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Old 03-19-2024, 07:00 AM
4,415 posts, read 2,937,322 times
Reputation: 6056


Originally Posted by City Guy997S View Post
Ever consider the used car isn't much cheaper?

I bought a new F150 XL for 24,300 in 2019 (MSRP 31K). I sold it outright to a dealer for 20K 4 yrs/43K miles later.
The only reason that happened is due to record breaking inflation we had post covid. That example doesn't work today.
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Old 04-01-2024, 09:08 PM
Location: The Republic of Molossia
712 posts, read 393,820 times
Reputation: 675
Originally Posted by EDS_ View Post
I get that this post was made several months ago.....

I'd like to have a talk with your mechanic. I own a couple ranches, a couple farms and a small oil business as such I've owned directly or indirectly at least 100, maybe 150, pick-ups. We tried a few Toyotas and Nissans and immediately gave up. When one of our Chevy, Ford of Dodges suffers a breakdown at least we can get parts and for real work (say 15,000 lbs. towing and heavy tongue weights) Toyota and Nissan don't offer anything.
I am surprised you did not have much luck with Toyota pickups because we have a old Toyota that has about 300,000 miles and it has never broke down on us.Its been a great vehicle.We are looking at maybe getting a Tundra and/or Tacoma.Why did you give up on the Toyotas?Toyotas are more reliable in my experience than brands like Ford, Chevy, GMC, or Dodge. I agree with you that you would have to get bigger vehicle if you wanted more than half ton pickup instead of a Tundra.My dad dislikes Ford,Chevy,GMC, and Dodge pickups and will only buy Toyota pickups for whatever reason.
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Old 04-03-2024, 03:13 PM
Location: Eastern Washington
17,211 posts, read 57,047,755 times
Reputation: 18564
Originally Posted by harry chickpea View Post
The cost of anything approaching new, plus associated costs, scares me. When I bought my 95 van back in 2000, I expected to pay an amount equal to what I paid to bring it into tip-top shape including a new paint job and some conversion into something I could use camping. 23 years later, and many many miles, I am still driving it. I think it may have a small coolant leak in the head gasket, but as long as it doesn't blow, I can live with that for a while longer.

All of the electronics in new vehicles? When dealing with computers and consumer electronics, the common axiom is that at three years it is junk. Maybe the electronics in cars are more robust, but after owning a Honda Accord that stalled me out in heavy traffic because of an overheated computer, I'm dubious.
You know this Harry, but a coolant leak from a head gasket *can* in some circumstances contaminate the lube oil with glycol, if you run for any real time with glycol contaminated oil, you can wipe out main and rod bearings. Just depends on where the leak is exactly, if it's leaking into a combustion chamber, usually it does not contaminate the oil badly, although my one real world experience with this had the car quite low on coolant after only a few miles, if it's leaking to the outside of the engine, it's just a nuisance. Of course, a failing head gasket will get worse over time and to have a vehicle you can count on, replacing the head gaskets at least is the only way I know to get there. I know you know that, but posting for the benefit of people reading who might not realize this.

If the bottom end is still good, and most American V-8 engine bottom ends do last a long time, you could yank the heads, have a valve job done with new valve guide seals, grind or replace the valves depending on condition, put it back together with quality gaskets, and be ready for hundreds of thousands more miles. You can send the heads to a machine shop with the valve guide seals and they can assemble all this while you are meticulously cleaning the gasket surface of the block. Carburetor and distributor, if present, can go to specialist shops for refurbishment as well. "...While you're in there..."

There are various "nostrums" available in parts stores that claim to fix head gasket leaks or even cracked heads. The ones where you drain out the antifreeze, run the stuff in the engine with plain water, then cool down, drain that stuff out and let it dry a few days - these are a bit more believable than the stuff you just dump into the coolant and hope it will somehow "find" the leak. But I'm not a big believer in any of this, even if it does plug the leak for the time being, I don't see it holding up long term.
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