My wardrobe needs updating... (looks, full, cheap, clothes)
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I decided I'm going to start buying one new item every week or two and slowly build up my wardrobe over time. I'm going to start with a couple of nice pairs of shoes (at least 1 black and 1 brown pair). I'll buy quality and not spend $50 like I did in the past. Then I'll work on nice flat front pants and button up shirts. I also plan on having clothes tailored for the first time in my life.
Since I plan on getting clothes tailored do I just buy the size closest to what I think I am or do I buy one size bigger since I don't want to get too small and not be able to tailor it?
For dress shirts, you fit your neck size, because you have to button the top button to accommodate a tie. For casual shirts, I think I would fit the shoulders. If the shoulder doesn't fit, the tailor has a harder time. Don't buy a shirt with sleeves that are too short. You can lengthen, but you cannot shorten.
Actually, you might call the tailor and talk to him or her before buying the first shirt. Or, you could buy one, take it to the tailor, and find out if he/she can fit it, and if it is a lot of trouble, and there is a better size for you, you can return it. You can see why it isn't cost effective to take a cheap shirt to a tailor.
I don't know if I mentioned this before, but Lands End shirts tend to fit a bit narrower than some other shirts. I don't know enough about other brands, but I imagine there are other brands that fit the same. You are embarking on a learning experience.
I decided I'm going to start buying one new item every week or two and slowly build up my wardrobe over time. I'm going to start with a couple of nice pairs of shoes (at least 1 black and 1 brown pair). I'll buy quality and not spend $50 like I did in the past. Then I'll work on nice flat front pants and button up shirts. I also plan on having clothes tailored for the first time in my life.
Since I plan on getting clothes tailored do I just buy the size closest to what I think I am or do I buy one size bigger since I don't want to get too small and not be able to tailor it?
If you're going to splurge on anything, shoes. I graduated in '08 and got a pair of Allen Edmonds that's my normal shoe, so probably wear that thing three days a week from 2009 to present. I went through three other dress shoes that were my alternates. They maybe last a year and start looking bad. You kick something with your toe and scratch through the 2 millimeters of split leather and that's it. I mean, I really like the Ecco semi-dressy blutcher for being comfortable to walk in for miles but if you need something that will look great for years they are not it. For a $180 shoe (on sale for $70), they've got pathetic uppers. For $70 I can't complain.
Shirts, fit the shoulder. Seam should line up with the top of your shoulder. It's relatively easy to dart the shirt and/or take in the sides so it's less of a parachute. Also pay attention to armhole size and flying squirrel arms. If you dart/take in a shirt with floppy arms... yeah, not a good look. They can cut the sleeves off and slim them down so it's not a HUGE issue but how much do you really want to spend altering a shirt? You're better off going MTM at that point and spending the typically $100ish
That's only a realistic option for a dress shirt, and with the collar not matching the cuffs the end result might look weird. Just return. If clearance cannot be returned, it needs to fit well in the store.
If I go into a Macys or something similar will they be able to measure me so I know what size dress shirts to buy? Or is there a store that is better for this? I have been buying the same size for many, many years. While I am still the same size as then I wonder if I was ever measured correctly?
There's really not much to "measure" for dress shirts.
Neck should fit comfortably but not loosely. You should be able to get a finger or two between the collar and your neck with the top button done, not an entire hand. If you'll never wear the top button buttoned, you can go snugger if that's your preference.
Sleeve length should not restrict your movement or have excessive pooling of fabric along the sleeve
You can have Macy's measure you. They'll simply measure your neck size and then sleeve (center of neck along the shoulder and then down your arm). It really isn't necessary though. It's always a good idea to try on dress shirts anyway. If you want to go into made-to-measure, (modern tailor, proper cloth) they'll have a list of measurements to take.
That said, in many stores the dress shirts are sealed and cannot be tried on there. They, however, usually can be returned.
I think the variance in fit (regular, slim, extra slim, and so on) is the bigger minefield than basic size. My head was spinning the last time I tried on dress shirts, just from the variety in one brand. If a dress shirt is going beneath a buttoned jacket, then a slim guy probably can get away with almost anything. Excess fabric isn't hard to hide.
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