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Please BDD! The poor guy feels bad enough already! Now go to you crate until you can play nice.
That's alright, I'm alrighty resigned that he's right! But BDD...can you explain just why you think it was a hack job? We only used that company because our neighbors were having a tree removed and it was kind of an impulse thing to have them cut off the limb since we'd been talking about it and they were already there. Maybe if I know the signs of a bad hack job I'll do a better job picking a company in the future...and won't lose more trees!
That's alright, I'm alrighty resigned that he's right! But BDD...can you explain just why you think it was a hack job? We only used that company because our neighbors were having a tree removed and it was kind of an impulse thing to have them cut off the limb since we'd been talking about it and they were already there. Maybe if I know the signs of a bad hack job I'll do a better job picking a company in the future...and won't lose more trees!
To me based on your picture it looks like the cut is sloping back toward the tree creating a place where water collects. Thus rot. It also appears that the cut went into the collar of thr tree preventing full healing.
More pics from different angles and I could be of more assistance as well as the other so called experts on here.
I have one black walnut that had carpenter ants and rot in the center of the tree - just about ground level. I took my chainsaw and removed all of the rot. That was many years ago; the tree is over thirty five years old. It continued to thrive even without it's heartwood.
We also have an ornamental cherry that I cemented it's gaping rotten holes and it seems to be doing fine years after. The tree almost looked like it appreciated the cement and grew new growth around it. I just have to remember where I put the cement when it is finally time to saw it up!
But, to the OP; if the weight of your tree is hanging towards your house I would get rid of it - don't take a chance.
That was exactly my thought as soon as I saw the tree. It looked exactly like the what not to do pictures from the lectures on tree care I've been to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TinaMcG
Please BDD! The poor guy feels bad enough already! Now go to you crate until you can play nice.
He was only saying it as bluntly as you would when someone discusses needing only an inch of mulch or no mulch. I wish I could say things so clearly in so few words.
Quote:
Originally Posted by parentologist
Take it down! Here in CT people are taking down big old trees near their houses, for fear they will fall on the house, what with the October snow storm and the damage it wreaked a couple of year ago. Plant something fast-growing for future shade.
Yes! and NO! Yes to take it down, especially so close to a home. This will come down in the next windstorm or hurricane (like Sandy) and if not them the next heavier ice or snow storm. The NO is for fast growing tree replacements. First of all nothing should be planted that close to the house unless is is dwarf variety of tree but secondly, as I think Tina pointed out, fast growing generally is equivalent to just growing a new problem to deal with since the also will be more likely to topple later than a slower growing tree. You can get older tree specimens from a good nursery and the arborist may have some good suggestions for what and where to plant it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogdad
To me based on your picture it looks like the cut is sloping back toward the tree creating a place where water collects. Thus rot. It also appears that the cut went into the collar of thr tree preventing full healing.
More pics from different angles and I could be of more assistance as well as the other so called experts on here.
It should look like this
Exactly like the pics in my classes and field trip. I wouldn't dare do it myself but I now recognize the right way from the wrong. I wish I had known all of this way back when I had dozens of huge trees to deal with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fisheye
I have one black walnut that had carpenter ants and rot in the center of the tree - just about ground level. I took my chainsaw and removed all of the rot. That was many years ago; the tree is over thirty five years old. It continued to thrive even without it's heartwood.
We also have an ornamental cherry that I cemented it's gaping rotten holes and it seems to be doing fine years after. The tree almost looked like it appreciated the cement and grew new growth around it. I just have to remember where I put the cement when it is finally time to saw it up!
But, to the OP; if the weight of your tree is hanging towards your house I would get rid of it - don't take a chance.
The cement may or may not have done much for your tree as I learned with one of my trees. It became carpenter ant infested and had a side that also regrew around an original wound. During a storm event where there was a lot of "straight line wind events" many trees were toppled including on our property and this particular tree started to tilt. Not knowing any better at the time, and not having endless cash reserves, we went with a tree cutter (note I didn't say arborist) to take down the fallen and dangerous looking stuff. He told us he could take it down but it looked OK and healthy enough. Later we began worrying and I called in an arborist who explained that the inside was indeed full of rot, on one half of the tree and that the healthier portion had grown around it BUT that the tree was very much weakened. We had it cut down and were amazed that this otherwise healthy looking tree had more rot than not and was really on it's last legs. Between subsequent training classes and this experience seeing the insides has made me more aware of the problems that are hidden and with being aware I have seen the same in trees that have fallen or had to be taken down all around me.
ParallelJJCat do yourself a big favor and get that consultation. If you aren't sure of a good arborist, and don't know anyone who can make the recommendation, try the local extension office and ask if they have someone who does training for the Master Gardeners or have a list of recommendations. Most do not charge for the consultation. Make sure you ask not only about saving/not saving the tree but, if it must come down, what you can plant - and where - if you want a replacement. He will also know local sources that you may not have direct access to.
Arborists don't charge to come to your home, look at a problem and tell you what they think needs to be done. They only get paid once they have done some work. That can make theirjobs thankless, since some people will have them over, pick their brains, and then hire cheaper help or try to do it themselves.
Good advice, Em, but are you allowed as a master gardener to recommend people to do work? I've seen master gardeners get their wrists slapped just for telling people they should call an arborist. I know, it's crazy, isn't it? But when we can't diagnose a problem because we would need to see it face to face, and we don't make house calls, I think it should be okay to tell people they need a certified arborist. As for giving names of companies or people -- I think I'd get booted if I did that.
Yeah, we have rules that are pretty strictly enforced!
Maybe it is a state thing or the particular university you are working under? We are not allowed to tell people to go to 'so and so' unless asked who we have used, and then it becomes a personal recommendation not as MG, and you have to say that up front. If I am asked as a Master Gardener (like on the hotline) I refer them to a list of arborists in the area that are certified and in good standing and tell them they need a consultation on how to deal with their tree problem. I get the same kind of questions for where to get mulch, compost or even where to buy plants. Usually I am not specific but list a bunch of varied sources from the box store to the local coop and the mom and pop operations. As long as there are no clear preferences to one place of business it should not be an issue.
Why on earth they would give a hand slap to the arborist recommendation is beyond me. If there is any issue with a tree you don't want someone unlicensed (like the "lawn guy" with a chain saw) to be going in and you sure as heck don't want that to come back as "they didn't say I needed an expert!" That's the whole point of the training classes on tree care, pruning and problem ID. It makes you "expert" enough to know it needs an expert in that field and it isn't something minor or cosmetic.
Maybe it is a state thing or the particular university you are working under? We are not allowed to tell people to go to 'so and so' unless asked who we have used, and then it becomes a personal recommendation not as MG, and you have to say that up front. If I am asked as a Master Gardener (like on the hotline) I refer them to a list of arborists in the area that are certified and in good standing and tell them they need a consultation on how to deal with their tree problem. I get the same kind of questions for where to get mulch, compost or even where to buy plants. Usually I am not specific but list a bunch of varied sources from the box store to the local coop and the mom and pop operations. As long as there are no clear preferences to one place of business it should not be an issue.
Why on earth they would give a hand slap to the arborist recommendation is beyond me. If there is any issue with a tree you don't want someone unlicensed (like the "lawn guy" with a chain saw) to be going in and you sure as heck don't want that to come back as "they didn't say I needed an expert!" That's the whole point of the training classes on tree care, pruning and problem ID. It makes you "expert" enough to know it needs an expert in that field and it isn't something minor or cosmetic.
I know. I just whisper sometimes. I'm talking about on the hotline, though, and we can't give personal recommendations while on the hotline. I can tell people what I've done about certain problems, and I can sneak in that I had to break down and call a certified arborist, but that is as far as I can go.
The cement may or may not have done much for your tree as I learned with one of my trees. It became carpenter ant infested and had a side that also regrew around an original wound. During a storm event where there was a lot of "straight line wind events" many trees were toppled including on our property and this particular tree started to tilt. Not knowing any better at the time, and not having endless cash reserves, we went with a tree cutter (note I didn't say arborist) to take down the fallen and dangerous looking stuff. He told us he could take it down but it looked OK and healthy enough. Later we began worrying and I called in an arborist who explained that the inside was indeed full of rot, on one half of the tree and that the healthier portion had grown around it BUT that the tree was very much weakened. We had it cut down and were amazed that this otherwise healthy looking tree had more rot than not and was really on it's last legs. Between subsequent training classes and this experience seeing the insides has made me more aware of the problems that are hidden and with being aware I have seen the same in trees that have fallen or had to be taken down all around me.
You might be right about the cement - but it has been a good decade and the tree is still alive. But it still has plenty of dead and open holes.
As far as the Black Walnut: That is still alive after a good decade. It still has some rot - but is still growing. Here is a picture:
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