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Years ago I saw a neighbor destroy 1/2 of her yard with the stripes. She used a broadcast spreader. I learned a lesson from that and bought a Scott's drop spreader. It takes a bit longer, but it's easier to control/prevent the stripped effect.
Years ago I saw a neighbor destroy 1/2 of her yard with the stripes. She used a broadcast spreader. I learned a lesson from that and bought a Scott's drop spreader. It takes a bit longer, but it's easier to control/prevent the stripped effect.
I dunno - I've never had an issue with broadcast spreader and think a drop spreader would be "riskier" that way.
I always use a much lower setting and end up going over it like 3 times in different directions. Then again, I have sections of my yard measured out and for each section weigh out just the amount needed.
I guess if I had a similar predicament I would do it lightly going from south to north first then do it lightly a second time going from east to west. That way if there was going to be a pattern it could be a double cross-hatch (or plaid-like) pattern which would at least be more interesting looking and fun for kids to play games on. Lawn checkers or chess anyone? Or whatever.
I used a similar product form Scott's. I wasn't thinking there was that much fertilizer in it.
In my master gardener class they said it’s always better to apply products separately. It is because you get less fertilizer and less weed killer when they are blended, and also because each is most effective at different temperatures. Weed killer is best applied earlier, before the ground is warm enough for optimum fertilizer.
We specifically were talking about southern lawns, so northern might be different.
In my master gardener class they said it’s always better to apply products separately. It is because you get less fertilizer and less weed killer when they are blended, and also because each is most effective at different temperatures. Weed killer is best applied earlier, before the ground is warm enough for optimum fertilizer.
We specifically were talking about southern lawns, so northern might be different.
Yes, I don't use the weed and feed products. Many of the granular crabgrass pre-emergent products, however, such as Scotts, Lesco, Ferti-Lome, Pennington, Vigaro, etc. all contain fertilizer. Crabgrass actually isn't my problem. Chickweed and grassy weeds, that I don't know the name of, have become my main issue. The chickweed starts growing really early in the spring and dies by the end of May. The seeds, however, have spread by then to allow it to start growing by next March.
These chemicals, many of which were developed in the lab and are petroleum-based, have allowed farmers and gardeners of every stripe to exercise greater control over the plants they want to grow by enriching the immediate environment and warding off pests. But such benefits haven’t come without environmental costs—namely the wholesale pollution of most of our streams, rivers, ponds, lakes and even coastal areas, as these synthetic chemicals run-off into the nearby waterways.
When the excess nutrients from all the fertilizer we use runs off into our waterways, they cause algae blooms sometimes big enough to make waterways impassable. When the algae die, they sink to the bottom and decompose in a process that removes oxygen from the water. Fish and other aquatic species can’t survive in these so-called “dead zones” and so they die or move on to greener underwater pastures.
Yes, my handiwork and looking for some guidance to prevent in future. Here’s the specifics:
1. New lawn planted this past Oct., location Northeast
2. Applied pre-emergent + fertilizer combo (30-0-3) fert to lawn about a month ago, watered in well with rain
3. Used a Scott’s Turf Builder Mini Broadcast (Rotary) Spreader. Edge guard was off.
4. Measured my yard, weighed fertilizer — it all went down at the recommended weight/square footage … didn’t wing it.
5. Walked up and down passes, making sure the broadcast throw of my current pass slightly overlapped the throw of the previous pass. Mixed results on my spacing.
What went wrong? My guesses:
1. I should have split my passes in half — distributing 1/2 the amount walking in one diagonal direction, then distributed the other 1/2 walking opposite diagonal direction. Criss cross.
2. The stripes are where I walked, a green stripe directly below the spreader right between the wheels. The impeller does not fully clear the wheels, so thinking fert got concentrated in that area. Poor spreader design where fert doesn’t clear the wheels and gets trapped/accumulates in interior spokes of wheels. Results compounded by walking straight lines vs 1/2 load criss cross.
3. Stripes show green potential of lawn — looks to me more fert needed overall to green up pale areas.
What do you think the likely culprit is — do my guesses look on point? This is my first time using the Scotts Spreader. I’m open to returning it and going with another.
Not sure what you're asking actually. Asking about the stripes? the spreader? The fert? What to improve? Anyway - The spreader wouldn't create those stripes like that. Definitely from the mower but kinda odd.
Add some Iron to the lawn. That spreader is fine just make sure you don't overlap too much or walk to far apart from last row. Lawn and Garden work is awesome for its challenges and finding solutions, don't panic. Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueAbiqua
Wow. Next year spell out a message in your lawn and see if Google Earth picks it up.
Pete has the best Stripes I've seen. Talk about seeing it from Space. Whoa!
If anything, your result shows a great need for nitrogen and perhaps micronutrients. The fact that the contrast of green is so great means that you have nutrient depleted soil OR that the soil pH is unfavorable such that nutrients are affected. Sometimes it is worth letting professionals do treatments for a year after which you can ask for advice about doing it yourself. And sometimes professionals are actually cheaper than DIY.
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