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I'll make this short.
Whatever #1 is, I'd remove it and replace with mulch.
Take care of that tree.
Why remove it and replace it with mulch? Lily of the Valley is not going to suck nutrients from a tree. In fact, many, many forests have grown quite successfully with Lily of the Valley growing on the forest floor.
I'll make this short.
Whatever #1 is, I'd remove it and replace with mulch.
Take care of that tree.
Very strange advice to remove something you can't identify. It is Lily of the Valley and the way it was planted the original gardener understood that it was not a good mixed garden plant for other perennials but it does absolutely no harm to trees and provides cover in shady situations where very little else will grow. It is often planted on purpose with azaleas, rhododendron and Hosta as an understory/woodland type setting.
I love Lily of the Valley. The scent is heavenly. Just know that it will encroach steadily into the lawn. I would be OK with that, but some might not be. And don't decide to transplant a few of them into your flower beds.
As to the half-dead shrub, I'd cut it near to the ground and see what happens. If it doesn't come back, I'd take it out next spring.
I just thought of something else about Lily of the Valley. I don't know if you have pets, but the plants will have berries later in the year, and they're toxic. I didn't know this at first, and my dogs weren't interested in them, but that might not be true for all pets.
Lily of the valley makes a great shade ground cover, which is probably why it was planted under the tree in the first place. It spreads, but it's easily controlled. If it meanders into your lawn, mow it.
Very strange advice to remove something you can't identify. It is Lily of the Valley and the way it was planted the original gardener understood that it was not a good mixed garden plant for other perennials but it does absolutely no harm to trees and provides cover in shady situations where very little else will grow. It is often planted on purpose with azaleas, rhododendron and Hosta as an understory/woodland type setting.
So it's okay with hostas and ferns and won't take them over? I have a traditional southern garden in front - all azaleas, hostas and ferns. It needs a little pep, though, and I was looking at Lily of the Valley. Once I started reading it was a little discouraging, though.
I'm looking for something to fill in the gaps under a huge old oak tree that drops one million acorns every year, meaning I get to pluck one million baby oaks. It gets tiresome....is Lily somewhat drought tolerant? I have one spot that nothing will grow - no rose, not enough sun. No azalea has hung in there, no hydrangea because not enough water. Our sprinkler system was put in when everything was fairly young and does need to be tweaked (if the repairman ever shows). I wanted something taller than ajuga but I'm fairly tanked on hosta.
So it's okay with hostas and ferns and won't take them over? I have a traditional southern garden in front - all azaleas, hostas and ferns. It needs a little pep, though, and I was looking at Lily of the Valley. Once I started reading it was a little discouraging, though.
I'm looking for something to fill in the gaps under a huge old oak tree that drops one million acorns every year, meaning I get to pluck one million baby oaks. It gets tiresome....is Lily somewhat drought tolerant? I have one spot that nothing will grow - no rose, not enough sun. No azalea has hung in there, no hydrangea because not enough water. Our sprinkler system was put in when everything was fairly young and does need to be tweaked (if the repairman ever shows). I wanted something taller than ajuga but I'm fairly tanked on hosta.
Lily of the Valley seems to be more invasive in cooler gardens (3-5, possibly 6) and less of a problem in warmer areas (in zones 7-8). Of course this is not any kind of guarantee -- if you are a gardener you know there are always exceptions. They prefer some moisture but can be quite drought tolerant once established. When first planted they will need a little more tender care with some regular moisture and additional soil amendments to provide a start. Once the first ones are established they will gradually take off and fill in BUT note (for anyone else thinking about using them) that they do not always stay visible for the entire season much like bleeding hearts. This is one the reasons people inter-plant them with Hosta, Ferns, Ajugas and even Astilbe. In my former garden (zone 5) they stayed green throughout the summer and every once in a while would put out some blooms up to early fall. For the most part they were happy to peak out from between the Hosta and Astilbe they were planted with.
Very few things will grow in very dry shade under old trees since the soil is usually quite compacted. You should always try to provide a layer of soil that has been amended properly for any new plantings or they will look just like the current grass or weeds that are just holding on. Many people create a bit of a raised bed area for plantings to compensate, but make sure that the area immediately around the trunk of the tree(s) is left free so it does not become damaged.
If you don't want any Hosta there are several ferns and and even Hellebore which may be work well in the area under your tree. I have walnuts, hazelnuts, as well as oak babies, to yank all the time (courtesy of the neighborhood squirrels and someone who feeds them the nuts) so I can understand how tiresome it could get. You may still get them even with plants thriving beneath the trees.
Thanks for the info! Maybe I'll just put out some big ol' grabber huge hostas in lime green or something. This garden has zero interest in the fall and winter, but I can't seem to find an evergreen I'm happy with either, and this is a dense shade area. Hostas do well - sometimes you just gotta work with what you have!
A tree trimming/thining to let in dappled light may also be in order.
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