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Old 07-06-2019, 08:21 AM
 
Location: Coastal Georgia
39,119 posts, read 48,084,457 times
Reputation: 66565

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One deep watering per week is usually enough.
Perhaps your trees got too much sun.
The cross section of the branches look like they were not getting any water. My best guess is that you overwatered and killed the roots.

Really though, I’ve had the same problem with several plants, and I never knew why. I had two tries for dogwoods, and just lost a rhododendron.

If I were you, I’d give up on the Japanese maple in that spot and try something else. After the 2 dogwoods, I planted an ornamental cherry, and it’s doing fine. In place of the rhododendron I planted a viburnum and it’s doing fine.
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Old 07-06-2019, 08:35 AM
 
2,718 posts, read 937,605 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottc2 View Post
The picture is misleading, these were taken today when I was digging it up and getting rid of it. The mulch wasn't near the tree trunk (I made sure of it all the time).
So over and underwatering- how do you know when to water and how much? Do I buy a soil moisture tester or just use my finger?
This tree was planted a few inches above ground level for drainage reasons so it wasn't too deep. Thanks for your input!
Knowing when and how much to water does take a knack to get really good at but you do need to understand your specific type of soil that is predominantly particular to your specific location. A good nursery nearby should be able to advise regarding watering.

Do you know your soil type, is it mostly clay, sandy or silt, which are the very general three types of soil?

Depending on the soil, it could be beneficial to amend when planting and definitely helps when trying to determine the watering routine.
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Old 07-06-2019, 08:35 AM
 
Location: Living rent free in your head
33,710 posts, read 15,487,322 times
Reputation: 24292
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJBoy3 View Post
Is this out in full sun. I consider trees such as this understory, it does not want to be in full sun. Check into the culture of this plant. Your extension service can help. Also a google search. I see many Japanese maples planted in full sun, they go into decline after a few years.
That's true for most varieties but we have a 10 year old Seiryu lace leaf in our front yard facing west in full sun all day and it's doing great.
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Old 07-06-2019, 12:04 PM
 
1,937 posts, read 634,804 times
Reputation: 4325
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2sleepy View Post
That's true for most varieties but we have a 10 year old Seiryu lace leaf in our front yard facing west in full sun all day and it's doing great.
We have one, too. It gets shade from nearby trees in the morning, but it take the western afternoon sun with no problem.

OP the white stuff in your roots was a fungus. The white looking 'roots' is the fungus plant. Mushrooms are 'flowers' of fungus connected underground to the white plant.

Overwater helped grew the fungus, however, soil solarization is your only alternative to kill it.

https://www.gardensalive.com/product...rden-woes-away

https://www.fresnobee.com/living/hom...e80395652.html
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:47 PM
 
Location: NJ
12,605 posts, read 22,554,508 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YorktownGal View Post
We have one, too. It gets shade from nearby trees in the morning, but it take the western afternoon sun with no problem.

OP the white stuff in your roots was a fungus. The white looking 'roots' is the fungus plant. Mushrooms are 'flowers' of fungus connected underground to the white plant.

Overwater helped grew the fungus, however, soil solarization is your only alternative to kill it.

https://www.gardensalive.com/product...rden-woes-away

https://www.fresnobee.com/living/hom...e80395652.html

Great eye! I hadn't noticed them coming out of the mulch; just like mushrooms
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Old 07-07-2019, 05:40 AM
 
1,453 posts, read 996,745 times
Reputation: 2674
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2sleepy View Post
That's true for most varieties but we have a 10 year old Seiryu lace leaf in our front yard facing west in full sun all day and it's doing great.
Thanks 2sleepy - Acer Palmatum "Seiryu". Interesting variety. Studied culture, it has a good chance of working in southern, NJ.
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Old 07-08-2019, 07:40 AM
 
8 posts, read 1,680 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YorktownGal View Post
I am pretty sure the arborist is correct, it is verticillium wilt. Probably your first tree infected the soil.

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/vertic...les-68040.html

First, I wouldn't put anything there for a full year after I solarization the soil. I would also clean all my equipment, shovel, pruner, etc. with rubbing alcohol and boiling water. Certainly, find a new spot for a Japanese maple.

Second, I'm at least an hour or more north of you and I've never wrapped up my Japanese maple for winter (my Japanese maple was in rough shape at a two-for-one sale in late summer at a big box store).

Only water once a week in drought after the first few months.

Be fussy about where you purchase tree and plants (and as AlexTheCat mentioned - mulch). Fancy and expensive nurseries don't always have healthy plants. Only go where you can trust the merchandise so find a new Japanese tree supplier.

If you really want a Japanese maple, try your backyard with a northern exposure. In the front yard, I would plant tall trees along side a Japanese maple to give it some shade and protection.
Thanks for your reply- it is confusing, I have people saying that full sun is fine, and that it is not fine... I may just have to give up on having a Japanese maple in my front yard and find a different tree that can unquestionably tolerate the sun exposure. I also need to do some research as to where to buy my next tree from- definitely not going back to the same nursery where the 2 previous trees came from.
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Old 07-08-2019, 07:47 AM
 
8 posts, read 1,680 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik4me View Post
Your tree was doomed as it was planted too deep - incorrect planting occurs in 9 out f 10 cases.
It is not always the homeowners fault as on the label it says plant at the same depth as in the container.
Problem is it is already planted too deep in the container, as the re- plant seedlings into a large pot, sometimes just folding bare roots in half as a towel to fit in pot- it is abhorrent!
New roots you see - is the tree’s attempt to survive by growing “ artificial “ roots off of the trunk. It is unnatural roots called advantageous roots- bad sign in a case of a tree- good for some vines, etc. they usually come out of a trunk at 90 degree or so
Btw, the white root does not look like it came from a maple tree- could be a weed?
Root flare
https://www.seattle.gov/trees/images...ing%20hole.JPG
Read on- lots of photos
https://www.clemson.edu/cafls/vincen...root_flare.pdf

In addition- you placed your mulch too close to the trunk’s bark- it should be minimum 6-8” inches of just soil surrounding the trunk- tree roots need air to breathe and exhale- gas exchange in the soil. Mulch should not be deeper than 2-3 inch and 6 “ away from the trunk
Bark need to stay dry- mulch will bring on insects and rodent to eat the bark.
And you added the insult to injury by over watering - flooding the new planting with too much water too often.
Watering once or twice a week deeply - if no rain- would be enough...
The upsetting thing is - even landscapers do it wrong all the time!! They plant the tree too deep, covering the root flare- the tree struggles- and the landscapers come and sell you a new service- “ uncovering root flare and removing girdling roots.
Educate yourself if you want your trees to survive.
Google “tree root flare” and “girdling roots prevention”
If your tree goes into the ground like a telephone pole- it is planted too deep, will struggle and eventually die- some trees sooner, some later. They get disease, some tree variety may last even 5-10 years, but will not look good
If you don’t see a curve before tree “ enters” the soil- the tree is planted incorrectly
https://lmchouston.com/sites/default...RootCollar.jpg

https://www.organicairtsc.com/wp-con...borist-4-1.jpg
I would not use that “ arborist” ever again.
Verticillium sign- a brown ring on a cut branch- I don’t see it on your photos or streaks like on photo below
https://www.bartlett.com/images/tree...palmatum-2.png
Thank you for your reply. This is a pic I took when planting, the top of the root ball was about 4-5 inches above the ground, and I mounded dirt up to the ball.

I would say the mulch was 2-4" away from the trunk but your info is good, I'll definitely pull it back 6-8" from the trunk in the future and ensure it is planted with a visible curve above the soil line.
Lots of good info here and I really appreciate the time you took to post.
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Old 07-08-2019, 07:49 AM
 
8 posts, read 1,680 times
Reputation: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by gentlearts View Post
One deep watering per week is usually enough.
Perhaps your trees got too much sun.
The cross section of the branches look like they were not getting any water. My best guess is that you overwatered and killed the roots.

Really though, I’ve had the same problem with several plants, and I never knew why. I had two tries for dogwoods, and just lost a rhododendron.

If I were you, I’d give up on the Japanese maple in that spot and try something else. After the 2 dogwoods, I planted an ornamental cherry, and it’s doing fine. In place of the rhododendron I planted a viburnum and it’s doing fine.
Totally agree on giving up on the Japanese Maples in this spot. I have a lot to water in my yard, even used a moisture meter a few times a week on this tree and still ended up in this situation. Thanks for your reply!
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Old 07-08-2019, 07:51 AM
 
8 posts, read 1,680 times
Reputation: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickcin View Post
Knowing when and how much to water does take a knack to get really good at but you do need to understand your specific type of soil that is predominantly particular to your specific location. A good nursery nearby should be able to advise regarding watering.

Do you know your soil type, is it mostly clay, sandy or silt, which are the very general three types of soil?

Depending on the soil, it could be beneficial to amend when planting and definitely helps when trying to determine the watering routine.
My soil is clay with sand. We dug out an area 8' diameter and about 3' deep and put new soil (not great garden soil, but decent soil) into this planting spot.
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