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Keep in mind that many of those 'smallish' shrubs that you can buy in a one gallon pot are itty bitty BABIES, and are a tiny fraction of their full size. Most shrubs grow OUT to become wider than tall, and as it grows, it will quickly outgrow that narrow strip. Even 'dwarf' varieties will quickly outgrow this area.
Please don't listen to anyone who tells you that you can trim it to keep it under control. In the real world, things other than trimming the shrubs take priority, and before you know it, the tiny baby that you planted will have taken over the area. You'll want to keep the lattice as open as possible, as the area under the porch needs to have good ventilation. Also keep in mind that shrubs can grow monstrous roots that can buckle your sidewalk. They are TOUGH little buggers, and digging the roots up after they've outgrown their area can be a nightmare of a job...
When I have more time on the computer, I'll come back with some plant ideas that could work in the area. Fun topic
Quote:
Originally Posted by KellyCrash
Now for the area between the walk and the lattice near the steps. That narrow area. I need to measure it, but are there any smallish shrubs I could put there that would work for zone 6? Or should I just skip that idea and just do annuals/perennials there? I was thinking some type of tiny ball looking shrub intermixed with perennials. Ok. Just measured & it's 42 inches in depth. A little over 3ft deep. Again that lattice isn't wood. I don't want anything that will be taller than the porch.
Keep in mind that many of those 'smallish' shrubs that you can buy in a one gallon pot are itty bitty BABIES, and are a tiny fraction of their full size. Most shrubs grow OUT to become wider than tall, and as it grows, it will quickly outgrow that narrow strip. Even 'dwarf' varieties will quickly outgrow this area.
Please don't listen to anyone who tells you that you can trim it to keep it under control. In the real world, things other than trimming the shrubs take priority, and before you know it, the tiny baby that you planted will have taken over the area. You'll want to keep the lattice as open as possible, as the area under the porch needs to have good ventilation. Also keep in mind that shrubs can grow monstrous roots that can buckle your sidewalk. They are TOUGH little buggers, and digging the roots up after they've outgrown their area can be a nightmare of a job...
When I have more time on the computer, I'll come back with some plant ideas that could work in the area. Fun topic
Definitely understand about the roots and to be careful of the walkway. Good advice. I however neither my husband like the looks of overgrown shrubbery. He's pretty meticulous about the yard even tho he's not interested in plants. He just complains because he thinks it means more for him to take care of. It's true.
OK Kelly with a prod from my friend Mr. Bulldogdad I figured out what it is you need first.
Landscape 101: For one garden section look for 1 of the tallest bushes in the group of "likes" you have. The best look is one that is not broad but more upright or conical. Find the place in your garden where they will still fit in 10 years by the sizes given on the tags that come with them. This is the anchor to that part of the garden and a similar look can be used in the other sections of garden. This tall shrub/bush would probably work well centered in front of the electric meter (just make sure to place it far enough forward that it isn't touching the meter when full grown. Leave space!
Next find 2 sets of small bushes that stay somewhat mounded and low, no larger than 3 feet when old and unmanicured. Place them in two groups near the taller shrub in slightly different patterns. Odd numbered groups (3 and 5 are the best) tend to look better. Leave room between the groups and the main anchor. If you have different shrubs to either side plant the larger ones in the area going down to the driveway for better symmetry. Leave space!
In the spaces left by your main planting you can fill in perennials and annuals. Generally tallest plants are put to the back and shortest to the front. Tall perennials can be behind small shrubs. Leave space!
Start small and leave space. Don't plan more than the anchor and several bushes to either side of it. If it works for you repeat the plan in a similar way next year for the other side of the house, with the tall one at the far end or centered in front of the porch upright.
The rest of the answer is in blue below:
Quote:
Originally Posted by KellyCrash
Some plants I'm interested in... I compiled this list last year visiting a local nursery and Home Depot. Comments appreciated. I made a list of this stuff and really do not remember what it looks like anymore. I took pictures as well, but don't remember what I did with them.
1. azalea delaware valley white good choice for low shrub (3 foot by 3 foot), has acidic soil needs
2. green lustre japanese holly good height but gets up to 6 feet wide, better for hedges
3. october daphne sedum beautiful for up front but may not do well in less than full sun
4. dwarf alberta spruce good choice for a center anchor shrub at up to 8 feet tall but you will need to leave a minimum of 3 feet space out from its center
5. prairie petite lilac pretty but requires full sun- if enough sun it can be used as a small anchor for another grouping on the right side of the house
6. david austin litchfield angel roses roses like these require care and spraying, and usually need full sun
7. emerald gaiety this is a eunymous and will like the sun conditions, untrimmed it will be about 5ft by 5 ft when grown.
8. liatris fine with sun although prefers a more full sun placement -different varieties have different heights anywhere from 18 inches to 4 feet high for the flower stalk and the leaf clump tends to stay low and not much bigger than a foot across.
9. shasta daisy easy to grow and comes in several varieties try Becky, Snowcap, Little Miss Muffet and keep these towards the front since they are shorter plants.
10. english dwarf boxwood good slow growing green shrubs, grow in little mounds
11. green mountain boxwood could be a low anchor since it slowly reaches up to 5 feet, but is usually used in hedging
12. double knockout rose rosa beautiful and easy to care for roses but will not flower well in less than 5 hours of sun also can get bigger than the official numbers-mine get taller than 5 feet with spring pruning and are at least 4 feet wide
13. lily turf / liriope low growing and grassy looking great for erosion and loves the lower amounts of sun conditions
14. day lilies less blooms with less sunlight but half day is usually good enough -many varieties and heights some bloom longer than others
Quote:
Originally Posted by KellyCrash
Designing a garden is so beyond me. I read that link to the landscaping article on about.com and was really just left with scratching my head even more confused/lost than when I started. I know what I like. I know the basics. But other than the practical stuff like figuring out the sunlight and which plants thrive in which light, etc. It's all lost on me. If you put plants in front of me I wouldn't know their names 'cept for some of the more common ones.
I like the advice about getting the beds ready first and then buying the plants. I could buy them over time and not have such an overwhelming project to do all at once. YES! The smartest way it to learn your plants a few at a time. It costs less in the long run and you get to know them like an expert!
Now for the area between the walk and the lattice near the steps. That narrow area. I need to measure it, but are there any smallish shrubs I could put there that would work for zone 6? Or should I just skip that idea and just do annuals/perennials there? I was thinking some type of tiny ball looking shrub intermixed with perennials. Ok. Just measured & it's 42 inches in depth. A little over 3ft deep. Again that lattice isn't wood. I don't want anything that will be taller than the porch. Most shrubs would not be a good idea in that narrow an area unless you don't want anything else but a row of shrubs. Mixed perennials staggered, not in a row, would allow you to repaint or fix things and not cover the porch area while keeping that part of the garden pretty. Pick something like shasta daisies and coneflowers or black-eyed susans and put smaller perennials like the shorter shasta daisies and some annuals like begonias or even annual vinca.
OK Kelly with a prod from my friend Mr. Bulldogdad I figured out what it is you need first.
Landscape 101: For one garden section look for 1 of the tallest bushes in the group of "likes" you have. The best look is one that is not broad but more upright or conical. Find the place in your garden where they will still fit in 10 years by the sizes given on the tags that come with them. This is the anchor to that part of the garden and a similar look can be used in the other sections of garden. This tall shrub/bush would probably work well centered in front of the electric meter (just make sure to place it far enough forward that it isn't touching the meter when full grown. Leave space!
Next find 2 sets of small bushes that stay somewhat mounded and low, no larger than 3 feet when old and unmanicured. Place them in two groups near the taller shrub in slightly different patterns. Odd numbered groups (3 and 5 are the best) tend to look better. Leave room between the groups and the main anchor. If you have different shrubs to either side plant the larger ones in the area going down to the driveway for better symmetry. Leave space!
In the spaces left by your main planting you can fill in perennials and annuals. Generally tallest plants are put to the back and shortest to the front. Tall perennials can be behind small shrubs. Leave space!
Start small and leave space. Don't plan more than the anchor and several bushes to either side of it. If it works for you repeat the plan in a similar way next year for the other side of the house, with the tall one at the far end or centered in front of the porch upright.
I like CSW's setup a lot better. The trees in the first one will give you too much shade for your sun-loving flowers, and I think you need the shrub as an anchor in that corner, maybe in the corners formed by the stairs too.
You are in MA. and by a wooded area.......do you have deer that come up to the house? I can never spell it, but I think they eat rhododendrons.....so research plantings that they don't eat...
I don't think smaller ornamental trees will be too shady at all. Something like a Dogwood in that first pic would look great, and you can find evergreens that don't grow to huge sizes. Or plant another flowering tree or shrub in place of the evergreen. The pond in the second picture would also be nice, but I have an ornamental pond in my own yard and it's a lot of upkeep. Plus there might be zoning issues with a pond. Whatever you choose, you should keep in mind that in winter any perennials or annual flowers planted in front will die out, and you'd be left for months with no real visual interest without shrubs. That's why I prefer to plant low shrubs in front as the focal point. You could create an island bed to the side or in the front with a lot of perennials, or add some perennials or grasses among the shrubs.
Deer will sometimes eat rhododendrons, but for the most part leave them alone unless their starving. Only a few times over the years have deer nibbled ours, although what deer will eat does vary by location, I'm in Ct. But our house is very shaded, I wouldn't plant rhododendrons in full sun, there are just too many beautiful sun-loving shrubs to choose from.
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