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I realize that can be a little expensive, this is a similar weed control that works pretty well: http://amzn.to/2m0eu5Z
Seems that people have trouble finding start fertilizer, this one has free shipping. If you get this, put it down at 3.5 LBs/1000 SF: http://amzn.to/2mApXpw
This is a really good fungicide for you northern/cool season grassers: http://amzn.to/2mAq98e
Here is some marking blue, a good idea to help when spot spraying: http://amzn.to/2mAyOHH
This is the non-ionic surfactant I have been using and it works very well: http://amzn.to/2mtwZx8
I have the flat out best lawn in the area. People always asking me for help. I could go into the business and would but NJ is too much of a regulation pain
Being a Rutger's Master Gardener for 4 years helped
Weed control in the spring. Pre-emergents and hose ends
Deep water every three days if no rain
Mulch cut most of the year
Core aerate every few years
Seed with the best tall fescue I can find second week in Sept (every few years)
Lime (pelitizled as need) late fall
Fertilize fall (lite application of commercial 10-10-10)
I have the flat out best lawn in the area. People always asking me for help. I could go into the business and would but NJ is too much of a regulation pain
Being a Rutger's Master Gardener for 4 years helped
Weed control in the spring. Pre-emergents and hose ends
Deep water every three days if no rain
Mulch cut most of the year
Core aerate every few years
Seed with the best tall fescue I can find second week in Sept (every few years)
Lime (pelitizled as need) late fall
Fertilize fall (lite application of commercial 10-10-10)
I was not a Master Gardner but my co-worker at our local hardware(previous residence) was a Michigan State Master Gardner and gave lectures throughout the county. For years we tried to convince of the highlighted statements, and many other things.
We are always given the statements that
-- my sprinkler company set up the schedule and they know what they are doing
-- we have loose candy soil so it can't compact
On weed control--liquid all the way for post emergent.
Interesting watering every three days....you do that spring, summer, and fall? Does it dry out in between?
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJBoy3
I have the flat out best lawn in the area. People always asking me for help. I could go into the business and would but NJ is too much of a regulation pain
Being a Rutger's Master Gardener for 4 years helped
Weed control in the spring. Pre-emergents and hose ends
Deep water every three days if no rain
Mulch cut most of the year
Core aerate every few years
Seed with the best tall fescue I can find second week in Sept (every few years)
Lime (pelitizled as need) late fall
Fertilize fall (lite application of commercial 10-10-10)
I use Milorganite or Ironite if I want to green up the lawn for a special occasion (like 4th of July). I fertilize my bermudagrass with a 'real' fertilizer in ~May. I have a mulching mower so my monthly clippings provide about as much 'fertilizer' as Milorganite. BTW I don't use Milorganite on my veggie garden - it is safe for plants for human consumption, but it is unappealing to think of the source (no offense to the good-pooing people of Milwaukee).
You are right to not use it on vegetables.
Milorganite could be the source of toxic metals- lead, cadmium, etc.
you can't just burned them off- think what people are throwing into the toilet- and what about cancer patients radioactive isotopes, chemotherapy- not sure if hormones from birth control survive in milorganite
Been following this tall fescue lawn care program for years now and it has provided me the best lawn on the block, even in the entire neighborhood.
People are always asking me "How do you manage to get your lawn to look so good?" It really doesn't take much work, just the approach is what is important. Be sure to have your soil tested.
- Crabgrass preventer in the spring (Lesco Dimension with no nitrogen fertilizer 0-0-7), repeat 3 months later
- Fertilize with Milorganite (organic approach to feed the soil as synthetic only feeds the plant) or apply Orgro to the lawn once a year for even better results
- 1" of rain per week (all the same time instead of spread out over several days)
- Late June for grub control and various insects, apply Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Granules
- Late Spring begin applying prevent fungicide such as Bayer Advanced Lawn Fungus Control Granular
- Spot treat weeds as needed (hand spray with Gordon Speed Zone Lawn Weed Killer)
- Cut tall fescue grasses 3-4" in height during the late spring/summer/early fall
- Aerate/Dethatch as needed in early fall
- Make the most fertilizer applications in the fall.
- Highly Recommend Bayer Advanced All in One Rose and Flower Care Granules for all your roses, flowers, etc. and Bayer Advanced 12 Months Tree and Shrub Protect and Feed Granules for all your shrubs and trees.
I am sure you got all kinds of questions from those lectures.
However, the two below are probably two of the biggest mistakes in lawn care.
Aerating on a regular basis is one of the best things you can do for a long, ahead of fertilizer. I recommend it every fall.
Having the sprinkler company set your watering schedule is...
Too frequent watering leads to a shallow root system and potentially fungus in the summer months.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMANDTHOM
I was not a Master Gardner but my co-worker at our local hardware(previous residence) was a Michigan State Master Gardner and gave lectures throughout the county. For years we tried to convince of the highlighted statements, and many other things.
We are always given the statements that
-- my sprinkler company set up the schedule and they know what they are doing
-- we have loose candy soil so it can't compact
On weed control--liquid all the way for post emergent.
Summer lawn care besides warptering is all about iron. Gives the lawn a deep lush green color without all the unnecessary top growth.
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