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so i ran into a little problem with my worx 304.1. i found that the chain wasnt cutting as if it was dull, but it was a pretty new chain. then i saw that i couldnt get things 100% tightened. i replaced the chain hoping for an easy fix but it didnt help and now the chain comes off when i run it. considering the thing is so cheap, im considering just replacing it with another one.
its probably an easy fix but i would rather pay a bit to get right back to cutting.
so i ran into a little problem with my I am also not familary . i found that the chain wasnt cutting as if it was dull, but it was a pretty new chain. then i saw that i couldnt get things 100% tightened. i replaced the chain hoping for an easy fix but it didnt help and now the chain comes off when i run it. considering the thing is so cheap, im considering just replacing it with another one.
its probably an easy fix but i would rather pay a bit to get right back to cutting.
Many of the retail small engine/chainsaw stores can remove one link out or you could do it yourself:
However; why not just run out and buy another new chain? There is one possibility that you should not overlook: see if your oiler is properly working? Chains that are not lubricated will over heat and stretch. I am also not familiar with "This saw features a tool-free chain replacement and auto-tensioning system that eliminates the headaches faced with most other Chainsaws." (quoted from a Walmart ad for the saw). Possibly that system is not functioning correctly; but I do not know.
PS Chainsaw chains will dull very quickly if you hit anything hard, like a nail or stone, it takes but one split second. If you see sparks fly; you chain is now dull. That is why many loggers do not like to cut trees down close to old houses or fence rows. There is a very good chance that there is a hidden nail.
If you do hit something hard; do not try to continue to cut - it only makes the problem of sharpening worse.
so i ran into a little problem with my worx 304.1. i found that the chain wasnt cutting as if it was dull, but it was a pretty new chain. then i saw that i couldnt get things 100% tightened. i replaced the chain hoping for an easy fix but it didnt help and now the chain comes off when i run it. considering the thing is so cheap, im considering just replacing it with another one.
its probably an easy fix but i would rather pay a bit to get right back to cutting.
Most of the new chainsaws come with a "Homeowner" chain installed. These are super safe for inexperienced users, but they are garbage. They practically rub their way through the wood. If that is what you have, or what you get on a new chain saw, go to a chainsaw store and buy a commercial replacement. You will be amazed by the difference, just be careful. Homeowner chains are designed to prevent kickback more than cut wood. Commercial chains are designed more to cut wood than to prevent kickback. I have never had a problem with kickpack, but some people claim they have.
However; why not just run out and buy another new chain? There is one possibility that you should not overlook: see if your oiler is properly working? Chains that are not lubricated will over heat and stretch. I am also not familiar with "This saw features a tool-free chain replacement and auto-tensioning system that eliminates the headaches faced with most other Chainsaws." (quoted from a Walmart ad for the saw). Possibly that system is not functioning correctly; but I do not know.
PS Chainsaw chains will dull very quickly if you hit anything hard, like a nail or stone, it takes but one split second. If you see sparks fly; you chain is now dull. That is why many loggers do not like to cut trees down close to old houses or fence rows. There is a very good chance that there is a hidden nail.
If you do hit something hard; do not try to continue to cut - it only makes the problem of sharpening worse.
i had ordered a handful of chains and i did suspect (like you did) that these chains are a tad too long. so i did order another brand of chain to see if it works better and i am waiting on it to arrive. i will watch your video later and see if i can remove a link. thanks.
i had ordered a handful of chains and i did suspect (like you did) that these chains are a tad too long. so i did order another brand of chain to see if it works better and i am waiting on it to arrive. i will watch your video later and see if i can remove a link. thanks.
Like I said before; I am not familiar with the "tool-free chain replacement and auto-tensioning system". I would want to have a better look at the ratcheting system used by Worx. The chain guards accumulate debris that could, maybe/potentially, interfere with the adjustment system?
Check and make sure your oiler is operating properly. Fill the chain oil reservoir and run your saw wide open close to a smooth barked log. You should see visible signs of oil sprayed on the log. With gas saws we simply fill the chain oil when we fill the fuel tank. With electric saws you have to check you chain oil frequently to know if you have run dry. You should be able to 'guess' about how long your oil will last as you cut more wood. If you ever see smoke coming off the chain/bar - stop and fill your oil. Sometimes you can sense the tank running dry by the chain tightening as the bar heats and expands - but I am not familiar with your system.
Chisel-toothed chains are the sharpest and fastest cutting chains. But they can be the most dangerous as well as they dull the quickest. I would almost hate to recommend any chains today because of anti-kickback features and liability.
As far as removing links from your chains or sharpening old chains; I would find a local small engines shop that you can trust that sharpens chains and will also remove links - it might be easier and cheaper in the long run. Try Google for local dealers and just call and ask. In the 1970's I charged $4 to sharpen a saw and just a few bucks to remove chain links - I presume it is a lot more now. You have to weigh out the cost of a new chain compared to getting a 'professional' sharpening. Of course you can get rigs to sharpen your own chains. When I sold firewood I would sharpen two times in the woods with a file and then one time on my chainsaw grinder to reestablish the proper angle.
Location: Was Midvalley Oregon; Now Eastside Seattle area
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^ I'd say you are wasting your money.
Hints:
keep chain lubed.
Chain should hang from lower bar no more than width of dime's thickness. If it hangs lower you need to tighten chain. Chain should have a slight drag over bar (no powered, switch OFF).
Chain is ALWAYS linked to the bar. Chain is never too loose or too tight when purchased.
The Bar and Gear specifies the number of links of the chain. It is Always correct.
A Chain that is dull when you see shine at the tooth's cutting edge. Hitting dirt or a log that is "dirty" will dull edge.
A chain that is worn (about 3/16" of tooth) due for replacement. A bar can go 2-3-4 chains before replacement, depending on why you are sharpening chain.
Gear should not have wear notches that are deep. Minor notches are OK but means that you should watch the tightness of the chain.
Never twist the bar/chain.
Where long sleeves and long pants if you have a loose chain as the chain will run off the bar and could backlash.
Location: Was Midvalley Oregon; Now Eastside Seattle area
13,060 posts, read 7,497,585 times
Reputation: 9787
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainNJ
so i ran into a little problem with my worx 304.1. i found that the chain wasnt cutting as if it was dull, but it was a pretty new chain. then i saw that i couldnt get things 100% tightened. i replaced the chain hoping for an easy fix but it didnt help and now the chain comes off when i run it. considering the thing is so cheap, im considering just replacing it with another one.
its probably an easy fix but i would rather pay a bit to get right back to cutting.
Your gear is worn and will have a notches in it. The Chain is tooth is falling into the gear and thereby increasing chain slack. The reason why you have gear notches is because you run the chain loose and hot.
YMMV
Your gear is worn and will have a notches in it. The Chain is tooth is falling into the gear and thereby increasing chain slack. The reason why you have gear notches is because you run the chain loose and hot.
YMMV
Maybe you can help? Do the Worx saws have grease fittings in their bars? I forgot to even mention that since I really don't know. If they do; it would be another issue if it was not greased frequently. The bars can cause chain failures if they are not maintained properly. The bearings on the roller-tipped can fail from lack of grease; in some cases it can even cause the bar groove, for the chain, to widen. Bars that have been run hot and dry can also groove in the area where they are subject to the most force.
I agree with you on chain lubrication. Like I said before: With the gas saws we simply fill the chain oil tank when we put in the gas/oil mixture. With the electric saws I can picture that many would overlook the proper grease/oil lubrication.
i always check on the oil level before i start using. its pretty easy to see through the plastic and i generally top it off whenever i start anyway. so i dont think it has to do with running it without oil. i dont know about the bar. i dont recall it seeming damaged. i received the new chain so i will spend some time this weekend looking at it and trying the new chain. thanks for the advice.
considering the price of this chainsaw, i would consider myself ahead of the game even if i had to order a fresh one. its only 100 bucks (with a new bar and chain). ive cut down a bunch of trees with that sucker. would have cost me way more to hire someone for it.
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