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The damn ethenol in gas now really gums up the works on small engines.
I will start with riding mower,ethenol dissolved the rubber tip off my needle valve,allowed gas to get in crankcase,lucky it did not completely explode.I placed a shut off valve ahead of carb,shut valve to stop engine and then key.
next problem let gas stay in generator to long,long story short, I tried my carb cleaner with no success.A poster on forum said Gunk carb cleaner would work,squirted it in jets and now o'k.
It also clogged my catalytic converter,back pressure caused check engine light.Garbage!!!
I put Sea Foam directly into my gas cans. No need to remember if I put it in the machine before I shut it down for an extended period of time. Never not once had a problem starting anything that has sat for longer than a month. I also never run anything dry before putting them away for the season. Condensation builds up, and destroys all the inner workings of the carburetor.
I would be inclined to vote with Fisheye in that there is an over abundance of licquid in the combustion chamber slowing the cranking. Either oil or gas which occurred during the installation of the new blades and spindle. JMO
Ya know what!? You are absolutely correct. I'm going through my minds eye on how I would go about changing the blades, never once thinking I would turn the machine on it's side. BUT! that's not to say it wasn't done that way. I'm sure Fisheye has seen way more stupid things than I could ever imagine.
Ya know what!? You are absolutely correct. I'm going through my minds eye on how I would go about changing the blades, never once thinking I would turn the machine on it's side. BUT! that's not to say it wasn't done that way. I'm sure Fisheye has seen way more stupid things than I could ever imagine.
With that: I wholeheartedly apologize Mr Fisheye.
Apology accepted! I could be wrong. All I am suggesting are things that I would check for. Every time I thought I knew it all; I quickly discovered that I did not. Especially with mower owners that were 'handy'. Many times people would have 'simple' problems and turn them into nightmares to solve.
And, yes, the fact the their mower ran after they hit the stump looks like it isn't a flywheel key. But I would not rule it out until I looked; even though belt driven. It would probably be one of the last things I would check. I would start off checking the oil level, then the crankcase vent (after I confirmed that the motor had spark and good fuel). There is probably some correlation between the stump and the current problems - just hard to put a finger on it without really looking at the machine.
Another thought, if the spindle was a complete unit when purchased and the belt pully was larger than the old pully, it could make the belt so tight the engine could be driving the blades while cranking without manually engauging the blades. Stranger things have happened.
Hello! I recently purchased two Snapper riding mowers. The one I plan to use and not scrap is the one I will be discussing SR930 model number 300914BE. After unloading it, I jumped it off with my truck and it ran fine. Pto would not engage. I parked it for the night, did some research and was told to bypass the kill switch mounted to the deck by unplugging it from the motor. I did this. I also had to put the belt back on the rear spindle as it had come off while unloading it. Tried to jump it off and it only turns now, wont start up. Checked for spark, its good. I took air filter off, the flap in the carb opens when on full throttle but doesnt close entirely when the choke is applied I poured a little gas in covered the intake for two seconds while cranking it, still nothing. The motor is a Briggs 400 cc 4 cycle. When I try and crank it some times the belt turns, some times not. The blade engage lever is not engaged though. Thanks in advance!
What ever you unplugged, try plugging it back in and see if it starts. You might have unplugged something important. At work right now so I can't check the model # you posted.
OK..... I had asked a friend of mine if the bolts I took out when I removed the motor shroud needed to go back in to crank it. Hes a pretty good DIY mechanic so I took his word for it. I just went out and put them, cranked instantly. Thanks anyways. Hope this might help someone if they happen to be an idiot like me.
While I have done a lot of my own repairs on cars and small engine for many years this one has me stumped. I have a Sears riding mower, model 502.255070, with 10 HP Tecumseh electric start. Last weekend it ran just fine. Today it cranks just fine (until I ran out the battery) but will not fire even a little.
The gas is full, oil fresh and full, the fuel shutoff is on, there is gas in the bowl, and good spark. The fuse is good, and I had it in neutral, mow lever off, and was sitting on the seat. When I pull the plug, it smells of gas and looks wet. I held the plug to ground and had my wife crank it and got a nice spark (and shock). Are there any other safety sensors/switches that I may have missed, or any other ideas?
my sears mower started doing this when the carburetor started leaking. I couldn't figure out how to stop the leak and eventually put an inline fuel shut off because my Kohler engined model didn't have it.
Here's what I did to get it to start:
-pull the spark plug
-crank the engine (pulsing it twice should be enough) with the plug out to blow out the extra fuel from the cylinder
-dry off the spark plug or replace it with a spare dry one (keep the wet one in storage to dry out for next time)
-install the dry spark plug and the ignition wire
-start the engine.
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I have read so many posts and tried everything
