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Hi All, new to the forum. I am located in US- NJ. I have had 2 japanese maples die on me in one location. The first one was a bloodgood Japanese maple which lasted about 2.5 seasons before the leaves dried up and the bark started peeling off. We pulled that tree out and bought a Coral Bark Japanese maple. I did a lot of research on planting this time just in case I screwed something up last time. This tree was planted in May of 2018. We watered the tree every day- either with the hose or with a soaker hose on a timer. Never gave the tree any fertilizer as I was told it wouldn't need it. It looked pretty good last year. We wrapped it up for the winter, using burlap going about 3/4 of the way up the trunk. We used posts for the burlap giving the tree room to breathe (about a 6" diameter from the tree trunk to the burlap). We unwrapped the tree this year after the cold weather was over and it didn't look good, but not too bad yet. As the weeks went on it just got worse. Leaves shriveling up, the beautiful coral colored bark turning brown. And we had a very mild spring here. Right around the middle of May we realized that it seemed that the tree was dying and I called an aoborist to come out and take a look. He said we did everything right (planting, watering, winterizing) and that the spot these 2 trees were planted in may have fungus (Verticillium Wilt) in the soil and could be the cause of the trees dying.
I removed the tree today and took a number of pictures, one odd thing that I noticed was that there are a good number of strange white soft "roots", for lack of a better word, growing out of the root ball, you can see them in the pictures..
I am hoping that someone can provide me with some insight, as to whether or not I'd be crazy to plant another Japanese maple in this same location... we just want a Japanese Maple tree in our front yard!!!
Just as a backgroud these trees are planted in the front of our house facing the south so they are in the sun all day long.
Please see pictures and let me know if you need additional info, thanks! Can't get the images to display within the thread, unfortunately...
Apparently the roots the plant had when you planted it died. The white stuff is new roots, but not enough to sustain the tree. You should plant trees in late fall or early winter and water them even when the ground might freeze. You should also start with trees havin a lot of soil in big pots or with very large root balls with lots of young roots. Either the material you bought was mistreated or the tree was planted at the wrong time. Maples also prefer slightly acid soil.
Apparently the roots the plant had when you planted it died. The white stuff is new roots, but not enough to sustain the tree. You should plant trees in late fall or early winter and water them even when the ground might freeze. You should also start with trees havin a lot of soil in big pots or with very large root balls with lots of young roots. Either the material you bought was mistreated or the tree was planted at the wrong time. Maples also prefer slightly acid soil.
Good to know. Maybe planted at the exact wrong time (right before the heat of summer) and not enough water. Thanks for the reply.
Not sure why it died but know that a Japanese Coral Bark are hardy trees. We had one in NY that did very well and when moving to Virginia three years ago, I bough one and planted it here and it’s doing fine.
You can plant anytime of the year but in the dead of summer you just need to take more precautions and be more attentive.
I can’t say why you lost that beautiful tree but from the photo, it looks like the mulch was up against the trunk. If so, that could be a cause since it enables fungus and most people kill new plantings by planting them too deep. Better to have the top of the root ball a few inches above the adjacent ground level. Also need to know the percolation of your soil do you not over or under watering. Overwatering is another main reason for trees and plants that don’t survive.
Not sure why it died but know that a Japanese Coral Bark are hardy trees. We had one in NY that did very well and when moving to Virginia three years ago, I bough one and planted it here and it’s doing fine.
You can plant anytime of the year but in the dead of summer you just need to take more precautions and be more attentive.
I can’t say why you lost that beautiful tree but from the photo, it looks like the mulch was up against the trunk. If so, that could be a cause since it enables fungus and most people kill new plantings by planting them too deep. Better to have the top of the root ball a few inches above the adjacent ground level. Also need to know the percolation of your soil do you not over or under watering. Overwatering is another main reason for trees and plants that don’t survive.
The picture is misleading, these were taken today when I was digging it up and getting rid of it. The mulch wasn't near the tree trunk (I made sure of it all the time).
So over and underwatering- how do you know when to water and how much? Do I buy a soil moisture tester or just use my finger?
This tree was planted a few inches above ground level for drainage reasons so it wasn't too deep. Thanks for your input!
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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I lost one this winter, after cutting off dead branches all last fall. Mine was about 8 years old when it started, and it was a disease called Pseudomonus Syringae and started with leaves browning and those branches turning black.
Seeing the inside of your trunk, which looks spongy, I would say root rot from overwatering/poor draining soil.
Is this out in full sun. I consider trees such as this understory, it does not want to be in full sun. Check into the culture of this plant. Your extension service can help. Also a google search. I see many Japanese maples planted in full sun, they go into decline after a few years.
First, I wouldn't put anything there for a full year after I solarization the soil. I would also clean all my equipment, shovel, pruner, etc. with rubbing alcohol and boiling water. Certainly, find a new spot for a Japanese maple.
Second, I'm at least an hour or more north of you and I've never wrapped up my Japanese maple for winter (my Japanese maple was in rough shape at a two-for-one sale in late summer at a big box store).
Only water once a week in drought after the first few months.
Be fussy about where you purchase tree and plants (and as AlexTheCat mentioned - mulch). Fancy and expensive nurseries don't always have healthy plants. Only go where you can trust the merchandise so find a new Japanese tree supplier.
If you really want a Japanese maple, try your backyard with a northern exposure. In the front yard, I would plant tall trees along side a Japanese maple to give it some shade and protection.
Last edited by YorktownGal; 07-05-2019 at 07:06 PM..
Your tree was doomed as it was planted too deep - incorrect planting occurs in 9 out f 10 cases.
It is not always the homeowners fault as on the label it says plant at the same depth as in the container.
Problem is it is already planted too deep in the container, as the re- plant seedlings into a large pot, sometimes just folding bare roots in half as a towel to fit in pot- it is abhorrent!
New roots you see - is the tree’s attempt to survive by growing “ artificial “ roots off of the trunk. It is unnatural roots called advantageous roots- bad sign in a case of a tree- good for some vines, etc. they usually come out of a trunk at 90 degree or so
Btw, the white root does not look like it came from a maple tree- could be a weed?
Root flare https://www.seattle.gov/trees/images...ing%20hole.JPG
Read on- lots of photos https://www.clemson.edu/cafls/vincen...root_flare.pdf
In addition- you placed your mulch too close to the trunk’s bark- it should be minimum 6-8” inches of just soil surrounding the trunk- tree roots need air to breathe and exhale- gas exchange in the soil. Mulch should not be deeper than 2-3 inch and 6 “ away from the trunk
Bark need to stay dry- mulch will bring on insects and rodent to eat the bark.
And you added the insult to injury by over watering - flooding the new planting with too much water too often.
Watering once or twice a week deeply - if no rain- would be enough...
The upsetting thing is - even landscapers do it wrong all the time!! They plant the tree too deep, covering the root flare- the tree struggles- and the landscapers come and sell you a new service- “ uncovering root flare and removing girdling roots.
Educate yourself if you want your trees to survive.
Google “tree root flare” and “girdling roots prevention”
If your tree goes into the ground like a telephone pole- it is planted too deep, will struggle and eventually die- some trees sooner, some later. They get disease, some tree variety may last even 5-10 years, but will not look good
If you don’t see a curve before tree “ enters” the soil- the tree is planted incorrectly https://lmchouston.com/sites/default...RootCollar.jpg
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