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Old 07-08-2019, 07:54 AM
 
8 posts, read 1,676 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YorktownGal View Post
We have one, too. It gets shade from nearby trees in the morning, but it take the western afternoon sun with no problem.

OP the white stuff in your roots was a fungus. The white looking 'roots' is the fungus plant. Mushrooms are 'flowers' of fungus connected underground to the white plant.

Overwater helped grew the fungus, however, soil solarization is your only alternative to kill it.

https://www.gardensalive.com/product...rden-woes-away

https://www.fresnobee.com/living/hom...e80395652.html
Wow, any idea what type of fungus? FYI the second link you sent doesn't load for me but I'd be extremely interested to see if and read up on it. Thanks!
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Old 07-08-2019, 08:33 AM
 
Location: Massachusetts
10,522 posts, read 11,542,941 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2sleepy View Post
That's true for most varieties but we have a 10 year old Seiryu lace leaf in our front yard facing west in full sun all day and it's doing great.
This thread has been interesting to me to say the least.

I have a Japanese Bloodgood Maple in my front yard...similar spot to the OP. Zone 7A i believe. It's in a corner of my front yard that gets full sun from 9AM through 5-6PM.

It's been planted in that spot not for 5 years, and is about 8 feet tall now (originally 4 feet) and appears to be doing quite well. Leaves are healthy and a nice dark red and it gets it water from natural rain mostly (unless we get a drought).

The notion that it may all the sudden start to do poorly concerns me as i love this tree.

I have a few dark red Japanese Laceleafs (unsure actual variety) that are also thriving (to the point i need to trim them) but they are in partial sun
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Old 07-08-2019, 02:46 PM
 
1,688 posts, read 504,141 times
Reputation: 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottc2 View Post
Thank you for your reply. This is a pic I took when planting, the top of the root ball was about 4-5 inches above the ground, and I mounded dirt up to the ball.

I would say the mulch was 2-4" away from the trunk but your info is good, I'll definitely pull it back 6-8" from the trunk in the future and ensure it is planted with a visible curve above the soil line.
Lots of good info here and I really appreciate the time you took to post.
I appreciate, that you seem knowledgeable on how to properly plant a tree. Hope that you have removed the burlap- they are not natural anymore and do not decompose like they used to.

Main concern is that when at the nursery they mechanically dig out maple seedlings and place into a root ball - ready for sale- the soil is piled up on top of root flare and tied with a burlap.
That is where the problem is. If you did not remove the top layer of soil from a root ball to find that root flare and spread the roots out laterally in all directions- you may just have planted the tree too deep, roots may be circled around themselves.
The hole in the ground should not be dug deep as in a bucket shape( shown on the labels- incorrectly), but in a shallow saucer shape with roots spread out laterally.
https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/images/nature3.jpg
https://extension.umd.edu/sites/defa...entals0022.jpg
https://pcdn.columbian.com/wp-conten....jpg-eac68.jpg

I saw with my own eyes that dug roots were too “ long” for the root ball- they folded the roots like a towel in half!!! To fit in a root ball! The tree roots can not move and straighten themselves- they can only grow wider. Girdling each other in the end.
The homeowner has no clue as they are conditioned to plant it as it was planted at the nursery! They afraid to damage the tree and never even question the conditions of the roots.

Please plant the trees correctly- it is ok to lightly shake the dirt off and check the root structure before spreading them out and planting.
If you see the root circled around each other- you have to cut them to give a tree a chance
http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublicatio...47E/FS047E.pdf
One more- do not stake a tree- the rocking wind action needed for a tree to grow an anchoring root- otherwise- the tree feels that it does not need to spend energy growing an anchoring root and it may become a dangerous large tree- falling over eventually and damaging property or lives without that anchoring root.

Last edited by Nik4me; 07-08-2019 at 02:57 PM..
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Old 07-08-2019, 07:30 PM
 
28,236 posts, read 34,825,395 times
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I have a coral bark maple in my back yard, in nearly full shade. It's deliriously happy there. I watered it maybe once a week after planting, but after a couple of months, no more. That was about 3 years ago.

I also have a bloodgood maple in the back yard. It gets mostly full sun. A little filtered in late afternoon. I planted it nearly 20 years ago. It's beautiful every single season. I did not water it after the first couple of weeks as it is planted in an area of the yard that does not get real dry - lots of hosta and underplantings there too.


I've never planted a tree in the spring, only in the fall. Also I have never "winterized" a tree.
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