all the new things being built out. Its a very beautiful area that I see a lot of people already taking for granted. I don't think locals realize just how much nicer places like Frisco, Plano, Flower Mound, Coppell and even the up and coming Little Elm are compared to suburbs and smaller communities elsewhere in the US. I'm not saying they are the nicest places on earth (they aren't) but in terms of overall planning, style, things to do, and the clean-ness of things, these places are high on the scale of quality.
Taxes/Economy - Coming from a 5% income tax to none is wonderful. Property taxes are the same as where I came from so no loss there. the only thing so far that isn't cheaper here compared to up north is Electricity, water and Tolls. All of which are still cheaper than losing 5% of our income to a state income tax. The economy is so good here both my wife and I basically doubled our previous salaries. Not only that we actually didn't like our first jobs we got when we moved here, so just decided to put out our resumes and try again. Within weeks we both had new jobs (I didn't even have to look, a head hunter grabbed me when I put up my website, moved me into a new job and got another salary boost). Sense then we've both been contacted by numerous other companies asking us to apply. I'm not sure if that's unique to us or not, but the job market here really seems incredible to us.
The sprawl - Some people hate it, we love it. Dallas is the least city like city we've ever been too, and we love it for that. We are not concrete jungle fans, we do not like dense cities with people living ontop of each other. Dallas is amazing in that we can choose to live a urban style in downtown/north Dallas, a suburb life in the closer suburbs, or a rural life out just a bit further. And you still get all the benefits of a city so long as you have a car (and a toll tag). We love driving, and we love the Dallas roads so far (hell of a lot better than Chicago's roads). This isn't for everyone, as some people will be annoyed having to get in their car and drive 15 minutes to go to the nicer theater, or the best mall, or a few minutes to a grocery store. But we like that, we like driving, we are patient people, and we like the fact we have a yard and a nice house at a decent value. When we came here we wanted a large house, with a nice yard, at a good price with all the benefits of a major metro area (major concerts, events, new technologies, ect). We feel we absolutely got that without having to give up too much (the work commute is about it, which I'll get to in the negatives).
The People - People really are friendlier on average here compared to the northern mid-west and especially the north-east. Its nice just saying good morning to people and people replying nicely, often times stopping to have a small friendly conversation. My wife and I have walked around the mall so many times and just talked to random people. It feels much more welcoming here than a place like Chicago, where we always got the impression "you mind your own business and don't talk to strangers"
Southlake - We absolutely love just walking around the town square in Southlake. We've had so many nice nights just sitting in the little court yard area listing to people play violins or other instruments and relax. If you haven't been over their at night, do it some time. Its an awesome atmosphere and lots of good places to eat, catch a movie, shop and just relax.
The Housing Market - There is a lot of talk about how Dallas's housing market is super hot and expensive right now, but honestly compared to what we've seen in other communities, it feels more like Dallas is just moving more towards the average price of living in a city, and even now prices are still more reasonable then we were expecting. 300k will get you a decent home in a decent area, its the budget we went in with and found a house we absolutely love in a location we absolutely love. That same money else where would have got us far less. With all the new construction going on you have tons of choices, if you want to keep a lower budget like we did, you move further out to the newer areas, and sacrifice your commute some. If you want older homes, you'll find some great properties in Plano. If you want a great location that's 20 minutes to anyplace, we saw great homes in Coppell, Castle Hills, Flower Mound, and Grapevine. There are so many options and we love it (just make sure you know what you want and jump on the right house fast!)
The overall feel - We didn't think it would happen, but we are loving Texas. There's a certain cultural feel around here that we are slowly taking on. Some people dont have it/dont care for it, but a lot of people, especially natives, have this culture or "largeness" to them that just comes off as a good meaning, gentle confidence. We love it, and find it to be something unique to the area. The feeling we got in Illinois was always "stuffy, arrogant and panicked"
The Weather - We came from winters lasting 5 months to a place where it feels like winter doesn't even start until January. We love that. We like heat, and so far we have yet to mind a single hot day in Dallas. 100+ days still feel better than 87+ days in Illinois. The humidity here is much better (though I still see people complaining about it, no clue why). When it's 105 degrees out you can still head over to a water park, mall, or any other of the 1000+ things to do in Dallas. When there is 3 feet of snow on the ground and its -15 out, you aren't doing that stuff. We were happy to trade those days for the occasional "everything shuts down for a few inches of snow for 2 days" in Dallas.
DFW Airport - We love having a major international airport here, and love even more how easy it is to get in and out of. We've had no problems getting in and out of the terminals quickly. Prices are insanely good compared to St. Louis/Chicago and all the smaller regional airports we've had to use in the past.
The Things We Dislike:
Downtown Dallas (around the aquarium/historic area) - Very dirty and honestly has an old school unsafe feeling to it. Its not a pretty area, nor does it seem like anyone would ever live there.
35 & 75 - I'm not sure I've ever seen these roads not jam packed and running at 5mph. Its crazy how bad 35 is around Carrollton. I try to avoid it at all cost.
Construction - This is a necessary evil for a booming economy and a sprawling city, but it is annoying. 635 is annoying to drive on. 35 Is hell (see above). 435 is going to be a mess for a few years (making my commute a bit tougher) and there is no end in sight for the construction, once those are done we all know other roads need either expanding, attention or whole new, currently non-existent roads will be going in. I can only imagine what Dallas will be like in 10 years.
Micro-pocketed Economic Communities - As much as we love the fact Dallas is very diverse and accepting, we also are finding the opposite when it comes to economics. While racial and cultural issues will always be a work in progress, the economic pockets are far more in your face in Dallas than any other place I've ever been. The difference between the have and have nots is huge. You almost always know if you are in a "rich/high middle class" area or a lower middle class/poor area. Its such a dramatic change and it happens in pockets that can be as small as a block or as large as whole city (like driving from Irving to Coppel, or South Carrollton to North Carrollton). I've noticed there is a lot of "classism" instead of racism when attending community events or just being on video shoots. Its not subtle. This in no way is all encompassing of everyone, its just a lot more prevalent than I've ever been use too. It could just be my wife and I are moving up into new economic groups as our incomes have increased extremely quickly and only now are we actually noticing it, but we don't like it and feel uncomfortable anytime someone without money is referred to derogatory or even subtly suggested they aren't as important as someone with money.
My Commute - So I mentioned we are patient, and like driving, well that does have a limit. My wife and I work in different areas, her in Plano, me in Las Colinas. Where we bought our house puts her about 15 minutes to work, but I can hit up to 1 hour commutes when traffic is bad (and about 30 minutes when its good). Its annoying, the longest commute I've ever had, but its part of being in a sprawling city. I'm fine with it because my wife is closer to her work and I can listen to an audio book. But it is something I imagine alot of people moving here will have to deal with. If you want a house close to your work, you'll be paying extra for it. If you want a bigger home at a good price, you'll be a bit further out, and your commute will suffer. Its a trade off, one we were okay making. I have the benefit I can work from home often if need be (and I will be, hopefully 2x a week). But I could see it being annoying for anyone who doesn't like driving.
The Weather - Yep its a negative too, not because of the heat (haven't minded it) but because of how unpredictable it is. One day its 75, next day its 30, next day its 65, next day its snowing 6", next day its 55. So very confusing. Its still better than the Northern Mid-west, but its no Key West, thats for sure.
Places we've loved so far:
Southlake Town Square
Any place off of Legacy
Raisin Cane's *YUM!*
The Dallas Aquarium *SO COOL!*
AT&T Stadium *As a Packer fan, I love that our team won our last super bowl here , and beat the Cowboys in the playoffs this years, so fitting *
The Trails in Frisco
All the awesome golf courses
Basically anything North of 635 is pretty cool (Minus The Colony, the area seriously needs some rehab)
Grapevine and all the cool festivals
The Gaylord, wow its huge and impressive.
All the Malls, we haven't been to a bad one yet. Stonebriar is our favorite
560 at Reunion Tower. Best food I've ever had in my life.
Medieval Times, Very fun, though the one in Dallas is a lot smaller than the one in Chicago
The park above the interstate in downtown Dallas, its really cool and a great atmosphere.
Nebraska Furniture Mart - Its ridiculously huge and awesome. *yes my wife and I love shopping*
DFW Airport - We love the prices and ease of getting in and out of it. The fact we can fly to Hawaii for only 30k AA points is awesome.
Suggestions for anyone moving here:
1. Get a Toll Tag. You'll need it around here. Even if you think you will be using as few tolls roads as possible, just get it, it'll save you money in the long run.
2. Get good auto insurance. I've seen more accidents here than any other place (part of being in a sprawling city). Be safe, not sorry.
3. Don't move here and jump into a house. Rent first and explore the area. There are so many unique places that will fit everyone differently. Come here, rent for 6 months and spend that time exploring and seeing what community feels like home to you.
4. Go to the DMV early, I was in and out in 15 minutes by going in early. My coworkers have been stuck there for 1/2 a day (and sometimes more) because they went at 10am.
***Correction to this: The "DMV" as us northerns know it doesn't work the same way in Dallas. We had to first get our car inspected at a shop, to get a peice of paper telling the state that it was in good shape, than take that paper to County Tax Office (In Carrollton) to get a vehicle registration sticker and plates, than go to the Department of Public Safety (i think this was in North Carrollton or Lewisville) to get the drivers license. Crazy how its not all done at one "DMV".
5. Don't move here if you cant handle heat or traffic.
6. I wouldn't recommend Dallas unless you have a good fiscal footing (or are moving for a job that will give you a good footing).
7. Choosing a power company is confusing. Even with the powertochoose website I'm still not sure if we are getting good or bad deals.
8. I think there is a "Dallas 15", gaining 15lbs the first year you move here. So many good places to eat... can't stop...
So there, some of our findings from living here for 11 months. We are still Dallas noobs, but I figured some people would be interested in hearing from a recent transplant couple what their Dallas experience has been like. Feel free to ask me anything and I'll tell you what we've discovered so far. It might seem like I listed a lot of negatives but its just honest feedback so far. We love this place enough to buy a home, so that should say something.
By "DMV" you probably mean "County Tax Office" to get your car registration or "Department of Public Safety" to get a driver's licencse. While Texas does technically have a DMV, there are not local DMV offices.
By "DMV" you probably mean "County Tax Office" to get your car registration or "Department of Public Safety" to get a driver's licencse. While Texas does technically have a DMV, there are not local DMV offices.
Yes this thank you. I had forgotten we had to go to 2 different places to get Plates and Drivers Licences. I'll amend that. Its a good thing to know for new people here and it confused me like crazy at first.
Downtown Dallas (around the aquarium/historic area) - Very dirty and honestly has an old school unsafe feeling to it. Its not a pretty area, nor does it seem like anyone would ever live there.
Huh?!?!?!?!?!
Quote:
35 & 75 - I'm not sure I've ever seen these roads not jam packed and running at 5mph. Its crazy how bad 35 is around Carrollton. I try to avoid it at all cost.
Construction - This is a necessary evil for a booming economy and a sprawling city, but it is annoying. 635 is annoying to drive on. 35 Is hell (see above). 435 is going to be a mess for a few years (making my commute a bit tougher) and there is no end in sight for the construction, once those are done we all know other roads need either expanding, attention or whole new, currently non-existent roads will be going in. I can only imagine what Dallas will be like in 10 years.
I'm going to go ahead and point out the obvious here...these traffic jams and highway construction projects are due to people streaming into north Texas and filling up our roads. People like...you!
Quote:
Micro-pocketed Economic Communities - As much as we love the fact Dallas is very diverse and accepting, we also are finding the opposite when it comes to economics. While racial and cultural issues will always be a work in progress, the economic pockets are far more in your face in Dallas than any other place I've ever been. The difference between the have and have nots is huge. You almost always know if you are in a "rich/high middle class" area or a lower middle class/poor area. Its such a dramatic change and it happens in pockets that can be as small as a block or as large as whole city (like driving from Irving to Coppel, or South Carrollton to North Carrollton). I've noticed there is a lot of "classism" instead of racism when attending community events or just being on video shoots. Its not subtle. This in no way is all encompassing of everyone, its just a lot more prevalent than I've ever been use too. It could just be my wife and I are moving up into new economic groups as our incomes have increased extremely quickly and only now are we actually noticing it, but we don't like it and feel uncomfortable anytime someone without money is referred to derogatory or even subtly suggested they aren't as important as someone with money.
See the thread about people in Frisco freaking out about fewer than 100 affordable housing units proposed for their area.
Quote:
My Commute - So I mentioned we are patient, and like driving, well that does have a limit. My wife and I work in different areas, her in Plano, me in Las Colinas. Where we bought our house puts her about 15 minutes to work, but I can hit up to 1 hour commutes when traffic is bad (and about 30 minutes when its good). Its annoying, the longest commute I've ever had, but its part of being in a sprawling city. I'm fine with it because my wife is closer to her work and I can listen to an audio book. But it is something I imagine alot of people moving here will have to deal with. If you want a house close to your work, you'll be paying extra for it. If you want a bigger home at a good price, you'll be a bit further out, and your commute will suffer. Its a trade off, one we were okay making. I have the benefit I can work from home often if need be (and I will be, hopefully 2x a week). But I could see it being annoying for anyone who doesn't like driving.
See the above comment regarding people moving here.
Quote:
The Weather - Yep its a negative too, not because of the heat (haven't minded it) but because of how unpredictable it is. One day its 75, next day its 30, next day its 65, next day its snowing 6", next day its 55. So very confusing. Its still better than the Northern Mid-west, but its no Key West, thats for sure.
Can't help you there.
Quote:
Suggestions for anyone moving here:
1. Get a Toll Tag. You'll need it around here. Even if you think you will be using as few tolls roads as possible, just get it, it'll save you money in the long run.
2. Get good auto insurance. I've seen more accidents here than any other place (part of being in a sprawling city). Be safe, not sorry.
3. Don't move here and jump into a house. Rent first and explore the area. There are so many unique places that will fit everyone differently. Come here, rent for 6 months and spend that time exploring and seeing what community feels like home to you.
4. Go to the DMV early, I was in and out in 15 minutes by going in early. My coworkers have been stuck there for 1/2 a day (and sometimes more) because they went at 10am.
***Correction to this: The "DMV" as us northerns know it doesn't work the same way in Dallas. We had to first get our car inspected at a shop, to get a peice of paper telling the state that it was in good shape, than take that paper to County Tax Office (In Carrollton) to get a vehicle registration sticker and plates, than go to the Department of Public Safety (i think this was in North Carrollton or Lewisville) to get the drivers license. Crazy how its not all done at one "DMV".
5. Don't move here if you cant handle heat or traffic.
6. I wouldn't recommend Dallas unless you have a good fiscal footing (or are moving for a job that will give you a good footing).
7. Choosing a power company is confusing. Even with the powertochoose website I'm still not sure if we are getting good or bad deals.
Nothing that hasn't been said here a thousand times.
Not sure whats strange about the statement. Its just ugly, we walked from Reunion Tower, to the Aquarium and around the area, and it was dirty (Litter everywhere) and felt extremely empty for a city area. Its no where near as bad as Downtown Philly, but still we were surprised. Of all the areas we've been so far I'd say that area of Dallas is our least favorite.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDGeek
See the thread about people in Frisco freaking out about fewer than 100 affordable housing units proposed for their area.
Glad you're happy.
Saw that thread and stayed clear of it. Its basically what I'm talking about in a nutshell. It isn't just an economic divide (its a grand canyon) Its the fact that the better off seem to have completely turned those less fortunate into evil lazy monsters who will destroy communities (but more importantly their home values). I get it, no one wants to see their home turned into a "ghetto" but people seem to lose touch with the fact their are still human beings out there, and not all of them are in bad fiscal situations because they are lazy, ex-cons or fathering 40 children. The ability of money to make people blind to the suffering of others makes me very sad.
This reads for me like all the reasons I wouldn't want to live in Dallas and luckily has only two real mentions of Dallas, one negative and one positive. OP might want to re-title his review to say Suburbs or DFW instead of Dallas.
This reads for me like all the reasons I wouldn't want to live in Dallas and luckily has only two real mentions of Dallas, one negative and one positive. OP might want to re-title his review to say Suburbs or DFW instead of Dallas.
Fair enough, I added that to the title, though this forum is labeled Dallas and comprises the whole metro area, I figured most will consider "Dallas" to be the whole metro area.. As for reasons why you wouldn't want to live here, thats great! Its exactly why I wrote this. Some people will read it and instantly be like "oh no, I really dont want to live there if thats what he considers good" and thats a perfectly good reaction and one hopefully someone will use to make the best choice if they were considering coming here. Others may read it and think it's exactly what they are looking for.
Thanks for taking the time to reflect on, and share, your assessments of the burbs. Maybe Castle Hills would have been a better pick for your house as far as commute and the things you like.
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, and beat the Cowboys in the playoffs this years, so fitting 
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