Best way to get rid of tree stumps (front yard, spring, plant)
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Sometimes it all depends on leverage. This past year I pulled down a dead, two foot in diameter, rock oak with a six cylinder Dakota pickup. I used a fishing pole to put a line over one of the top sturdy limbs. Then I fastened some surveyors line to the fishing line. After I pulled that over; I attached a heavy duty rope to that and secured it around the truck's frame - never around the bumper (they don't make sturdy bumpers today). You can use a towing hitch if you have one. I actually only wanted to get the tree to fall in the right direction. But, when I felt the tree giving, I kept pulling. I pulled the tree down in the right direction and even pulled root ball out the ground.
Many years ago I remember a neighbor that had a towing truck and pulled down several trees for us. He did about the same thing. Except he secured the front bumper of the truck to a sturdy tree and used the power of the winch to pull down the targeted tree with the cable. That would also pull the stump out the ground.
I have pulled many shrubs out the ground with pickups. Of course you have proceed with caution. Some can really give you a good fight and possibly damage the vehicle. Start off with a tug and have an observer stand safely off to the side - not where a flying rope or chain could hit them. An observer can tell you if it is going to come or is holding it's ground. The farther up the limbs; the more force you place on the bush - but many have to be roped or chained at the root ball (the limbs are too flimsy). Sometimes you can unearth one good root and chain or rope that.
Sometimes it all depends on leverage. This past year I pulled down a dead, two foot in diameter, rock oak with a six cylinder Dakota pickup. I used a fishing pole to put a line over one of the top sturdy limbs. Then I fastened some surveyors line to the fishing line. After I pulled that over; I attached a heavy duty rope to that and secured it around the truck's frame - never around the bumper (they don't make sturdy bumpers today). You can use a towing hitch if you have one. I actually only wanted to get the tree to fall in the right direction. But, when I felt the tree giving, I kept pulling. I pulled the tree down in the right direction and even pulled root ball out the ground.
Many years ago I remember a neighbor that had a towing truck and pulled down several trees for us. He did about the same thing. Except he secured the front bumper of the truck to a sturdy tree and used the power of the winch to pull down the targeted tree with the cable. That would also pull the stump out the ground.
I have pulled many shrubs out the ground with pickups. Of course you have proceed with caution. Some can really give you a good fight and possibly damage the vehicle. Start off with a tug and have an observer stand safely off to the side - not where a flying rope or chain could hit them. An observer can tell you if it is going to come or is holding it's ground. The farther up the limbs; the more force you place on the bush - but many have to be roped or chained at the root ball (the limbs are too flimsy). Sometimes you can unearth one good root and chain or rope that.
Just use a one or two ounce sinker on the end of the fishing pole. I don't want anything that can get stuck in the limbs (no hooks). I have also used a bow and arrow - but that could be dangerous (what goes up; comes down). It is safer to stick with the fishing rod. It can be a little tricky trying to get the knots over the limbs - especially when you finally have the larger rope tied to the smaller rope. Be careful that you are not standing directly under tree limbs when you are doing this process - you could snap off a dead limb and that could be fatal. After I get the large, heavy duty, rope over the top; I just put in a slip knot. You also want to make sure you have enough rope so that the tree will not hit your vehicle. I love to buy ropes and chains from garage sales - I have many, sturdy, good long ropes.
If I have a tree that threatens my house or utility lines; I will use more than one rope or chain. I am pretty skilled with a chainsaw - but it is better to be safe than sorry. I always try to get "safety" ropes from the top of the tree to the base of a nearby sturdy tree - so that the tree to be felled cannot hit my house or lines. I have had trees that I had two safety ropes attached and had a third rope that I used a come-a-long on to slowly pull the tree in the right direction. Dead wood and hollow trees can un-expectantly snap or twist.
Working with trees and chainsaws is dangerous. You always have to take your time and keep in mind what is over your head or how far the tree can reach when it falls. Chainsaws can cut flesh much quicker than they can cut wood. Taking down trees close to your house can be especially dangerous. If you do not feel you have the tools or knowledge or it is an especially dangerous tree; leave it to the professionals. Know your limitations.
One other point on pulling out shrubs: Sometimes you can use a truck to just exert force. Even if you have a large root, holding the shrub in the ground, exerting pressure on that shrub can help you locate that root so that you can cut it (using an axe, saw or whatever). You can also use a good come-a-long with the other end attached to the base of a sturdy tree.
Chain, cable, strap, or good rope and a vehicle. By the time a teenager is off of his cell phone you will have the stump out.
Heh, by the time a teenager is off his cell, we could have world peace!
We have twenty (20!) old pine trees to get rid of on our property. Just got a nice chainsaw to help do the dirty work, and then we'll have twenty stumps. Sigh.
Heh, by the time a teenager is off his cell, we could have world peace!
We have twenty (20!) old pine trees to get rid of on our property. Just got a nice chainsaw to help do the dirty work, and then we'll have twenty stumps. Sigh.
You can just cut off the stumps very low. Hopefully low enough that you can mow over them. Sometimes I do recut them even lower after the frost partially heaves them out the ground. I always save my old chainsaw chains for just stump removal - my property is infested with rocks. When cutting off stumps low, in rocky soil, you will eventually hit rocks. I am very careful to dig down around the stump and remove any rocks - but some rocks are grown right into the wood (which is why I use old chains). Chainsaw chains will still cut great even when you have many teeth missing - as long as you have sharp teeth on both side of the chain. I used to sharpen chains when I owned a lawnmower business my years ago; I still have my saw sharpener.
By cutting the stumps very low and mowing over them you do not have to worry about stump disposal. You just wait a few years until they rot. You could help them rot by drilling deep holes in the top of the stumps.
You can just cut off the stumps very low. Hopefully low enough that you can mow over them. Sometimes I do recut them even lower after the frost partially heaves them out the ground. I always save my old chainsaw chains for just stump removal - my property is infested with rocks. When cutting off stumps low, in rocky soil, you will eventually hit rocks. I am very careful to dig down around the stump and remove any rocks - but some rocks are grown right into the wood (which is why I use old chains). Chainsaw chains will still cut great even when you have many teeth missing - as long as you have sharp teeth on both side of the chain. I used to sharpen chains when I owned a lawnmower business my years ago; I still have my saw sharpener.
By cutting the stumps very low and mowing over them you do not have to worry about stump disposal. You just wait a few years until they rot. You could help them rot by drilling deep holes in the top of the stumps.
We were thinking in that direction, as far as cutting them very low. The soil here is not rocky, but we'll be sure to check around before going at the stumps. We'll do a trial run with the smallest tree - the trunk is about 8' tall, I estimate, though there are small branches that go higher. My FIL "topped" all the trees, so they are even uglier.
We may yet have to have the stumps removed, though, since we're not keeping this property when the in laws pass. If my BIL wants to buy out our half, we'll let him, and HE can take out the stumps or not, as he pleases.
I was cheap but I had a huge oak tree that was in the way when we put a deck on our last house. I used to water the stump with the hose and cover it with dirt or any organic matter that would decompose. As it got softer, I would hack at it with an axe. It was HUGE and it was hard wood, oak so it took five years for it to vanish completely. If you live in a warmer climate without a winter freeze it would take much less than five years for it to rot.
We were thinking in that direction, as far as cutting them very low. The soil here is not rocky, but we'll be sure to check around before going at the stumps. We'll do a trial run with the smallest tree - the trunk is about 8' tall, I estimate, though there are small branches that go higher. My FIL "topped" all the trees, so they are even uglier.
We may yet have to have the stumps removed, though, since we're not keeping this property when the in laws pass. If my BIL wants to buy out our half, we'll let him, and HE can take out the stumps or not, as he pleases.
Even soil will dull your chainsaw. So try to remove most of the dirt. since you don't have rocks; you can dig down around the stumps easier. The lower you go; the better - you might be able cover the stumps with dirt; if you can then cut below the surface. After my stumps have been cut off for a few years; I take a long steel digging bar and poke them. If they are soft; I try to pry them out of the ground. It usually works if they are fairly rotten.
Do not use your chainsaw with the chain dull. It takes more force to cut and will damage even more of the chain. You can get just a file and dress up your teeth yourself. They do make sharpening rigs from $10 or $20 to professional grinders for a few hundred. Or; you can just take your chains to your local hardware or small engines repair man. I have chains, that I saved for stumps, that just have a few of the original teeth left (but I keep those sharp). Be careful working around sharp chains - they will cut you very easily (even when not running on the saw).
Have you tried your local bar? For some reason the town drunk and tree stumps can't coexist together. Place them in general proximity to each other and one's going to lose. Hey, 50% odds are kind of good
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