Need advice on how to prune young Maple Trees (grow, spring, north)
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I have two young maple trees on my property. I am trying to figure out if the lower branches need to be pruned off so as to help train the tree take on a proper healthy structure as it matures. Problem is I don't know how to determine what limbs need to be cut off and I can't really afford to pay a professional to come in to do the job. I'm not 100% sure I need to prune anything at this point. Can somebody give some advice to a newbie? How often do maples need to be pruned? Are there any good internet resources where I could learn more about what I need to do and what I should avoid? Below are some pictures of the two trees in question. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Start by pruning off any dead branches. Then remove any that grow inward or vertically. For appearnace, I would remove the branches below and around the crotch area, especially that one in the last photo that is curving around one right at the crotch. Then do some thinning to suit yourself. Trunks won't grow very taller once a tree reaches that size. Pretty trees!
Always use very sharp loppers or a saw that gives you good control, and always make the cut cleanly and as close to the trunk as possible. Don't leave little stumps along the trunk. You may be pulling little bits of regrowth from the cut areas for a few years.
Finally, and this is important -- do it once the tree is bare and dormant. Now would be the worst time to do it.
Start by pruning off any dead branches. Then remove any that grow inward or vertically. For appearnace, I would remove the branches below and around the crotch area, especially that one in the last photo that is curving around one right at the crotch. Then do some thinning to suit yourself. Trunks won't grow very taller once a tree reaches that size. Pretty trees!
Always use very sharp loppers or a saw that gives you good control, and always make the cut cleanly and as close to the trunk as possible. Don't leave little stumps along the trunk. You may be pulling little bits of regrowth from the cut areas for a few years.
Finally, and this is important -- do it once the tree is bare and dormant. Now would be the worst time to do it.
Great advice as usual Tina, however I must disagree with you on this point. Summer pruning in late August is very effective especially on mature trees and does them no harm at all. One large benefit to Summer pruning is the extra time wounds have to heal as well as healing faster. It also gives you a much better perspective on which branches to cut for a more healthy canopy.
Great advice as usual Tina, however I must disagree with you on this point. Summer pruning in late August is very effective especially on mature trees and does them no harm at all. One large benefit to Summer pruning is the extra time wounds have to heal as well as healing faster. It also gives you a much better perspective on which branches to cut for a more healthy canopy.
Thanks, BDD, and I defer to your greater wisdom. Still, if it were my tree, I'd do it in March before it leafs out and I could still see the branching.
I forgot to mention to the OP -- prune off crossing branches that are rubbing and creating wounds in the bark.
Great advice as usual Tina, however I must disagree with you on this point. Summer pruning in late August is very effective especially on mature trees and does them no harm at all. One large benefit to Summer pruning is the extra time wounds have to heal as well as healing faster. It also gives you a much better perspective on which branches to cut for a more healthy canopy.
I agree with BD.
I confess, I am a maple tree pruner. During my limited pruning adventures, I found out the hard way that in Fall and late winter/Spring...pruning can cause maples to bleed a lot of sap. For me this was different than the other trees I've pruned (fruit trees and evergreens). For maples, the sap is not running in summer, so it is a good time to prune them.
One thing I'll add about pruning is to make sure you clean the saw/blade. You don't want to introduce any infections into the tree. If you value the tree, you may want to wipe and dry the blade between each cut.
You will also need to check out guidelines for how to cut off a branch etc, and where to cut...(ideally above the collar).
Actually, my real advice is...if it ain't broke don't fix it. If there is no damage on the tree, I would leave it alone.
Also, many maples are headed up to 7 or eight feet (all lower limbs are removed to this height). When removing larger limbs from the trunk, don't get too carried away with trying to make your cut flush with the trunk. Cut at the area where there is a "seam" - where the limb joins the trunk, don't cut inside this. The scar will heal much faster.
If its a Norway maple I would get rid of it,the strain we have here in south west NY grow real fast and are weak and when we have high winds and storms causing much damage to homes and power lines.
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