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Old 08-28-2009, 08:49 PM
Location: Irvine, CA to Keller, TX
4,830 posts, read 6,437,184 times
Reputation: 844


Originally Posted by djdfw View Post
OSB with the RB on it the next time you replace your roof is the way to go. Ridge Vent. Soffet Vents. Add blow in insulation. REPEAT Add blow in insulation. These things will make a great difference, but you also have to weatherproof your house and seal cracks where the AC can leave the house AND if you use incandescent light bulbs, they add much more heat to your house than you realize. Keep the lights to a minimum when not needed. Use the stove vent when cooking to direct heat out of the house. Plant a large tree or two for shade. West/Southwest side of the house is where you want most of the shade trees to be.
We have 12-14 inches of blow in insulation, no radiant barrier and our highest bills during the summer are 350-400. Our house is 3500 sq. ft. Our house is only 2 years old so I am sure that comes in to play but I would love to know what a radiant barrier would do for my bill.
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Old 08-29-2009, 06:48 AM
32,675 posts, read 51,348,816 times
Reputation: 18560
it would help lower it
but there is no definitive way to know how much to know how long it would take to make it cost-effective
there are several good companies out that for energy audits--some of them do a free inspection and if you take the radiant barrier deal they will throw in a free blower test that would probably cost about 250-300 for house your size
that checks for air infiltration
some companies have the heat sensing technology to check for missing insulation areas in side walls and roof lines as well
around here
AC days are the ones that usually hit your pocket book harder than the heating days
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:01 PM
1 posts, read 2,266 times
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Hello,,,the answer is probably 20% to 30% savings on the radiant barrier and proper ventilation.
Moderator cut: invalid link

Last edited by SouthernBelleInUtah; 06-09-2010 at 04:45 PM..
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:22 PM
Location: Fort Worth, TX
369 posts, read 1,670,329 times
Reputation: 164
Originally Posted by loves2read View Post
garage door opener is VERY expensive to run--so having it go up and down 4-5-6 times a day which is normal in most homes adds to KWH costs
A garage door opener can use a maximum of 1,500 watts. That's 1,500 watts in an hour of use.

Even if you open/close it say, ten times per day, and let's assume it's a really slow opener, so it takes 30 seconds to raise, 30 seconds to lower. Those ten cycles will use the 1,500 watts (and most are around 500W, IIRC) for ten minutes, or the equivalent of a 60 watt light bulb for a tick over four hours.

Garage door openers aren't anywhere near as bad electric consumers as are hair dryers, electric water heaters, electric stoves, electric ovens, vacuum cleaners, electric clothes dryers, curling irons, tube televisions, tube computer monitors (like the 21" one I'm using right now...but it looks so good), gazing into the fridge/freezer instead of taking a Polaroid, er, digital picture, leaving the door to the house open, and the like.

Anything which makes the A/C unit run is a killer on your 'lectric bill. It doesn't help we have August temps in June....

My 3K sq. ft. place just gave us a $236 bill. I'm not thrilled, but hey, I'm not sweating to death when inside, either.
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:21 AM
Location: Keller, TX
295 posts, read 879,315 times
Reputation: 57
Love it that my post was revived even though is over 2 years old. Quick update: I had ridge vents installed for $400. Roughly 7 ridge vents and my bill even in the hottest months has not been over $300. It usually averages $70-80 in cooler months and $150-$250 in warmer months. I do keep my thermostat at 78 downstairs and 3 degrees higher upstairs.

thanks all for your great responses!
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