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Old 05-07-2015, 01:31 PM
 
8,397 posts, read 5,982,446 times
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I moved into my house in late fall/early winter so I haven't dealt with the grass until now since it has been raining. I have weeds everywhere. Mostly dandelions and crabgrass. I also have some brown spots in the front and yellowing in the back yard.

I used Vigoro Weed (by spreader) and Feed to start to feed and green the grass as well as take care of those dandelions. I spot sprayed the Weed be Gone for the crabgrass. I plan to have core aeration done next week and overseed in the fall.

When should I start to see improvements from the weed and feed?

Can I add iron minerals to improve the green color? I really wanted to get the Scott's Fertilizer with 2% iron because it makes the grass very green but I have to take care of these weed first.

Is there any addition things I could be doing?
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:19 AM
 
2,600 posts, read 6,615,020 times
Reputation: 2453
April 2, 2015

Tips for Spring Lawn Care

» Tips for Spring Lawn Care Welcome to Plant Michigan Green
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:34 AM
 
219 posts, read 233,749 times
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I'm not an expert on northern lawns and cool season grasses but I can point you in the right direction.

1) Stop using "weed and feeds". It does not "feed" nor "weed" very well. And you can't apply more of one, without applying more of the other. What if you find you need to apply more Nitrogen but don't need more weed killer on the lawn? If you use more "Weed and Feed" you will overdose the weed killer and kill your lawn. What if you need more Potash? You going to dump a mountain of Weed and Feed on the lawn to get it? It would zap your lawn dead quick. "Weed and Feeds" are marketed to people who don't understand this and think it's a "one stop solution" to lawn care. It's not. Buy a bag of fertilizer and a bottle of liquid selective herbicide. Two different solutions for two different problems.

2) Nothing kills crabgrass. Weed B Gone wont kill it. The way you stop crabgrass is to prevent it from growing (germinating) in the first place. Google "lawn pre emergent" and learn when to apply it in your neck of the woods. The pros use what's called "Dimension". It's a liquid you spray with a pump sprayer all over the yard. Or some pro landscaping places sell it in pellet form you apply just like fertilizer. If you have a John Deere Landscaping (Google it) store near you they sell it there. Home Depot and such will probably have some type of pre emergent too. Also note that preemergent will also stop your overseeding effort. You have to time your pre emergent and overseeding effort just right. You can research on how to do this. Lots of people do it. You are not the only one with this issue

3) Don't add iron. Or at least look all over the bag and see if it contains iron. Look in the fine print, everywhere. If it does not, you can apply if you want. See my note on iron below.

4) There's nothing you can do about the crabgrass that's now growing. It's here to stay for the year. You can squirt it with some Roundup, but that will kill the grass around it too. Try to mow often and keep the seedheads from forming on it. Those seed are going in the soil and will sprout next year (this is why you need to use a pre emergent, to stop the endless cycle).

5) Find a "selective herbicide" at Home Depot, Lowes, ACE, etc. I don't know what type of grass you have so I can't recommend anything. Selective herbacides usually say something like "Kills 200 types of weeds!" on it. VERY IMPORTANT. Real the label to see if it's safe to spray on the type of grass you have. Get this wrong and it will kill your whole yard. Also when applying, too little is better that too much. This stuff will kill most of the weeds you have (except crabgrass and a couple others).

6) Get a lab test done on your soil. Google "Texas A&M soil test". You fill out the "homeowner form" dig a hole and get about 2 cups of soil and send it to them. They will run a basic test for $10. They mail a printout telling you the results, what your PH is, what the soil is lacking, what you need to apply and how much to bring the soil up to par. At this point you have no idea what it needs and neither does some fertilizer salesman at Home Depot. Everyone is guessing without a test done. I think you will be shocked to find your soil is not as good as you think. I get mine tested after winter and is always almost depleted of Nitrogen and Phos. This tells me I need to apple fertilizer high in both. You can't get pinpoint accuracy like this with "Weed and Feeds".

7) Brown spots in your yard could be anything. I cant say without a picture. You say it's been raining a lot. Could be fungus, grubs, or a dozen other things...

8) Iron. If the Weed and Feed does not contain iron, what I would do is go to Home Depot and buy what's called "Milorganite". Google what the bag looks like. This is organic fertilizer (low level slow release) made of microbes from the Milwaukee Sewage Treatment plants. Good news, it will green up you yard real nice, you can totally overdose it and it won't burn it up or kill it. Bad news....when it starts to break down (the first week or so) it stinks.

I can go on and on........

Homework for you:

A) Find a "selective herbicide" that won't kill your type of grass and spray your grass. Google around and research to find out.

B) Get a professional lab test done on your soil.

3) If the "weed and feed" does not contain iron, buy some Milorganite from Home Depot or garden center and put that on the lawn. It will green it up after it breaks down (about 2 weeks). This stuff is pretty low in Nitrogen and Phos with 0 Potash. So you could apply monthly if you wanted. It's pretty harmless.

Good luck...
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