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I don't know about Milorgranite, other than what I've read about the metals (folk lore or not).
I use Alfalfa Meal and Soybean Meal on my yard and it really seems to work quite well. Especially the soybean meal for new grass seeds and greening it all up. About the only chemical I use is Caravan G to wipe out the bad bugs and fungus/disease. Movin', I presume you're in the DC MSA? If so, Loudoun Milling on Rte. 7 past Leesburg has lots of this stuff for decent prices. So does Southern States down in Manassassas. I have heard that the DC Park Service uses the alfalfa down on the national mall and other monument/park areas around DC.
I wouldn't use it if you paid me. It's known for high concentrations of metals and other contaminants that get flushed into the sewer system.
I call BS! ALL Milwaukee sludge is tested for metals and by federal law can't be high in metals and be distributed off site or sold or they violate their NPDES permitting.
Been about 3 weeks in my lawn. We had some heavy rain this past week, but went outside to inspect and it's def growing well and nice and green.
My lawn was in rough shape, but I can also see the seed I threw down is sprouting and coming in well too! Downside...the weeds are growing pretty well too.
This lawn was in sad shape due to having 8 large trees overhead. Spots of grass grew in between patches of moss! Trees are gone, the grass is finally seeing sun and actually starting to grow and fill in!
I call BS! ALL Milwaukee sludge is tested for metals and by federal law can't be high in metals and be distributed off site or sold or they violate their NPDES permitting.
For lawns it is slow release, does not need to be watered in, can be dropped at any temperature without risk of burning, safe for animals and kids ... I drop at bag rate every two or three weeks from mid-May until mid -July, when growth slows. Then pick back up in late August/early September for the fall push until the big pause (when you get no more clippings when mowing), hit it with urea (46-0-0) and water that in so that the roots absorb the N for winter. I know people who apply weekly or double bag rate in the fall to prep it for winter (and are mowing every three days).
Come spring, other lawns are brown and thin, ours is green and thick. Also the only green lawn during high-heat weeks with far less irrigation (once-a-week, about an inch compared to neighbors who run every other day all spring-summer-fall). Downside is need to mow more frequently May into July and in the fall (higher soil temps in July-August slows top growth, but I also let the grass get taller in prep for those weeks).
Excellent advice as we seem to follow the same approach. Majority or nearly all nitrogen I apply in the Fall...spring green up is amazing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodburyWoody
Yes, but only on days which end with a "y".
For lawns it is slow release, does not need to be watered in, can be dropped at any temperature without risk of burning, safe for animals and kids ... I drop at bag rate every two or three weeks from mid-May until mid -July, when growth slows. Then pick back up in late August/early September for the fall push until the big pause (when you get no more clippings when mowing), hit it with urea (46-0-0) and water that in so that the roots absorb the N for winter. I know people who apply weekly or double bag rate in the fall to prep it for winter (and are mowing every three days).
Come spring, other lawns are brown and thin, ours is green and thick. Also the only green lawn during high-heat weeks with far less irrigation (once-a-week, about an inch compared to neighbors who run every other day all spring-summer-fall). Downside is need to mow more frequently May into July and in the fall (higher soil temps in July-August slows top growth, but I also let the grass get taller in prep for those weeks).
So for applying it to a lawn this time of the year what setting do most people go with in the mid Alantic area on turf type fescue?
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