Hasa liquid pool chlorine........where to buy in/near North Dallas?

[EDS_]

Originally Posted by jiping

I will stick with tabs and granular. It's not worth the trouble messing with LC every day.

They are working for a reason. Here in TX you have plenty of rain, cheap water and relatively smaller pool. You need high CYA for sunlight protection, and if you do backwash and partial refill from time to time, cya can be maintained at reasonable level.

What tabs and what granular?

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There is no need to mess with LC every day. I add chlorine to a pump/tank rig roughly once every 25 days and very two weeks or so in the summer.

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I don't know what you mean by "high CYA"? With care CYA around 60 ppm in the dead of summer might make sense, salt pools excepted. If by high you mean 90 your pool is a stew pot of nasties you just don't know it unless you are also running very high chlorine levels.

Round numbers.....at 90 ppm CYA you need to run FC at 11 ppm constantly and 35 ppm to shock, 80 ppm CYA 10 and 31 etc. no one runs those numbers for long.


You do make a good point about about stormwater. Rotating in lots of new water does help manage otherwise runaway CYA. We maintain ~100 ppm borate levels so I don't want to rotate in new water.

[Stelletti]

Originally Posted by jiping

I will stick with tabs and granular. It's not worth the trouble messing with LC every day.

They are working for a reason. Here in TX you have plenty of rain, cheap water and relatively smaller pool. You need high CYA for sunlight protection, and if you do backwash and partial refill from time to time, cya can be maintained at reasonable level.

Tabs and granular are totally different. Tabs raise CYA which means you are needing so much more chlorine. Granular adds calcium big time to your pool. Nothing is better than liquid chlorine. Not sure what "trouble" you think it entails. I buy the jubs at Wal Mart from Pool Essentials. Need about $1 worth a day at best. I would suggest reading up on Trouble Free Pool if you have questions.

[EDS_]

Originally Posted by ZilphaCooke

EDS_

Thank you. I am seeking another source of liquid chlorine for my pool. I currently use Walmart & knowingly check the date codes. I also use Trouble Free Pool website for years now.

There is a link for liquid chlorine prices now at TFP. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog...orine-tracker/

And when checking TODAY. In the state of Florida, Ace Hardware will pump chlorine in your own bottles that are for chlorine, 10 gallons for $21.76. Percentage is really good as well.

So is there any sources in the DFW area for pumping liquid chlorine in our own bottles at a lesser price?

And I am not really interested in pinch-a-penny as they are too expensive & if not mistaken you have to purchase their 2.5 gallon bottle.

Thank you.

I just checked Pinch a Penny, what a silly name for a pool store, charges $16.29 per 2.5 gallons of 12.5% chlorine including the jug. Refills are $9.28. That's a pretty sweet deal as they go through about 1,000 gallons per week. So the 12.5% will be close to spec./reality. For me that really matters as I dose by volume.

[EDS_]

Originally Posted by Stelletti

Tabs and granular are totally different. Tabs raise CYA which means you are needing so much more chlorine. Granular adds calcium big time to your pool. Nothing is better than liquid chlorine. Not sure what "trouble" you think it entails. I buy the jubs at Wal Mart from Pool Essentials. Need about $1 worth a day at best. I would suggest reading up on Trouble Free Pool if you have questions.

I used to think you LC guys were nuts. And to be fair some of the regulars at TFP are dogmatic and strident. But the LC + acid + baking soda + boric acid in my case deal just works better. Frankly, the only residential chlorine source, "better" is lithium hypochlorite. Between the fact that it's often unavailable and ghastly expensive, I'm not much of a price shopper but spending $400 month on pool chlorine isn't in the cards for me, LH just isn't a player.

[hbdwihdh378y9]

Originally Posted by bigbear63

My home depot still sells the 10% chlorine but it has such little retention value I would ask why? I would recommend a shock powder instead.

Why? To avoid a buildup of cyanuric acid in the water.

[nissan]

Sorry for the OT, but didn't want to bump an old thread. For you folks with chlorine units, if you had to do it again, would you stick with chlorine or go with a salt-water gen pool? Yes, I realize SWG units generate chlorine on-site.

We're building a pool and almost every builder we met with said to stay away from SWG and go with UV/Ozone. Most cited salt's corrosive properties (no denying that), but is it really that bad? UV/Ozone sounds like smoke and mirrors and a majority of people on troublefreepool forums say the same. Not sure who to believe (maybe people on forums aren't up with the latest tech?). Curious on thoughts here or feel free to DM me as this is OT.

[EDS_]

Originally Posted by nissan

Sorry for the OT, but didn't want to bump an old thread. For you folks with chlorine units, if you had to do it again, would you stick with chlorine or go with a salt-water gen pool? Yes, I realize SWG units generate chlorine on-site.

We're building a pool and almost every builder we met with said to stay away from SWG and go with UV/Ozone. Most cited salt's corrosive properties (no denying that), but is it really that bad? UV/Ozone sounds like smoke and mirrors and a majority of people on troublefreepool forums say the same. Not sure who to believe (maybe people on forums aren't up with the latest tech?). Curious on thoughts here or feel free to DM me as this is OT.

Keep in mind I'm biasing all this against the backdrop that keeping a pool safe and looking good in DFW is tough and having had all of those things at one time or another save UV purification:

1). I've had two ozone generators, one currently, I can't tell when the things are working or not other than the little bubbles. My current ozone generator has been turned off for a few years now. Ozone kills nasties for certain my best guess is in the concentrations tolerable in pools ozone does very little.

2). UV purification absolutely works within the context of pools. FWIIW I used to own part of a business that made UV lamps to set, "radiation curable" printing inks. A different application of nearly identical technology if you will. So I have a surface level understanding about germicidal UV lights.

*Assuming proper set up and enough power germicidal UV will kill nearly every bit of all from algae to bacteria to viruses etc. that pass through the light chamber. The combination of UV and chlorine disinfection works really well.

3). Salt chlorinated pools work great within a fairly strict set of boundaries. Including very tight chemical balance parameters and relatively high cyanuric acid levels. The average owner is simply not capable or willing to manage chems. tightly enough. Out of balance pool water kills salt cells prematurely.

A salt pool environment is really tough on soft flagstone and tends to degrade pool equipment early. There's no getting around that.

My real beef with salt pools here is they can yield water that looks good but is buggy, always right on the edge of going bad. The circle is simple........salt pools require fairly high CYA levels. The killer is performing a legit shock/superchlorination at these higher CYA levels more or less never happens....at 70PPM CYA a legit shock would require ~28PPM free chlorine, that's about 6.5 - 1 pound bags of 73% Cal-Hypo in a 20,000 gallon pool.

What most salt pool owners do is "shock" with a 1 pounds bag or just enough to kill off a good bit of the algae so that water looks good but many real nasties and stubborn algae remains looking to repopulate. So another shock will be needed in a few days and all the while the water is less than great.

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If I were building a new pool today I'd:
1). Install a DE type filter and convert from DE to cellulose after the first six or eight weeks.
2). I'd install a UV system for sure.
3). I'd install a legit variable speed pump.
4). I'd buy smartphone and computer control over wifi.
5). I'd use a Stenner EconT pump and tank system for liquid chlorine delivery.
6). I'd try as best as possible to make sure equipment (pump, filter etc.) was set no more than around a foot higher than the surface of the pool.
7). Install something like Diamond Brite instead of real plaster. It's tough to explain how much better the smoother surfaces really are in terms of algae control and overall ease of cleaning/stain avoidance.