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Old 10-25-2016, 06:34 PM
 
1,478 posts, read 574,706 times
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Close in color/hue of the "true blue" color of blue popular (supposedly) in Europe and Russia among professional men and politicians.


Perry Ellis Portfolio Blue Slim Fit Suit

&

Calvin Klein Blue Exteme Slim Fit Suit


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Slim Fit Suits - Skinny Suits for Men | Men's Wearhouse
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:38 PM
 
Location: State of Transition
80,167 posts, read 73,162,487 times
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Sportcoat--nix. That won't work as well for gaining respect in E Europe. I don't know about Asia. Beware of cleaners in E Europe, though. He should wait until he's in W Europe or Asia for cleaning, if he can, or check with local expats or the US Embassy for referrals.

When he's in E Asia, he should spend some time in Hong Kong, and be measured for a suit. They will keep his measurements on file. He can order a suit from the tailor long-distance anytime, anywhere. He will get, for his money, a suit with an extra pair of pants, and a matching vest. The advantage of a vest is that when you remove your jacket (due to warm weather, say), you're still wearing a suit! You still look professional and authoritative, instead of sloppy. He'll get all that for less than an off-the-rack suit (1 pr. of pants only) in the US. This is what businessmen and lawyers in San Francisco and the Bay Area have always done. Hong Kong tailors have their representatives in SF.

Navy is good. He could get a pair of grey pants to pair with the navy for a little variety, too.
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:48 PM
 
Location: State of Transition
80,167 posts, read 73,162,487 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no kudzu View Post
He did a 3 year post doc in Singapore and I begged him to get some nice suits while he was there or Hong Kong. I know all about Hong Kong tailors. But he was poor and still in very informal clothing. He tells me what he has now is good enough for teaching but he needs to up his game for "the management team". There's lots of politics in academia.
OP, you were right on! Urge him to go to HK or Singapore. He'll be glad he followed your advice, when he gets his suit/s. They could make suggestions for summer-weight suits, too.
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:08 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
14,719 posts, read 45,834,043 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sage 80 View Post
I just noticed that your son travels to Asia. If he ever goes to Hong Kong, he should definitely buy some suits there. Hong Kong tailors are world reknowned for the quality of their suits, and their prices are very low for what you get. Their suits will generally last a lifetime, with proper care.
If he goes to Ukraine, to Kiev, the Vladimir Voronin brand suits are excellent, very reasonably priced. I got mine a few years ago before the wheels came off (or more likely Vicky Newland slashed the tires...). Either that or Hong Kong. Probably in the Czech Republic you can find something similar to Voronin, but I am not as familiar with them. In any case you don't need to try to come up with suits here in the States for him, he can do much better in Eastern Europe or in Asia.

In general for winter darker colors, lighter colors for summer.
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Old 10-27-2016, 09:31 PM
 
Location: Vallejo
14,530 posts, read 16,550,147 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no kudzu View Post
My son is a college professor overseas and has finally admitted he needs help with his wardrobe to get the promotions and advancements he needs. He travels all over eEastern Europe and Asia giving lectures and presentations so he needs something which travels well.

Questions

1- do gentlemen- you professionals- really need suits or would a nice sports jacket and trousers with a tie work
2- is worsted wool still the best all round fabric for good men's clothes?
3- how many pairs of trousers usually come with a suit- it used to be 2
4- how much would a good quality men's suit or jacket and slacks cost?
5- how many wears between cleanings? I know this depends on the wearer but would like some input here.
6- What national stores have good reputations for quality men's clothes with tailor on staff?
7- Which color is more practical - black, gray, navy?
8- what color shoes? black goes with everything I suppose.

I am so pleased he has finally acknowledged he has not been dressing like he should. And I want to help him as much as possible. He will be home for 10 days and we want to get as much done as possible.
Thank you for any help you might offer.
1) Depends entirely on where you work. I almost never wear a suit or tie. Usually slacks and a dress shirt, sport coat or sweater if cold. I still need suits for when I'm in court. Many professionals are fine with khakis and a northface jacket.
2) Worsted is the most common. I wouldn't say it's the best.
3) One is standard. Most people do not wear suits every day. Most suits are sold as separates, so you can just buy another pair of trousers. If you're going to be wearing a suit 20-30 times a year, get two pairs of trousers. If you're going to wear it five times a year, don't bother. Most people fall into the five times a year category.
4) Uh, define good quality. For me, around $800-1,000. Above that price range you can definitely get better suits but get much below that and the quality tends to fall off. Yes, people who know can tell. If you need to project an image of $4,000 suits a $1,000 suit is going to look shabby. For rest of us, a $1,000 suit that fits and is tailored is more than adequate. Eg, a junior associate at a big box law firm in a $1,000 suit that fits is dressing the part. An equity partner trying to impress a big client is not. Buy them on sale. Actual sale, not Jos A. Bank buy one, get two or three free ever day of the year sale. Low quality suits are fused. Fairly good suits (typical of the $800-$1,000 range) will normally be half canvas (Brooks Brothers 1818, for example). Quality suits are fully canvased.
5) As many as possible. I typically dry clean my suits once a year or as needed. If it starts to smell, it needs to be dry cleaned. If spill your lunch on it, it probably needs to be dry cleaned. If you're wearing the suit very heavily (once a week) you'll probably need to do it more often. If you're wearing the same suit more than once a week, you need more suits.
6) Higher end department stores maybe. Most places send out for tailoring beyond simple hemming or sleeve length.
7) Navy. Charcoal and mid/dark grey. If you're wearing a suit to a social event during the day (say a wedding), charcoal looks out of place. In extremely stuffy formal events, grey looks out of place. Navy pretty much works in everything except black tie evening or funerals. Black is for funerals and formal evening wear (black tie). You can get by with charcoal as most people don't go to enough funerals or black tie events.
8) I'd say burgundy these days. Black and navy is kind of out of fashion. It's certainly not a fashion faux pas but it's overly safe. Depends where you'll be wearing the suit though. Black is safer.

Hong Kong. There's one tailor I know of in San Francisco where you can get good made-to-measure suits starting around $1,000. Everyplace else is $2,000 and up. In Hong Kong you can get a fantastic, bespoke suit for $600 if you really work hard at driving the cost up.

Last edited by Malloric; 10-27-2016 at 09:55 PM..
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Old 10-27-2016, 09:37 PM
 
Location: Chapel Hill, N.C.
36,494 posts, read 44,706,285 times
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what kind of alterations will an upscale store offer? He is quite muscular through the shoulders, trim waist, and narrow hips. He says he wants jackets fitted and that is why he was thinking about tailor made. Will alterations department do more than hem sleeve and cuffs?
I want to thank each one of you for your comments. This is really helping.
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Old 10-27-2016, 10:13 PM
 
Location: Vallejo
14,530 posts, read 16,550,147 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no kudzu View Post
what kind of alterations will an upscale store offer? He is quite muscular through the shoulders, trim waist, and narrow hips. He says he wants jackets fitted and that is why he was thinking about tailor made. Will alterations department do more than hem sleeve and cuffs?
I want to thank each one of you for your comments. This is really helping.
Best to ask. Generally you'll need to do a fitting with the tailor for anything more than lopping off the ends of the pants or sleeves, so if they can't do more than that they either don't have an on-site tailor or he or she isn't there. That doesn't mean they won't chalk/pin something even if they don't know what they're doing though.

The jackets can be taken in or out (suppression). Unless he's a fatty, that means taken in. I'm a fatty and still need to have them taken in.
Collar gap and neck gap.
Narrow/taper the sleeves.
Maybe shorten the length of the jacket, although you risk ending up with something looking stupid.
Then you get to the major surgery stuff they almost certainly will not do.
You can take the sleeves off and raise the arm holes or change the pitch of the sleeve to account for posture.

Trousers:
Hemming/tapering the leg ends they can definitely do. If they can't taper, again, no tailor on-site. Take in the waist. Better to buy trousers that fit your hips and are too loose in the waist and then take in the waist. If there is excess fabric, they can do that but it's much more work and often there isn't excess fabric.
Rise (crotch height) is basically not feasible. You're pretty much stuck with it.

Generally, better finding a tailor you trust rather than relying on the store. Usually the salesman will chalk/pin the sleeves or pant legs. It works perfectly for that but for anything else, you're better off going to a tailor yourself and listening to what they say. High end department stores are usually pretty good at putting you in something a tailor can at least work with. Someplace like Macy's you can't count on that. A tailor isn't going to have the conflict of interest of trying to put you in something that won't work to sell it.

I will say, it's much easier to fit off-the-rack now that I'm fatty status. Trying to get something off the rack when I was a 44/32 (jacket/waist) was difficult. Separates help, but you run into how much can you take in a 44" jacket around the stomach before it looks stupid. There's three basic cuts. Regular cuts are usually around a 6" drop, so 44" jacket, 38" waist. Athletic is around an 8/9" drop. Off the rack, even athletic cut was like wearing a sail. You've got about 2" of suppression you can work with on a jacket before you start entering into probably make it look worse than better territory. Similarly with pants you can take the waist in 1", maybe 2". It's less noticeable with pants as you'll be wearing the jacket over them but you start running into problems.

Last edited by Malloric; 10-27-2016 at 10:46 PM..
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Old Today, 08:32 AM
 
Location: Holly Springs, NC
1,427 posts, read 809,460 times
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Don't confuse "suits" with a smart jacket and trousers.

Yes "suits" are very expensive, but a good jacket is not (it can be but it's not necessary). You can mix and match jackets/shirts/trousers.

If he is over there he should observe how his colleagues dress. In general Europeans (I can't speak for Asia) dress well, even on a casual day. I would not trust Nordstrom (or any US store) for European fashion advice. Heck even the TJ (or TK in UK and NL) Maxx in Europe will have a great selection.
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