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How good are you using a limb lopper and a saw? Dwarf trees of any type can sometime surprise you, especially if you prune incorrectly.
We had 3 different varieties. I kept the trees manageable thru pruning during the spring, summer and dormant seasons. The weeping variety is very vigorous. The other two (fruiting varieties) are less vigorous but as still very vigorous as compared to other fruit trees. We probly had mid-full size trees but I was pretty good with a chain saw.
We especially enjoyed the tree with the 3" fruit. We kept the ground clean by eating fruit and freezing them like blueberries. You have to be on top of the ripening in the ~20 day period.
We bought our trees directly from the nursery farm-retail/wholesaler. Mid-Willamette Valley, Oregon. I worked on this farmland when I was in grade school picking strawberries. Send me the name of the grower.
I love to prune. Just ask my fruit trees
Thanks for sharing. For the specific variety I am thinking. See link in my post above.
It's in SoCal. 99% of mulberries in SoCal are fruitless. I've only seen a small handful fruiting mulberry here in 30 years and I'm in the nursery business. That said, maybe the OP is able to get a fruiting one. That's why I asked.
I have one, only 2 years and I have fruit, not much, just a handful, I ordered mine online.
It only gets 8 - 10 feet tall. As a kid, I raised silk worms so I collected mulberry leaves for their food.. it was fun. As a grown-up, I am only interested in its fruits.
Regarding to avoid planting near foundation, I am thinking planting 3 feet away from the backyard concrete wall. Would that be an issue?
I have 2 small trees in a big container my husband built from reused woods. I leave in an alley so no staining of anything. So far all the fruit is gone, nothing left. The crows pick them too.
This is my variety https://www.pinterest.com/pin/385409680611811725/
I am sick of power-washing the house every year due to the purple stains left from birds who eat the berries off the Mulberry tree in our neighbors yard.
It only gets 8 - 10 feet tall. As a kid, I raised silk worms so I collected mulberry leaves for their food.. it was fun. As a grown-up, I am only interested in its fruits.
Regarding to avoid planting near foundation, I am thinking planting 3 feet away from the backyard concrete wall. Would that be an issue?
Oh, now that I looked up the species, I wouldn't do it. Morus nigra is the Asian mulberry and is an invasive species. Morus rubra is the red mulberry and is the only mulberry tree native to North America. I don't encourage planting species that are non-native when native species are available. If you HAVE to plant it, I would do so in a very large patio pot.
I am sick of power-washing the house every year due to the purple stains left from birds who eat the berries off the Mulberry tree in our neighbors yard.
This will be planted in backyard so no sidewalk or driveway to stain.
I have 2 small trees in a big container my husband built from reused woods. I leave in an alley so no staining of anything. So far all the fruit is gone, nothing left. The crows pick them too.
This is my variety https://www.pinterest.com/pin/385409680611811725/
Nice. I like Raintree nursery. They have a good reputation.
It only gets 8 - 10 feet tall. As a kid, I raised silk worms so I collected mulberry leaves for their food.. it was fun. As a grown-up, I am only interested in its fruits.
Regarding to avoid planting near foundation, I am thinking planting 3 feet away from the backyard concrete wall. Would that be an issue?
Yes, that would be a big issue, 3 feet away is way, way, way too close to any structures. Just because you think a dwarfed mulberry will only get 8 - 10 feet tall doesn't mean its root spread will not get up to 10 to 15 feet long or more.
You can be practically guaranteed that the roots will spread out 10 feet long from the base in all directions, and maybe longer. You can control branch spread above ground by judicious trimming but there's nothing you can do to control root spread underground so you MUST accommodate root spread to protect the rest of your property.
So play it safe and keep your tree a minimum of 15 feet away from any structures or underground pipes, wires, drainage or sprinkler systems, sidewalks, driveways or anything else that can be damaged by roots.
If you can't do that then you should confine it in a large container.
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I plant all of my invasive plants in pots. I have 70 fruit trees for a reason, I suggest you do the same, in case you change your mind in the future.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoisite
Yes, that would be a big issue, 3 feet away is way, way, way too close to any structures. Just because you think a dwarfed mulberry will only get 8 - 10 feet tall doesn't mean its root spread will not get up to 10 to 15 feet long or more.
You can be practically guaranteed that the roots will spread out 10 feet long from the base in all directions, and maybe longer. You can control branch spread above ground by judicious trimming but there's nothing you can do to control root spread underground so you MUST accommodate root spread to protect the rest of your property.
So play it safe and keep your tree a minimum of 15 feet away from any structures or underground pipes, wires, drainage or sprinkler systems, sidewalks, driveways or anything else that can be damaged by roots.
If you can't do that then you should confine it in a large container.
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OK. You guys convinced me to consider planting in a container instead.
How big of a pot? I am thinking building it my own out of 2X4 and plywood. Do I drill holes at bottom for drainage? If so, wouldn't the roots find its way to through the holes to the soil?
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