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Reading the city-data forums over the last year has been eye opening, a lot of helpful people all around to help my wife and I decide on where we would move to when we decided to bail out of Northern Illinois (Hated most things about the state). In making the choices on where to live we read these forums night and day, traveled to various locations and eventually came down to 4 major cities to choose to live (Tampa Bay, Atlanta, San Diego, Dallas). Thats right, we did not let jobs dictate where to move, instead we choose where we wanted to be and then found jobs to replace our Illinois jobs. We figured we were young enough that if we made a mistake we could still recover from it without ruining our lives.
I won't lie, San Diego was our first choice and love, but we could never justify the QoL cost their, at least not at our age and income levels (we are both 29).
Dallas was the one that surprised us when visiting. Instead of the semi-desert concrete sprawling desert that is portrayed by most people who have never been here, we were delighted to find an easy to drive, lots to do, affordable, great economic zone of activity.
So for anyone considering the move to Dallas I figured I'd write up our findings over the last year. What we've loved, what we've disliked, and our overall feeling on the area:
The Things We LOVE:
All the nice suburbs like Frisco - We love it, its beautiful. From the amazing mall, to the fun Ikea to shop in, to the Trails where we bought our home near, to all the new things being built out. Its a very beautiful area that I see a lot of people already taking for granted. I don't think locals realize just how much nicer places like Frisco, Plano, Flower Mound, Coppell and even the up and coming Little Elm are compared to suburbs and smaller communities elsewhere in the US. I'm not saying they are the nicest places on earth (they aren't) but in terms of overall planning, style, things to do, and the clean-ness of things, these places are high on the scale of quality.
Taxes/Economy - Coming from a 5% income tax to none is wonderful. Property taxes are the same as where I came from so no loss there. the only thing so far that isn't cheaper here compared to up north is Electricity, water and Tolls. All of which are still cheaper than losing 5% of our income to a state income tax. The economy is so good here both my wife and I basically doubled our previous salaries. Not only that we actually didn't like our first jobs we got when we moved here, so just decided to put out our resumes and try again. Within weeks we both had new jobs (I didn't even have to look, a head hunter grabbed me when I put up my website, moved me into a new job and got another salary boost). Sense then we've both been contacted by numerous other companies asking us to apply. I'm not sure if that's unique to us or not, but the job market here really seems incredible to us.
The sprawl - Some people hate it, we love it. Dallas is the least city like city we've ever been too, and we love it for that. We are not concrete jungle fans, we do not like dense cities with people living ontop of each other. Dallas is amazing in that we can choose to live a urban style in downtown/north Dallas, a suburb life in the closer suburbs, or a rural life out just a bit further. And you still get all the benefits of a city so long as you have a car (and a toll tag). We love driving, and we love the Dallas roads so far (hell of a lot better than Chicago's roads). This isn't for everyone, as some people will be annoyed having to get in their car and drive 15 minutes to go to the nicer theater, or the best mall, or a few minutes to a grocery store. But we like that, we like driving, we are patient people, and we like the fact we have a yard and a nice house at a decent value. When we came here we wanted a large house, with a nice yard, at a good price with all the benefits of a major metro area (major concerts, events, new technologies, ect). We feel we absolutely got that without having to give up too much (the work commute is about it, which I'll get to in the negatives).
The People - People really are friendlier on average here compared to the northern mid-west and especially the north-east. Its nice just saying good morning to people and people replying nicely, often times stopping to have a small friendly conversation. My wife and I have walked around the mall so many times and just talked to random people. It feels much more welcoming here than a place like Chicago, where we always got the impression "you mind your own business and don't talk to strangers"
Southlake - We absolutely love just walking around the town square in Southlake. We've had so many nice nights just sitting in the little court yard area listing to people play violins or other instruments and relax. If you haven't been over their at night, do it some time. Its an awesome atmosphere and lots of good places to eat, catch a movie, shop and just relax.
The Housing Market - There is a lot of talk about how Dallas's housing market is super hot and expensive right now, but honestly compared to what we've seen in other communities, it feels more like Dallas is just moving more towards the average price of living in a city, and even now prices are still more reasonable then we were expecting. 300k will get you a decent home in a decent area, its the budget we went in with and found a house we absolutely love in a location we absolutely love. That same money else where would have got us far less. With all the new construction going on you have tons of choices, if you want to keep a lower budget like we did, you move further out to the newer areas, and sacrifice your commute some. If you want older homes, you'll find some great properties in Plano. If you want a great location that's 20 minutes to anyplace, we saw great homes in Coppell, Castle Hills, Flower Mound, and Grapevine. There are so many options and we love it (just make sure you know what you want and jump on the right house fast!)
The overall feel - We didn't think it would happen, but we are loving Texas. There's a certain cultural feel around here that we are slowly taking on. Some people dont have it/dont care for it, but a lot of people, especially natives, have this culture or "largeness" to them that just comes off as a good meaning, gentle confidence. We love it, and find it to be something unique to the area. The feeling we got in Illinois was always "stuffy, arrogant and panicked"
The Weather - We came from winters lasting 5 months to a place where it feels like winter doesn't even start until January. We love that. We like heat, and so far we have yet to mind a single hot day in Dallas. 100+ days still feel better than 87+ days in Illinois. The humidity here is much better (though I still see people complaining about it, no clue why). When it's 105 degrees out you can still head over to a water park, mall, or any other of the 1000+ things to do in Dallas. When there is 3 feet of snow on the ground and its -15 out, you aren't doing that stuff. We were happy to trade those days for the occasional "everything shuts down for a few inches of snow for 2 days" in Dallas.
DFW Airport - We love having a major international airport here, and love even more how easy it is to get in and out of. We've had no problems getting in and out of the terminals quickly. Prices are insanely good compared to St. Louis/Chicago and all the smaller regional airports we've had to use in the past.
The Things We Dislike:
Downtown Dallas (around the aquarium/historic area) - Very dirty and honestly has an old school unsafe feeling to it. Its not a pretty area, nor does it seem like anyone would ever live there.
35 & 75 - I'm not sure I've ever seen these roads not jam packed and running at 5mph. Its crazy how bad 35 is around Carrollton. I try to avoid it at all cost.
Construction - This is a necessary evil for a booming economy and a sprawling city, but it is annoying. 635 is annoying to drive on. 35 Is hell (see above). 435 is going to be a mess for a few years (making my commute a bit tougher) and there is no end in sight for the construction, once those are done we all know other roads need either expanding, attention or whole new, currently non-existent roads will be going in. I can only imagine what Dallas will be like in 10 years.
Micro-pocketed Economic Communities - As much as we love the fact Dallas is very diverse and accepting, we also are finding the opposite when it comes to economics. While racial and cultural issues will always be a work in progress, the economic pockets are far more in your face in Dallas than any other place I've ever been. The difference between the have and have nots is huge. You almost always know if you are in a "rich/high middle class" area or a lower middle class/poor area. Its such a dramatic change and it happens in pockets that can be as small as a block or as large as whole city (like driving from Irving to Coppel, or South Carrollton to North Carrollton). I've noticed there is a lot of "classism" instead of racism when attending community events or just being on video shoots. Its not subtle. This in no way is all encompassing of everyone, its just a lot more prevalent than I've ever been use too. It could just be my wife and I are moving up into new economic groups as our incomes have increased extremely quickly and only now are we actually noticing it, but we don't like it and feel uncomfortable anytime someone without money is referred to derogatory or even subtly suggested they aren't as important as someone with money.
My Commute - So I mentioned we are patient, and like driving, well that does have a limit. My wife and I work in different areas, her in Plano, me in Las Colinas. Where we bought our house puts her about 15 minutes to work, but I can hit up to 1 hour commutes when traffic is bad (and about 30 minutes when its good). Its annoying, the longest commute I've ever had, but its part of being in a sprawling city. I'm fine with it because my wife is closer to her work and I can listen to an audio book. But it is something I imagine alot of people moving here will have to deal with. If you want a house close to your work, you'll be paying extra for it. If you want a bigger home at a good price, you'll be a bit further out, and your commute will suffer. Its a trade off, one we were okay making. I have the benefit I can work from home often if need be (and I will be, hopefully 2x a week). But I could see it being annoying for anyone who doesn't like driving.
The Weather - Yep its a negative too, not because of the heat (haven't minded it) but because of how unpredictable it is. One day its 75, next day its 30, next day its 65, next day its snowing 6", next day its 55. So very confusing. Its still better than the Northern Mid-west, but its no Key West, thats for sure.
Places we've loved so far:
Southlake Town Square
Any place off of Legacy
Raisin Cane's *YUM!*
The Dallas Aquarium *SO COOL!*
AT&T Stadium *As a Packer fan, I love that our team won our last super bowl here , and beat the Cowboys in the playoffs this years, so fitting *
The Trails in Frisco
All the awesome golf courses
Basically anything North of 635 is pretty cool (Minus The Colony, the area seriously needs some rehab)
Grapevine and all the cool festivals
The Gaylord, wow its huge and impressive.
All the Malls, we haven't been to a bad one yet. Stonebriar is our favorite
560 at Reunion Tower. Best food I've ever had in my life.
Medieval Times, Very fun, though the one in Dallas is a lot smaller than the one in Chicago
The park above the interstate in downtown Dallas, its really cool and a great atmosphere.
Nebraska Furniture Mart - Its ridiculously huge and awesome. *yes my wife and I love shopping*
DFW Airport - We love the prices and ease of getting in and out of it. The fact we can fly to Hawaii for only 30k AA points is awesome.
Suggestions for anyone moving here:
1. Get a Toll Tag. You'll need it around here. Even if you think you will be using as few tolls roads as possible, just get it, it'll save you money in the long run.
2. Get good auto insurance. I've seen more accidents here than any other place (part of being in a sprawling city). Be safe, not sorry.
3. Don't move here and jump into a house. Rent first and explore the area. There are so many unique places that will fit everyone differently. Come here, rent for 6 months and spend that time exploring and seeing what community feels like home to you.
4. Go to the DMV early, I was in and out in 15 minutes by going in early. My coworkers have been stuck there for 1/2 a day (and sometimes more) because they went at 10am.
***Correction to this: The "DMV" as us northerns know it doesn't work the same way in Dallas. We had to first get our car inspected at a shop, to get a peice of paper telling the state that it was in good shape, than take that paper to County Tax Office (In Carrollton) to get a vehicle registration sticker and plates, than go to the Department of Public Safety (i think this was in North Carrollton or Lewisville) to get the drivers license. Crazy how its not all done at one "DMV".
5. Don't move here if you cant handle heat or traffic.
6. I wouldn't recommend Dallas unless you have a good fiscal footing (or are moving for a job that will give you a good footing).
7. Choosing a power company is confusing. Even with the powertochoose website I'm still not sure if we are getting good or bad deals.
8. I think there is a "Dallas 15", gaining 15lbs the first year you move here. So many good places to eat... can't stop...
So there, some of our findings from living here for 11 months. We are still Dallas noobs, but I figured some people would be interested in hearing from a recent transplant couple what their Dallas experience has been like. Feel free to ask me anything and I'll tell you what we've discovered so far. It might seem like I listed a lot of negatives but its just honest feedback so far. We love this place enough to buy a home, so that should say something.
I enjoyed reading this how is allergy season I'm thinking of relocating from Sacramento California it's known name is city of trees everyone from texas says it's the worst out they're but since ur not from there maybe u have a different opinion my son suffers from allergies really bad face swells up and he's only 7
I enjoyed reading this how is allergy season I'm thinking of relocating from Sacramento California it's known name is city of trees everyone from texas says it's the worst out they're but since ur not from there maybe u have a different opinion my son suffers from allergies really bad face swells up and he's only 7
Ashe Juniper, ragweed and mold spores seem to be our big problems now. But live, red and white oaks, pecans, red and mountain cedars, bermuda grass, giant and regular ragweed, johnson grass and pigweed are all to be worried about by people with allergies. Right now Dallas/DFW is probably the worst big city in the country for allergies.
You might have to bring your son here for a few days as a test. In a little bit I'll send you the name/number of a world class allergy doc's. office in Plano Texas the office can almost certainly direct you to good information. The last thing you want to do is move here and have to hospitalize your kiddo.
Ashe Juniper, ragweed and mold spores seem to be our big problems now. But live, red and white oaks, pecans, red and mountain cedars, bermuda grass, giant and regular ragweed, johnson grass and pigweed are all to be worried about by people with allergies. Right now Dallas/DFW is probably the worst big city in the country for allergies.
You might have to bring your son here for a few days as a test. In a little bit I'll send you the name/number of a world class allergy doc's. office in Plano Texas the office can almost certainly direct you to good information. The last thing you want to do is move here and have to hospitalize your kiddo.
That would be great thank you so much yes I need for information
I have bad spring allergies in northern Va and I have heard DFW is equally bad or worse than nova. Anyone from here who relocated to DFW would like to comment?
Here in Northern Virginia, maple, cedar/juniper, birch, alder and ash trees are in bloom and contributing most of the pollen flying around, according to Pollen.com.
My son also has bad allergies. Thanks to my genes.
I have bad spring allergies in northern Va and I have heard DFW is equally bad or worse than nova. Anyone from here who relocated to DFW would like to comment?
Here in Northern Virginia, maple, cedar/juniper, birch, alder and ash trees are in bloom and contributing most of the pollen flying around, according to Pollen.com.
My son also has bad allergies. Thanks to my genes.
I am not from DFW originally, and I had even lived in other parts of Texas before moving to DFW. My first winter in DFW was a shock -- I had to call in "sick" to work multiple times because my "Mountain Cedar," which is really Juniper, allergy was so bad. My eyes were very red, I sneezed constantly, and my face was puffy. Luckily, I learned how to manage it, and it isn't so bad anymore. You simply need to visit your allergist every year during November and get your prescriptions for your preferred medicine. For me, Nasonex works pretty well. If you still get hit, you can go back to the allergist for a steroid shot. The important thing is hitting it early.
Until I came to DFW, I had no idea that I had a Mountain Cedar allergy. I also had no idea that a simple pollen allergy could be so debilitating if not treated properly.
Exactly, I posted this so people could agree or disagree with what I said, and line that up with their own taste and decided if this place seems like a good home for them or not. I still have a ton to learn about in the area, so no one should be taking my findings as conclusive, just ramblings of new transplant.
One additional note I've had to get use to: Judging distance and time. I work less than 20 miles from our new home. In Illinois, this would mean about a 20 minute drive to work. Hell basically anywhere in the heartland you judge distance/miles/time the same. 20 miles = 20 minutes ish. That doesn't work here in Dallas (or most major metros I guess, though Outer chicago was different).
So when I look at the map and see the distance from my home to my work, its nothing. But when I route it and see I have to go down 423, then hit 121, then hit 35, then hit george bush, I'm starting to learn how each road affects my trip. 423 is going to kill me in the morning due to construction. 121 will be smooth sailing up until the 35 ramp (or until the construction around grapevine mills is done and I can just loop around), 35 will take me 10 minutes to travel 1/2 a mile. and George bush will take me a while to get to Las Colinas.
Its just a new way of thinking that I'm growing use to. I've also learned GPS is a must in Dallas, more so than any other city I've been to. I have no clue how people managed this place before GPS was widespread.
We got very, very lost. I moved here some years ago and learned by getting lost... Several times.
Also pay no mind to people challenging your viewpoints. Locals tend to be very hometown loyal and often act with amazement when people from the outside looking in dont view their home/city/suburb the way they do.
Some seem in utter shock. You get used to that reaction over time. I too thought Downtown Dallas was dingy and deserted looking my first time here. And i worked there. The smaller uptown area didn't make it up to me. Not sure why the city planners/managers dont spend a little money spiffing up the rest of it. Progress still seems concentrated in the uptown area.
Oh! Hate the summers here. Glad someone likes it though
Last edited by BLDSoon; 03-29-2015 at 03:26 PM..
Reason: Sp
Not sure why the city planners/managers dont spend a little money spiffing up the rest of it.
Maybe if they could all agree on things...
Quote:
Progress still seems concentrated in the uptown area.
Not true.
Downtown is on an unprecedented upswing not seen in decades...new residential, new retail, hotel conversions, potential high speed rail system, Oak Cliff streetcar system, Forty Five Ten, rumored South Asian Museum, Holocaust Museum expansion, and the renovation of 1401 Elm are bringing downtown out of the grave.
Exactly, I posted this so people could agree or disagree with what I said, and line that up with their own taste and decided if this place seems like a good home for them or not. I still have a ton to learn about in the area, so no one should be taking my findings as conclusive, just ramblings of new transplant.
And it was very well done. Of course people will see things differently than you do (more on that below), but that's because everyone has different priorities and values and whatnot. Along those lines...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pagusas
One additional note I've had to get use to: Judging distance and time. I work less than 20 miles from our new home. In Illinois, this would mean about a 20 minute drive to work. Hell basically anywhere in the heartland you judge distance/miles/time the same. 20 miles = 20 minutes ish. That doesn't work here in Dallas (or most major metros I guess, though Outer chicago was different).
So when I look at the map and see the distance from my home to my work, its nothing. But when I route it and see I have to go down 423, then hit 121, then hit 35, then hit george bush, I'm starting to learn how each road affects my trip. 423 is going to kill me in the morning due to construction. 121 will be smooth sailing up until the 35 ramp (or until the construction around grapevine mills is done and I can just loop around), 35 will take me 10 minutes to travel 1/2 a mile. and George bush will take me a while to get to Las Colinas.
Its just a new way of thinking that I'm growing use to. I've also learned GPS is a must in Dallas, more so than any other city I've been to. I have no clue how people managed this place before GPS was widespread.
Funny thing - I find commute distances to be generally be longer in DFW, but the times to be less than they were in Chicago or other cities (DFW is the fifth metro I've lived in as an adult, but the majority of my time was in Chicago). I find TRAFFIC here to be better than most of those cities, but DRIVERS to be worse (even worse than Boston). Regarding GPS, I find Dallas better than most cities and IMHO Boston was the most difficult to navigate. On commute alone I'd rather drive in DFW than in Chicago (although it would be nice to have decent commuter rail options like Chicago has).
I've also noted many times regarding your "Dallas 15" that I've found the opposite and been underwhelmed with the food scene here relative to similarly sized cities. Granted, I've spent the vast majority of my time away from downtown DFW or the "artsy" areas not too far from there, but comparing these 'burbs to the Chicago burbs it seems far more dominated by chains (again, largely because it's so new compared with the Northeast and upper midwest in terms of development) and with the breadth of ethnic foods found in Chicago or Boston or NY, but not the depth. Again, just my opinion, YMMV.
It's funny, the first place you mentioned in "things you love" was Southlake Town Square, and I'm pretty "meh' about it. Other than Container Store (well, and now Trader Joe's, yay!), there really isn't anyplace there that is particularly useful to us. That said, having that critical mass of shopping nearby is convenient for other items (like attracting TJ's and The Fresh Market along with Central Market, having Lowe's and Home Depot within a short drive, etc.). Again, everyone is different. The Town Square is a well-done "mixed use" area in many ways, and the nearby 'burbs (Keller and Colleyville) have tried to emulate it but largely have not so far.
All that said, my favorite cities in the US are north along the Pacific Coast (SF, Portland and Seattle. Also love Vancouver BC). So you can get an idea where my priorities are and why DFW isn't a good fit for me. That said, it's great to see someone posting a long and detailed list of their likes and dislikes, as it's helpful for someone considering the move.
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, and beat the Cowboys in the playoffs this years, so fitting 
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